Meguiars n00b

[y2j514]

So as you might have seen in my introduction message - I am new to Meguairs. I was doing some research for the past 3 weeks or so on how to restore the super sexy black glossy finish to my car and decided on Meg's. I have a few questions though:

1) I ordered the clay bar refill (3 clay bars) not the smooth surface kit. How many clay bars should it take to do the whole car?
2)Do I need to do the whole car (I saw somewhere it said only horizontal surfaces need to be done)?
3) I know in the smooth surface kit they provide the quick detailer to use as lube with the clay - I have the ultimate quick detailer, can I used this to lube the surface for the clay?

I'm from montreal and got all my Meg's products at CanadianTire - the ultimate line was 25% off. So I bought everything - which means I have the Ultimate compound and not Swirl X.

4)My car is in decent shape and I am starting to think Ultimate Compound is too agressive - how should I decide between the two?

5) Does anyone know where I can get Swirl-X in montreal? I've checked CanadianTire, Wal-mart and a NAPA.

6) I have a simoniz random orbit polisher - will this accomplish similar results as the DAs that everybody is talking about on these forums?

7) Also are certain pads required for different parts of the process (in terms of materials)? I have 4 or 5 new microfiber pads for my random orbit. I plan on using one for the paint cleaning, another for the polish and another for the wax. Is this ok, or do you need like a polish pad, for polishing, and a microfiber for removing wax and ... etc.

Thanks for the help!

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Meguiars n00b

Welcome to MOL!

So as you might have seen in my introduction message - I am new to Meguairs. I was doing some research for the past 3 weeks or so on how to restore the super sexy black glossy finish to my car and decided on Meg's. I have a few questions though:

1) I ordered the clay bar refill (3 clay bars) not the smooth surface kit. How many clay bars should it take to do the whole car?

Unless the car is heavily contaminated you should be able to use a single bar of clay. Heck, you may be able to use that one bar of clay on multiple cars if they aren't too bad. It really all depends on level of contamination - if you can feel just some light roughness to the paint on bar should be fine, but if it feels like 80 grit sandpaper, you may need more.

2)Do I need to do the whole car (I saw somewhere it said only horizontal surfaces need to be done)?

You do what needs to be done, easy as that. If the horizontal areas feel rougher than the verticals then they have more bonded contaminants. This is common since fallout tends to fall down, not sideways, hence it more heavily impacts the horizontals. But if the verticals feel rough, clay 'em.

3) I know in the smooth surface kit they provide the quick detailer to use as lube with the clay - I have the ultimate quick detailer, can I used this to lube the surface for the clay?

I'm from montreal and got all my Meg's products at CanadianTire - the ultimate line was 25% off. So I bought everything - which means I have the Ultimate compound and not Swirl X.

Ultimate Quik Detailer is not recommended for clay lube as it's too slick and will compromise the effectiveness of the clay. Stick with regular Quik Detailing in the dark red bottle. Also, stick with the Ultimate Compound for your car. GM paints don't tend to be super soft and delicate so SwirlX most likely isn't going to be quite potent enough to get things sorted out for you.

4)My car is in decent shape and I am starting to think Ultimate Compound is too agressive - how should I decide between the two?

Ultimate Compound, while certainly more aggressive than SwirlX, isn't so potent that you need to worry about damage to the paint, especially with the orbital buffer you have. We use UC exclusively in our Saturday Classes unless we know for a fact that the demo car has crazy delicate paint. It has worked beautifully for us across the board, and we never know what kind of car we're going to be working on.

5) Does anyone know where I can get Swirl-X in montreal? I've checked CanadianTire, Wal-mart and a NAPA.

If you really, really, really want it, it's probably going to be an online order for you.

6) I have a simoniz random orbit polisher - will this accomplish similar results as the DAs that everybody is talking about on these forums?

These generally don't have the power needed to correct severe defects, but at least they don't get tired. You have nothing to lose by trying it, but don't be disappointed if it doesn't correct everything. The good news is you say your paint is in pretty decent shape overall, so this might hold you over for a while until you decide to pull the trigger on a proper DA buffer. This light duty tool in conjunction with Ultimate Compound is so incredibly safe that at least you won't have to worry at all about damaging your paint.

7) Also are certain pads required for different parts of the process (in terms of materials)? I have 4 or 5 new microfiber pads for my random orbit. I plan on using one for the paint cleaning, another for the polish and another for the wax. Is this ok, or do you need like a polish pad, for polishing, and a microfiber for removing wax and ... etc.

Thanks for the help!

Pad or bonnet choice on these tools is sort of all over the place as they can vary quite a bit. These tool usually ship with a few different pads, labeled for use with polishes, waxes, etc. If all you have are microfiber bonnets, then using a fresh one for each product is going to be critical as you don't want to mix products on a single pad. But for the defect correction phase with Ultimate Compound you'll probably want to change to a fresh pad a couple of times at least to correct the entire vehicle.

[Blueline]

Re: Meguiars n00b

6) I have a simoniz random orbit polisher - will this accomplish similar results as the DAs that everybody is talking about on these forums?

7) Also are certain pads required for different parts of the process (in terms of materials)? I have 4 or 5 new microfiber pads for my random orbit. I plan on using one for the paint cleaning, another for the polish and another for the wax. Is this ok, or do you need like a polish pad, for polishing, and a microfiber for removing wax and ... etc.

Thanks for the help!

I use a similar polisher, but just for applying ColorX (something like Swirl X) so I can get 'some' polishing action without ruining my elbow. but I take it off by hand. and then apply my final coat of wax by hand and remove it by hand. In my experience my buffer did not take off the ColorX or my wax in a manner that I liked. Maybe it was the pad but I found that removing the product was better by hand. I like what Michael said, the polisher will not correct severe defects, but it doesn't get tired.

[y2j514]

Re: Meguiars n00b

Thanks for the replies! I appologize for my late reply. I couldn't find my post after I posted it - I assumed it needed to be approved by a moderator and waited patiently. After a week I still didnt see it posted and I figured something was up! So I did a search and it was up and had replies from 4-5 days ago. Ooops! :$

As far as that goes, am I right in assuming a moderator has to approve of my post?
Follow up to my questions:

1) I dont believe the car is heavily contaminated, if I run my finger along the paint I feel some contaminants but not anywhere like sandpaper.

2) If I feel like I have the hang of the claying then I guess I will do the whole car - can only help right?

3) Thanks for that information! Really useful - helps me avoid a mistake. I'll go get some QD right away!

4a) So I wanted to get 2 grit guards because I read numerous times it is the way to go, and I couldn't find any locally so I placed an online order. This was before I read your answers, so I figured I'd also order the Swirl X at the same time. So I will have UC and Swirl-X. I'm assuming its worth a try at this point with the Swirl-X first, then if I dont see any results move to UC?

4b) Obviously an abrasive removes some paint. Just out of curiosity, how many applicated of UC can one car take before the clear coat is removed? Is it in the 10s, the 100s, the 1000s?

5) Well I placed an online order, but is there a reason as to why its not available? Weird - I found almost every other product.

6) The car is in pretty great shape, if I give it a quick wash and wax (before learning about all the meguiars products and the double bucket technique) it's a head turner. People are always surprised that its an 2006 when I tell them. So I'll try with my Random Orbit.

7) In terms of using a new pad for each product - are you saying I must dispose of them afterwards? Or can I wash them and reuse them the next time? I was under the impression you could wash and dry microfiber (no laundry softner) and re-use them the next time. Although not said above, I sort of feel like maybe it was implied. Just want to verify.

8NEW!) I noticed a thread from back in 2008 (I think) about people discussing a possible course in Montreal - but the thread just came to a halt without any conclusion. Do you indeed offer courses in Montreal? If so, where can I find information about it?

[wifpd4]

Re: Meguiars n00b

Thanks for the replies! I appologize for my late reply. I couldn't find my post after I posted it - I assumed it needed to be approved by a moderator and waited patiently. After a week I still didnt see it posted and I figured something was up! So I did a search and it was up and had replies from 4-5 days ago. Ooops! :$

As far as that goes, am I right in assuming a moderator has to approve of my post?
Follow up to my questions:

1) I dont believe the car is heavily contaminated, if I run my finger along the paint I feel some contaminants but not anywhere like sandpaper.

I use a nice thick mitt when I wash and can't always feels "stuff" stuck to the car. Claying gives me that feel of touching every little thing. I often find stuff stuck to the lower portions of the car needing additional attention, so I clay the whole car. Why not? How much longer does it take?

2) If I feel like I have the hang of the claying then I guess I will do the whole car - can only help right?

I think it helps. I'm going to spend time doing it, why not spend a little more time and do it completely.

3) Thanks for that information! Really useful - helps me avoid a mistake. I'll go get some QD right away!

When I first started, I thought UQD would be great, but someone mentioned it's TOO slick for the clay to do a good job.

4a) So I wanted to get 2 grit guards because I read numerous times it is the way to go, and I couldn't find any locally so I placed an online order. This was before I read your answers, so I figured I'd also order the Swirl X at the same time. So I will have UC and Swirl-X. I'm assuming its worth a try at this point with the Swirl-X first, then if I dont see any results move to UC?

Yep, start with a small test spot of say 1'X1' or 2'X2' and see if the least aggressive product (SwirlX) and method (foam applicator) works, then step up if it doesn't.

4b) Obviously an abrasive removes some paint. Just out of curiosity, how many applicated of UC can one car take before the clear coat is removed? Is it in the 10s, the 100s, the 1000s?

We recently had a similar discussion: http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50023

5) Well I placed an online order, but is there a reason as to why its not available? Weird - I found almost every other product.

The vendor may have been out of stock?

6) The car is in pretty great shape, if I give it a quick wash and wax (before learning about all the meguiars products and the double bucket technique) it's a head turner. People are always surprised that its an 2006 when I tell them. So I'll try with my Random Orbit.

Good luck.

7) In terms of using a new pad for each product - are you saying I must dispose of them afterwards? Or can I wash them and reuse them the next time? I was under the impression you could wash and dry microfiber (no laundry softner) and re-use them the next time. Although not said above, I sort of feel like maybe it was implied. Just want to verify.

Pads can be re-used after cleaning. For myself, I spritz them with All Purpose Cleaner when I'm done for the day, take them home and wash them with some microfibers I used that day too.

8NEW!) I noticed a thread from back in 2008 (I think) about people discussing a possible course in Montreal - but the thread just came to a halt without any conclusion. Do you indeed offer courses in Montreal? If so, where can I find information about it?

I can't answer this question. If Meguiar's does offer a course, it will be good to attend.

[y2j514]

Re: Meguiars n00b

[QUOTE=wifpd4;471504]

We recently had a similar discussion: http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50023
QUOTE]

Awesome read! Thanks for the link. I obviously wasn't looking for an exact figure - just a ball park figure to get an idea of things.

[y2j514]

Re: Meguiars n00b

These generally don't have the power needed to correct severe defects, but at least they don't get tired. You have nothing to lose by trying it, but don't be disappointed if it doesn't correct everything. The good news is you say your paint is in pretty decent shape overall, so this might hold you over for a while until you decide to pull the trigger on a proper DA buffer. This light duty tool in conjunction with Ultimate Compound is so incredibly safe that at least you won't have to worry at all about damaging your paint.

I just found the article in the hot topics regarding this subject. Some people mention that hand is better than Orbital buffer. What is your take? Is it even worth me trying with the orbit? And if the orbit is not successful, is it possible that I'll have better success with my hand? I have very minor swirls in some spots and only one minor scratch I'd like to work out. Aside from the swirls, it is still effective for polishing, correct? (and obviosuly spreading wax)

[Murr1525]

Re: Meguiars n00b

The newer technology products (SwirlX, Ult. Compound) have a better chance of working with the cheap type buffers. Still may or may not, but a better chance.

The bigger scratch may need by hand...

[OldSchoolDude]

Re: Meguiars n00b

Start off with Ultimate polish first, see what that does for you before going to the UC.
A bar of clay can do one car or 10, depends on how bad the paint it.
I've seen Megs Polish do some amazing things, I always start there.

[y2j514]

Re: Meguiars n00b

So Ultimate polish with the orbital, then do I try

a) Swirl-X with orbital
or
b) Ultimate polish by hand.

Essentially, going with the theory least agressive to get the job done I would assume this would be the logical order

1) Ultimate Polish by orbital
2) UP by hand
3) Swirl-X orbital
4) Swirl-X hand
5) UC orbital
6) UC hand

Sound reasonable? Obviously I wont do all the steps if I don't need to.

As far as the bigger scratch - its like only 1/2 and inch long so working by hand is not an issue. My only worry is if I can actually get it out - if I run my finger nail over it I can sometimes catch my nail depending on the angle.

I know that if you can catch it with your finger nail then it cant be worked out. So is it safe to try and reduce the visibility a little, or should I just leave it alone entirely?

Thanks again for the super speedy responses! I can't wait to detail the car - just waiting for my grit guards to come in the mail!

[Murr1525]

Re: Meguiars n00b

I dont think I would worry about Ult. Polish and SwirlX... one or the other. SwirlX being a hair stronger, maybe the better way to go for defect removal.

You can probably reduce the scratch some if nothing else.

[OldSchoolDude]

Re: Meguiars n00b

So Ultimate polish with the orbital, then do I try

a) Swirl-X with orbital
or
b) Ultimate polish by hand.

Essentially, going with the theory least agressive to get the job done I would assume this would be the logical order

1) Ultimate Polish by orbital
2) UP by hand
3) Swirl-X orbital
4) Swirl-X hand
5) UC orbital
6) UC hand

Sound reasonable? Obviously I wont do all the steps if I don't need to.

As far as the bigger scratch - its like only 1/2 and inch long so working by hand is not an issue. My only worry is if I can actually get it out - if I run my finger nail over it I can sometimes catch my nail depending on the angle.

I know that if you can catch it with your finger nail then it cant be worked out. So is it safe to try and reduce the visibility a little, or should I just leave it alone entirely?

Thanks again for the super speedy responses! I can't wait to detail the car - just waiting for my grit guards to come in the mail!

"Essentially, going with the theory least agressive to get the job done I would assume this would be the logical order"

Yes, something I always do.

On the steps, follow UP by UC.
What I meant to say is that I'd try the UP only to see the results, maybe you don't need to use the UC other than the scratch if the paint isn't jacked up to bad.
If you do the entire car with UC then you would have to then use UP, double the work and might not be needed.
I did a black suv, had some swirls and ONLY used UP, worked it very slowly, the results were outstanding, so you see I saved a step which made me happy.
As for the scratch, use UC with an orbital (Orange Pad) if you have one using UC, work it slow and with good pressure, left to right, up and down and inspect your work.
You might have to make a few passes to get it out, hopefully it comes out, if not maybe the biggest part.
Good Luck

[y2j514]

Re: Meguiars n00b

This is going to be my first full detail (used to only wash and wax). I am waiting on the grit guards and a somewhat nice but shady day. I will post back with my results. Thanks for all the help everybody!

[OldSchoolDude]

Re: Meguiars n00b

This is going to be my first full detail (used to only wash and wax). I am waiting on the grit guards and a somewhat nice but shady day. I will post back with my results. Thanks for all the help everybody!

You just entered a brand new world in maintaing your ride.
Can't wait to see the pics.

[weavers]

Re: Meguiars n00b

you don't need a whole bar of clay for a car. i tear a bar into thirds or quarters. soak in warm water and kneed it when it gets dirty. i have had pieces of clay last for 8 cars and still be in good shape. after it gets to dirty then use on wheels/exhaust or windows.