• If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Wet Buffing

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Wet Buffing

    I just received the September issue of a major automotive magazine with the initials C and D (not sure if I can say the name here!). They have a how-to section, and this month it's how to polish your car with a rotary and a foam pad, then apply the wax with a DA and a foam pad. They recomend MEG's products and pads as well as Mothers and Griots. The strange thing is that they say to wash the car but don't dry it, then buff it with the rotary and 105 with the pad 'slightly moist'. They say to take the pad off, hose it out and put it back on and continue. When done, they say to wash the car and dry it, then wax it.
    Has anyone ever tried that? I remember the body shop washing my car between compounds when they were taking out wet sanding marks, but I think they dried it before going to the next compound.

  • #2
    Re: Wet Buffing

    I read it as well.

    I would stay with a traditional method. You can leave your car wet and clay it that way. It will work. But then I would dry it before next step (cleaning/ polishing/ waxing).
    Wet pad put under pressure of a high speed circular polisher will create a lot of steam. That's gonna create a negative impact on pad and backing plate. There's already enough heat in that process.

    If you use a rotary buffer you can lightly spray dry pads with M34 Final Inspection to prime them.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Wet Buffing

      That article was apparently one individual's take on the process - we can't say that we agree with the majority of it, including some of the product combination recommendations. There is also mention of heating the surface so as to reflow the paint and fill in swirls and scratches. That may have worked in some cases with old single stage lacquer paint, but it won't work with a modern catalyzed clear coat. The chemistry of these paints simply won't allow that to happen.
      Michael Stoops
      Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

      Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Wet Buffing

        im assuming from the article the 105 is used wet instead of a clay bar? Hey different strokes for different folks. I like the traditional 5 step method

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Wet Buffing

          Originally posted by Michael Stoops View Post
          That article was apparently one individual's take on the process - we can't say that we agree with the majority of it, including some of the product combination recommendations. There is also mention of heating the surface so as to reflow the paint and fill in swirls and scratches. That may have worked in some cases with old single stage lacquer paint, but it won't work with a modern catalyzed clear coat. The chemistry of these paints simply won't allow that to happen.


          I have yet to actually find this article myself...but from what has been posted across various forums (and MY interpretation from these posts), there is a lot of (hmmm, how to say this), not so good information.

          As Michael stated (or eluded to), WAY to much old school thinking.

          My $.02...

          Bill

          Comment

          Your Privacy Choices
          Working...
          X