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Help with first detail/real wash

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  • Help with first detail/real wash

    So as part of my goals to stop being so lazy/igornant about all of the maintenance things in my life, I decided it was time to finally take care of my daily driver car. I am the sap who maybe washes the care but once every 3 months or so (a lazy wash with just some regular car wash) but have put down a large block of time tomorrow to put my car through its first detail to get it back into good shape. I am a complete neophyte to all of this so I want to make sure I have everything right before I start (based on the sticky thread). I've thumbed through various threads but am still a bit confused. I drive a black 2007 Mazda 3.

    So the steps look something like this (all Meg products):

    1. Do a proper wash per the video in the sticky.
    2. Use Claybar kit
    3. Apply scratch 2.0 to micro scratch areas
    4. Use Cleaner wax
    5. Use NXT wax (counts as second coat)?

    Are there any other products to recommend? Is the regular (paste) cleaner wax too aggressive for the first time around? Do I need to add polish anywhere (I've read hand polishing is very labor intensive and I don't necessarily need showroom quality results, but its a black car). Approximately how long will this all take? I figure I have 4 hours or so before the sun becomes an issue. Thanks for any insight/help.

  • #2
    Re: Help with first detail/real wash

    Just an update. I decided I'm overthinking this. I'm cutting out the scratch x, and just using the cleaner wax/nxt combo, focusing on the basics. I'll wait until the reapply to add on the regiment as I learn more about what the acctual issues my car has. I'll update and let you know how it comes out.

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    • #3
      Re: Help with first detail/real wash

      Will you be applying all products by hand ?

      ScratchX 2.0 is a great product for those isolated problems in paint: scratches, blemishes, water marks, which probably a cleaner wax couldn't successfully remove. If however the entire car paint needs a cleaner (swirls, oxidation, dullness) then Ultimate Compound or SwirlX would be your best choices.

      Cleaner waxes work good as quick paint restoration products, especially on daily drivers, but it's wise to put a coat of finishing wax/ sealant for extra protection, like you're gonna do with NxT Tech Wax 2.0 .

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      • #4
        Re: Help with first detail/real wash

        Thanks for the update. Finished washing the car, doing my first clay bar (just the trunk so far) and letting the cleaner wax dry a bit. Want to see how the trunk turns out before I procede. So far so good though (and claying isn't nearly as scary as I thought it would be, actually enjoyed it).

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        • #5
          Sounds good. Cleaner wax and nxt is a great combo but ultimate wax is even better in my experience.

          Colorx is always good for cars a little more neglected like what yours sounds like. It's a bit stronger than the maroon cleaner wax and works really well.
          Tedrow's Detailing
          845-642-1698
          Treat Yourself to that New Car Feeling

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          • #6
            Re: Help with first detail/real wash

            Yeah, ColorX is always good.
            2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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            • #7
              Re: Help with first detail/real wash

              Update: First real setback. After applying some cleaner wax to the hood, it looks like some waterspots are still on there. To fix it I'm assuming I have to clay, re-wash, and then rewax my hood or else have watermarks ingrained in my finished car. The trunk, front and rear bumpers/fenders came out fantastically though. Going to wait until Wednesday (next free day), to finish the rest of the car (sides and roof). Overall surprisingly easy (much more than I expected).

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              • #8
                Re: Help with first detail/real wash

                Originally posted by GreekTrojan View Post
                Update: First real setback. After applying some cleaner wax to the hood, it looks like some waterspots are still on there. To fix it I'm assuming I have to clay, re-wash, and then rewax my hood or else have watermarks ingrained in my finished car. The trunk, front and rear bumpers/fenders came out fantastically though. Going to wait until Wednesday (next free day), to finish the rest of the car (sides and roof). Overall surprisingly easy (much more than I expected).
                For those stubborn water spots, I would do what Greg suggested by using a more aggressive cleaner polish such as ScratchX 2.0 or Ultimate Compound...
                2011 Car Crazy Showcase SEMA Team

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                • #9
                  Re: Help with first detail/real wash

                  No need to re-clay. Claying is done to remove contamimants that are bonded to the surface. So once they are gone, no need to re-clay unless you feel bonded things may be back.

                  But yeah, will just take a stronger cleaner on the spots.
                  2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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                  • #10
                    Re: Help with first detail/real wash

                    Thats good to hear. I thought the cleaner/wax was going to seal in the marks and that Id have to buff it off. Sounds like UC is the way to go here (I assume I apply it per directions after the next wash). Thanks for the help. Now I'll have to meander over to the interior detailing board as I tackle my car piecemeal.

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                    • #11
                      Re: Help with first detail/real wash

                      Well, the marks will still be there, but waxing over wont hurt. You will want to wax after the UC, so just up to you when you feel like it.

                      I never do the interior and exterior the same day anyway...
                      2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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                      • #12
                        Re: Help with first detail/real wash

                        Yes, UC is the way to go. Make sure you apply wax after the UC.

                        Strictly speaking, you should apply pure wax after the UC. If you don't have pure wax, NXT will be fine.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by GreekTrojan:481287
                          Thats good to hear. I thought the cleaner/wax was going to seal in the marks and that Id have to buff it off. Sounds like UC is the way to go here (I assume I apply it per directions after the next wash). Thanks for the help. Now I'll have to meander over to the interior detailing board as I tackle my car piecemeal.
                          When you try the UC make sure to try it in an inconspicuous spot. It is pretty aggressive so you may have a bit of light hazing left if done by hand. Don't let this scare you. Simply follow that spot up with ultimate polish and see if you get the results you like. Then follow that up with your preferred wax/sealant. UC and UP are great products to have and are both very user friendly compared to their professional line counterparts. Oh, and don't forget to show us pics of your ride when you're done!!!

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                          • #14
                            Re: Help with first detail/real wash

                            I'd love to post some pictures but my old phone broke (my only camera) and I'm using a cheapie backup. I'll do my best to dig one up though. Do I need to get some polish too? I'll get the UC but I'm trying to minimize the products I buy (that and I'm afraid that if I buy the polish, I'll end up recleaning/polishing the whole car haha).

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                            • #15
                              Re: Help with first detail/real wash

                              UC works as a polish. I just used it for the first time. It works great at getting out swirl marks. Some tips though: make sure the car's surface is not hot, and use a clean applicator that has no wax residue or anything like that on it or else you will have problems with it gumming up and being difficult to remove. Also, work on only about a 1' to 1.5' square area at a time if you are rubbing out swirls by hand. Go back and forth and side to side instead of in a circular motion. As always, test it in a small area first.

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