How to cut hard clear??

[Jonnyboy1617]

I had my Duster repainted about a year ago. The car had swirls from the very beginning, because the paint was too soft to try and get them out (painted during winter). So I left it and decided to take out the defects when the clear was harder later on in the year.

I ended up heading out for a number of months. This gave the paint plenty of time to harden, maybe too much. I have tried a number of passes of UC with an orbital polisher with a foam pad. I have also tried the Medium-Cut Cleaner in the Mirror Glaze line with the same foam pad. It takes out the light defects, but will not touch the deeper stuff. The scratches cannot be felt with a fingernail nor a thin Post-it Note.

What I am dealing with is probably sandpaper marks from the wet sanding. I have no idea what grit the guy would of used, or how I can get them out at this point in time. I am willing to go deeper into the paint as there are 7 coats of clear, I just need advice on what to use and what precautions to take. I cannot remember who made the paint, but I remember hearing it was a very similar formula to PPG. (Might help, I don't know).

Any advice is appreciated! Car show in 3 days
Thanks

[Murr1525]

Re: How to cut hard clear??

Any chance of pics?

[greg0303]

Re: How to cut hard clear??

The sanding marks should have been removed when the paint was still fresh. It would have been much quicker process.

I'm afraid now your only solution would be M105 Ultra Cut Compound with heavy cutting wool pad, like W4000 or W5000, and rotary buffer.

If it would be just a spot repair probably you could give it a shot with DA polisher but if you need to even the entire vehicle rotary buffer is gonna be your best tool.

Wool pad is gonna leave swirl marks, which you need to remove, and M205 Ultra Finishing Polish and polishing pad can do it. After that you need to restore gloss and you can go with M205, M07 Show Car Glaze or Ultimate Polish on finishing pad.

You lock everything with wax protection and your car should be ready for a show.

As you can see it's a long process but after heavy compounding, which probably is gonna take you most of your time, things should go smoother.

Are you familiar with rotary buffers?


You could also sand your paint with fine grit sanding paper, like 3000, and then start the whole process. And as Murr suggested, pics would be extremely helpful in this case.

[Jonnyboy1617]

Re: How to cut hard clear??

I've tried a number of methods and camera settings to try and get pictures, but nothing is internet worthy. Is there another way to gauge the defects?

I do have a 6" rotary, but it is probably 20 years old and the trigger regular hangs up and spins at full speed (1650 rpm). Would those speeds be dangerous with a rough compound and not a lot of experience? I've used it a few times but am fairly easy on the trigger (before it broke), so I don't have first hand experience on how fast it can cut. Thanks again.

[greg0303]

Re: How to cut hard clear??

The rotary speed totally depends on paint response. 1650 rpm is still in heavy compounding range, but for polishing 1200-1400 would work better.

You're short on time because of your show. Do you have access to fine grit sanding paper (like 2500 or 3000) and DA polisher?

[Jonnyboy1617]

Re: How to cut hard clear??

Finest I have right now is 2000 grit, and I wasn't able to make it to the store to get the different compounds.

I did however try the old rotary buffer with a wool pad I found, using the UC again. It is working WONDERS over the DA with the foam, getting the majority of flaws. Though I guess it makes sense.

And If I were to run to the store tomorrow and get finer sandpaper and the M105 and M205, could the top half of a car be done in a ~5 hour afternoon? Or should I just keep with what I'm doing now with the UC and save the rest for later?

[greg0303]

Re: How to cut hard clear??

Now you know why so many detailers like rotary buffers. They work much faster.

It looks like your old rotary does the trick. To make sure it does you have to check the paint in sunlight or under xenon/ florescent light.

M105 cuts faster than UC but creates a lot of dust. If you prime your pad first it should allow you longer buffing cycle. Also quick mist of water can extend it after initial buffing.

I can't really give you a time frame. If you stay with your rotary for initial cut with wool pad and then use M205 with your DA for polishing it shouldn't take super long time. Your car paint may react quickly to M205 polishing or you may need longer time for full gloss restoration.

Just check to make sure that rotary buffer fully removes even deep tracers of sanding marks.