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New to detailing and Paint Correction

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  • New to detailing and Paint Correction

    Hello All,
    I have a vehicle that is in need of some paint care/correction etc and since this is my first one I thought I'd post it here for some help, advice and opinions. The paint hasn’t been looked after very well by the previous owner as is looks like it has been washed with a dirty mitt, plenty of swirl marks, random scratches and pretty heavy oxidation. I’ve tried a few things already and happy with the progress so far, although slow going.

    So far I‘ve clayed half of the vehicle using Meguiar’s Smooth Surface Clay Kit. I have to say as never claying a vehicle before I was really impressed with the results. Most of the horizontal panels required 3 rounds of claying to get rid of the contaminants while the verticals required 1 - 2. As the panels are quite large and due to the size of the car (17.33ft long) the quick detailer isn’t lasting long. The car also has vinyl graphics on it which were like sandpaper to the touch, so I tested the clay on a small portion. Upon the results of the test I decided to clay the entire graphic (probably against recommendation) and was amazed at the results and couldn’t believe the clay bar removed contaminates from the vinyl and didn’t damage them in any way. If anything it made them quite smooth again, brought back some shine, and although not perfectly clean it’s easily a 60-70% improvement.

    As much as I’d like to say and think the paint is in great shape the reality is it’s pretty poor. Whomever painted the car to begin with looks like they didn’t graduate kindergarten. Probably about 80% of it is ok but there are some under paint defects that will never come out without being properly reworked in a paint shop. So the dilemma was to either leave the paint as it was or fix it up the best I could with what I had. I chose the latter of the two as I saw it the lesser of the two evils.

    I’ve done a test patch on the paint with some Swirl X and it made a bit of an improvement, definitely brought up a little more shine but didn’t take out many of the finer scratches. I then proceeded to try some Ultimate Compound which made a considerable difference, both to shine and removed some fine scratches. Again, against recommendation (especially for a first timer) I then used a rotary buffer with Ultimate Compound and a soft pad which again made a considerable improvement but still wasn’t quite enough. I’m guessing the paint is fairly hard. Upon contacting Meguiar’s they recommended M105 followed up by M205. So now just waiting for both bottles to arrive, extremely expensive stuff here in Australia! Once they do arrive I’ll first try a hand cut and if it doesn't get it I’ll use the Rotary Buffer again.

    I guess my first question is when do you know to call it quits while removing a scratch? I remember reading somewhere that if the scratch catches your fingernail it can’t be completely removed, only lessened. What would be considered borderline? I suppose a paint thickness gauge would be needed for an accurate answer, something an amateur wouldn’t have straight away. I’ll try to post some pictures of the paint condition soon when I'm able to attach pics as this is only my third post.

    Thanks.

  • #2
    Re: New to detailing and Paint Correction

    For me, I am not very OCD about my car since it is daily driver so as long as it shines and is about 75% swirl free, I am happy. I do one correction a year where I make the paint just about perfect and after that it's all maintenance.

    When do I call it quits? If after using Ultimate Compound and a 4" W8204 polishing pad, on my DA at speed 5, the scratch is not gone I call it quits. If by this point the scratch is still there I live with it and continue with my regular routine.

    You don't have to attach pics. Upload them to your gallery and then post them into the thread. Here is a how-to on how to do that:

    Tedrow's Detailing
    845-642-1698
    Treat Yourself to that New Car Feeling

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    • #3
      Re: New to detailing and Paint Correction

      Luckily it's not a daily driver so maintenance will be fairly easy once restored to a better condition. It sits covered up most of the time so it doesn't see the elements very often. If the paint was a little bit nicer I'd probably be a bit more OCD about it but since it's not I'd settle for a 80-85% finish. So far on my test patch all the swirls are gone but some light random scratches remain. Some will probably come out and some wont. As far as the pictures go I'll snap some tomorrow as I have to work today.

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      • #4
        Re: New to detailing and Paint Correction

        RJ what car is it? And where in Australia are you?

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        • #5
          Re: New to detailing and Paint Correction

          Hello Dave,
          It's an American Charger. We are currently residing in SA although both my wife and myself want to move back to Melbourne. I assume your from Melbourne as that's what your location says ?

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: New to detailing and Paint Correction

            Yes I'm in Melbourne.

            By the sounds of it the car definitely needs to be machine polished.
            How old is the car? Is the car single stage paint or clear-coated? What colour?
            All these factors will impact the process and products required to correct the paint.

            If you're confident the car hasn't been paint-corrected before, you should be able to remove a fair amount of paint without too many issues. But you may find that to be overkill. You will find that if you get the car up to around 85-90% corrected, any random deep scratches will simply disappear unless you get right up close, and look from the right(wrong) angle.

            PS. Ultimate Compound is not designed for rotary use by the way lol. However, if you got results with that combination, you will find you will get a similar result from #105.

            Don't bother with hand application - use the machine if you're comfortable. If you don't have much experience with a rotary, don't use it - buy a random orbital or forced rotation unit - much less risk and you can still cut some very heavy defects, it will just take a little longer that's all.

            Otherwise, let a detailer have a crack at it.

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            • #7
              Re: New to detailing and Paint Correction

              From what I gather the car has been repainted a reddish color in 2007 so the paint isn't terribly old. It seems to be clear coated as cutting compounds don't transfer any color to a clean rag. I'll try again in an inconspicuous area with 105 to be totally sure. I would have sworn it was single stage myself. I don't know if it has been paint corrected before but there is a fair bit of wax buildup in between the panels. (Goes to show quality work)

              The spot I tested has great reflection, and you don't really notice the scratches till you you get the light and angle of view just right. You also tend to notice the other under paint defects firstly before the scratches. The only reason I'm after taking them out is I believe you could remove most of them.

              I wanted to see what the UC did with a little extra cut before spending $78 on a bottle of 105.

              Hand application would probably be sufficient but would be rather time consuming. I'm not in a rush to finish the job so an extra day or two isn't a problem. The car would definitely benefit from a machine polish though. Luckily the edges are all fine and most of the panels are flat.

              What part of Melbourne are you from if you don't mind me asking? We both like the eastern suburbs.

              Well, I just rang and the bottles of M105 and M205 are here so it's time to go pick them up from the shop.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: New to detailing and Paint Correction

                Yes, from what you've described the paint is painted in 2pak colour + clearcoat.

                The problem with hand polishing is that you just can't generate enough pressure & heat to effectively remove paint. Ultimate Compound via machine will do a LOT more than #105 by hand.

                I actually import my #105 from the US - cheaper than buying it here in Australia, it's crazy!!!

                I'm in Glen Waverley - eastern side!

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                • #9
                  Re: New to detailing and Paint Correction

                  Hello All,
                  I've picked up a bottle of 105 and 205 and tested some spots today. I can't say I was as WOW'd with the 105 as others seem to be but then again I'm probably not using it right. It was easier to use with the soft foam pad as opposed to the wool pad. I'll give it a go again tomorrow with the wool pad but it seemed to dry out and turn powdery fairly quickly. I think pad size has something to do with it as the wool pad is fairly large compared to the foam one. I'm probably also a bit leery to hack into the paint deep enough due to my inexperience with a rotary and not wanting to damage the paint on a R/T 440 4 speed... A light scratch is better then removing the clear coat.

                  The 205 followed up with Swirl X seemed to offer the best results. The swirl X seemed to give a little more clarity and color then the 205 on its own, though only marginally.



                  Regardless, the overall results are night and day compared to the sections that have not been touched.

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                  • #10
                    Re: New to detailing and Paint Correction

                    Small world, my wife is from Ferntree Gully. Thats a nice area for which we hope to return soon.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: New to detailing and Paint Correction

                      #205 and SwirlX are similar products - I guess you would call them cousins.....similar to #105 and UC.

                      Great to see you're making progress though!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: New to detailing and Paint Correction

                        How much heat should be generated, and what would be considered too much? I buffed a small section on the hood with 105 and a foam pad and it was warm to the touch, about the same as cruising around for a couple of hours or sitting in the sun for a few hours. The results are good and it's a temperature that I know is safe for paint. A bit more cut still would be nice though. Any ideas on getting a longer workable time on the 105 without going powdery? With a wool pad that is.

                        Thanks

                        I can't believe how expensive Meguiar's products are here in Australia

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                        • #13
                          Re: New to detailing and Paint Correction

                          Thought I'd take some time to post some before and after images, hopefully they work.

                          Before



                          After


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                          • #14
                            Re: New to detailing and Paint Correction

                            Looks great mate!!! They look like pretty heavy swirls in the first photo, well done!

                            #105 on a wool pad & rotary breaks up very quickly. You may find you may need to make a second application to get the results you're after.

                            Warm to the touch is good, you don't want it to get so hot you can't touch it, otherwise you run the risk of burning through the clearcoat.

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                            • #15
                              Re: New to detailing and Paint Correction

                              Thanks

                              Can't wait to see the finished results. Just the little bits that I've done look like deep wet liquid paint so far. You'd cringe if I posted an up close view of the swirls, looks like the surface of mars.

                              So far I've had good results with a foam pad and 105. Just takes an extra cut or two but seems to offer a lot longer workable time. I can start with a heavier pressure and work to a light pressure for a good finish rather then it turning to powder on a couple of passes.

                              After going over everything with 205 should I go over it again with a pure polish or similar product for a bit more prep before wax or would I just be wasting my time?

                              Also, on a side note are you or anyone at Obsession involved or were involved with Targa Tasmania ?

                              RJ

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