If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
have to correct my info.ULITMATE COMPOUND did not remove my acrylic lacquer.
i have idea it was 2500 wet sandpaper.
3 coats of dulpi-color must have been just to thin for sanding.
i took this time and waited about 2 weeks to dry.i then skipped sanding all together and just used UC.
it came out beautiful.then followed up with FILL N GLAZE .real nice.
i did not wax as i am going to let it sit for 2 more weeks but shine is great.
SO, BAD INFO ON MY PART THAT UC REMOVED MY CLEARCOAT.
You know, we fully understand that you would come to the conclusion that UC removed the clear coat since it was the last thing you used. The reality is that anything you would use to remove sanding marks is going to remove some paint; there simply is no other way to accomplish that task. Without a doubt, however, the sanding is going to take off more paint than the compound will (unless you're just crazy aggressive with any compound). The real wild card here, though, is just how much paint was laid down. You said you did 3 coats of clear, but you and 5 other guys may not apply equal coats, so the total film build between these different users may be vastly different. With factory paint we can reasonably assume that there is about 2 mils of clear on the paint, which is probably quite a bit more than you put down. Plus, factory clear is a completely different chemistry so that paint is baked at high temp and is fully cured by the time you take delivery of the car. Night and day difference there.
Still, it's nice to see that you stayed with the program and gave it another shot, and got the results you were looking for when everything was said and done.
Michael Stoops
Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.
Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.
yes, it looks fine.dupli-color has nice shine without any sanding.
i did a small spot on door edge from stone chips.primer,
3 coats of base,then 3 coats of clear from DUPLI-COLOR.
i used HAIR DRYER between coats to speed it up as its getting colder here in pa.dont to 50 this morning.
i set the dryer on 750 degrees.believe this, THE CLEARCOAT CAME OUT REAL HARD AND DEEP SHINE.
all in 10 minutes after final coat of clear .
I was wondering if you ended up with haziness or a visible line where the old clearcoat and new clearcoat overlap? I am thinking of doing some touch-up in a few spots using duplicolor aerosol cans and duplicolor clearcoat as well.
I was wondering if you ended up with haziness or a visible line where the old clearcoat and new clearcoat overlap? I am thinking of doing some touch-up in a few spots using duplicolor aerosol cans and duplicolor clearcoat as well.
dupli-color WILL not match your paint perfect.
if you use tape ,it will show a line.yes,YOU WILL SEE WHERE YOU PAINTED AND THE FACTORY CLEARCOAT.
what i did is sand beyond the repair,then used basecoat/clear .carefully tried to NOT overspray area.i then just feathered it .
clear is very hard to remove from areas you never sanded or oversprayed.
its HARD unless you paint the whole section,you will see 2 different shades from new finish to factory finish.
but it looks real good but dont expect it to match the original paint.
if you can do a whole section,it looks better but spot spraying, you will notice it.
i think in that type of touch up i would only apply basecoat as far as covering the spot.
putting it on like 3/4 coats its going to look darker.less coats of base ,it MAY blend in better to original paint.
i am no expert, in fact this was first time in longtime i used spray paint in can.
but it did come out fairly nice.
hair dryer i feel makes clearcoat a lot shiner and harder.
I actually already layed down the base color and it looks good except it doesn't exactly match as you said, but its close enough. I also feathered the edges. I was just wondering if I should use the clear too because I know it will match much better with the clear, but I read a story where the duplicolor clear caused a visible line where it overlapped the old clear. I don't know if they meant a tape line, but I think they meant an area of overlap that forms a line around the repair. I guess my question is whether there was a haziness or discoloration where the two clears overlap. Thanks.
Comment