Porter Cable versus. Orbital Buffer

[Dee]

First I would like to say how happy I am to finally post!!!
My question to the detail experts, is this:
I'm a novice at detailing, however I would like to take my detailing to the "Next" level. I currently have a Ryobi 10' orbital buffer. I use it at least two times a month.

What is the difference between my buffer and the Meguiars PC, and will I see a big difference in the look between the two.

Thanks
Dee

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Porter Cable versus. Orbital Buffer

Originally posted by Dee
First I would like to say how happy I am to finally post!!!

Hi Dee,

Welcome to Meguiar's Online!

My question to the detail experts, is this:
I'm a novice at detailing, however I would like to take my detailing to the "Next" level. I currently have a Ryobi 10' orbital buffer. I use it at least two times a month.

What is the difference between my buffer and the Meguiar's PC, and will I see a big difference in the look between the two.

Thanks
Dee

This question comes up quite often, I'll see about creating a dedicated answer for it as time allows.

I'll give the the answer and if you want to read more, click on the Search Button that can be found in the green horizontal navigation bar that runs across every page and try typing in two groups of words, (two different searches)

Orbital Buffer
Orbital Polisher

And you will find plenty of threads on this subject.

Here's the jist,




A traditional orbital buffer can be used to both apply and remove cleaners, polishes and waxes. It's biggest downfall is because of the typically larger bonnet sizes you cannot effectively polish small areas like the A-Pillars and as such you are limited to large flat panels.



If the one you are looking at is indeed a 10", 11", or 12" orbital polisher, remember that the large bonnets on large polishers like this will **** up a lot of your products.

These style of orbital polishers spin at a fixed speed that is fairly slow. Combine this with their large surface area of contact with the finish and they are not very effective at removing swirls.

In summary, if you're looking for a tool that will apply and remove products for you, you only require it to work on the large flat panels and you're not trying to remove below surface defects such as swirls and scratches then this tool will work fine for you.

If you want to remove more serious defects, then you'll need to move up to the dual action polisher like the G100 as the smaller pads size, higher OPM's, (Oscillations Per Minute), will offer you more cleaning ability, in other words, the ability to remove small amounts of paint in an effort to remove the below surface defects by leveling the upper most surface with the lowest depths of the swirls and scratches.

Hope this helps...

[Scimmia]

Like Mike said, the difference is the power to use abrasive polishes/cleaners. I checked the specs on the Ryobi, .75 Amps, 3200 OPM on a 10 inch pad. G100/PC = 3.7 Amps, up to 6500 OPM on a 6-7 inch pad.

[Dee]

Like Mike said, the difference is the power to use abrasive polishes/cleaners. I checked the specs on the Ryobi, .75 Amps, 3200 OPM on a 10 inch pad. G100/PC = 3.7 Amps, up to 6500 OPM on a 6-7 inch pad.
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Ok remember I'm a novice what does this speed rating mean to me

Can a novice use the porter with damaging the paint, or do I need to look for class to learn how to use the PC.
In addition, I was perusing through some of the posts and I noticed someone stated that the PC can be obtained through Lowes, however you would need to get the pads through Meguiars, is this a viable option or should I stick with the Meguiars unit...
Thanks guys for the help!!!

[Scimmia]

Speed is just orbits per minute (OPM). Up to a certain point, the faster the machine moves, the more work that is being done with each pass. You may be able to so the same kind of paint correction on a lower speed, but it will take a lot longer.

The higher amp rating on the PC (.75 vs 3.7) means that the motor has more power, and won't bog down as easily. I'd bet that it wouldn't take much pressure to bog down the Ryobi, but it takes a pretty significant amout of pressure to slow the PC down.

As for damage, the PC is still a pretty mild machine. It doesn't generate the surface heat that a rotary does, so the risk of burning your paint is pretty minimal. You can induce some hazing if you don't work a polish long enough or you use a cutting pad (Meg's doesn't recommend it with the PC), but as long as you don't drop the machine on the paint, you shouldn't have a problem.

The PC at Lowes (7336) is the same machine that Megs sells, so it's a very viable option. You would just need to get a hook & loop (velcro) backing plate and some pads from Megs or another vender. The advantage to buying the G100 is that it comes with a lifetime warrenty, where as the PC only comes with a 1 year warrenty.

[Dee]

Porter Cable versus. Orbital Buffer

Thanks for the info, I will work on trying to get the G-100 this summer.
You stated that there is possibilty of hazing if the polish is not completely removed. Why does this occur, I would think that once the wax is applied it would remove the haze.
And my final question is, should I use the dealer line of products or should I use the NXT wax and DC#1, and 2.
I recently received my dealers license and I want to do my own detail work as opposed to finding another vendor to parse this out to. Thus, the reasoning behind all of the questions.
Thanks again for all of your help

[Scimmia]

The reason for the possible hazing is that Megs uses diminishing abrasives in their cleaners/polishes. If you don't work a relativly abrasive polish, say #83, long enough, the abrasives don't break down fully, so you don't get the fine polishing action to remove the marks the larger abrasives left. #83 is strong enough that even if you do work it long enough, you still may have to hit it with a less agressive polish like #80 to completely clear up any hazing.

You're probably best off mixing and matching products. #83 and #80 in the Pro line I mentioned above are abrasive cleaners, where DC #1 is a chemical cleaner. DC #2 is a pure polish like #81 or #7 in the Pro line. I'd guess that NXT tech wax is probably the best choice there, it looks good on practically any car.

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by Scimmia
The reason for the possible hazing is that Megs uses diminishing abrasives in their cleaners/polishes. If you don't work a relativly abrasive polish, say #83, long enough, the abrasives don't break down fully, so you don't get the fine polishing action to remove the marks the larger abrasives left. #83 is strong enough that even if you do work it long enough, you still may have to hit it with a less agressive polish like #80 to completely clear up any hazing.

You're probably best off mixing and matching products. #83 and #80 in the Pro line I mentioned above are abrasive cleaners, where DC #1 is a chemical cleaner. DC #2 is a pure polish like #81 or #7 in the Pro line. I'd guess that NXT tech wax is probably the best choice there, it looks good on practically any car.

Well said.

[Dee]

Porter Cable versus. Orbital Buffer

Thank you for the valuable information

[Dee]

Porter Cable versus. Orbital Buffer

OK guys, thanks for all the responses to my questions!!!!!!!!!!!
I just wanted to conclude this thread with the good news!!!!!!!!!!
I just bought the G-100, and I'm so excited I could scream......

Thank you Mike for all of your wisdom, and all of you who have participated in this thread.......

P.S.
This may sound crazy, but my wife gave me permission to take back the watch I got for graduation to pay for the supplies. I figured you can always find a good time piece, but a G-100 is timeless... I know this sound crazy, but you know us car enthusiasts are a different breed

Oh yeah Mike, when are we going to get a detail class in Texas, I would love to attend so I can learn how to really work the machine....
Thanks again