Clay Barring Question

[l SIC l]

Re: Clay Barring Question

EDIT: I have just realized that 'Ultimate Compound' is a polish (face palm), but is it sufficient enough to be the primary polish before waxing? i.e. is there a brighter option (as you wouldn't expect a cutting compound to also be the best polish available).

[l SIC l]

Re: Clay Barring Question

I just keep coming up with questions! After using say either 'SwirlX' or 'Ultimate Compound', what would be the next step? i.e. do I go straight to waxing or do I implement a polish?

I'm asking this because I can't seem to find an application polish from Meguiar's website, it seems like the order would go: 1) Clay bar application 2) SwirlX or Ultimate Compound 3)....... and then 4) Tech Wax 2.0. Should I use the 'Deep Crystal Polish' before I wax the car (or another type of Meguiar's polish I am unaware of), or will this be an unnecessary application?

...I feel as if all the ideals I have gone by over the past few years with these Meguiar's products are being re-taught to me in a more effective manner then I have previously been doing :p

[l SIC l]

Re: Clay Barring Question

Wow, thanks again guys. I'm surprised at the willingness to help compared to members of other car forums when it comes to questions!

Cheers,
Shaarn

[yalerd]

Re: Clay Barring Question

In summary; how do you determine which compound to use for each application?

The most effective way to know is a test spot. By doing a test spot you will observe how the paint system reacts to the combination (pad, product, pressure, speed, etc) you are using. The only way you'll know for sure is doing a test spot.

Some pro's will have an idea on what to use because of the experience they have by looking at the condition of the vehicle, or because they've worked in that type of vehicle before.

In some vehicles with "severe" defects just by using a mild product will eliminate them, in others you have to use a very aggressive approach to remove them. You'll have to inspect and let your judgement decide which combination will suit you best and do a test spot to confirm that you've made the right choice. A test spot will assure you that it's going to satisfy your need and you don't have to work more to get the job done.

Hope this help

[Murr1525]

Re: Clay Barring Question

Those 3 cleaners are basically the same thing, just mild, medium, and strong.

Any of them can be used over the entire vehicle, but ScratchX is sold in a size that is more for spot use.

For 'general detailing', having SwirlX and UC on your shelf would cover most things, try the mild first, then strong if needed.

[l SIC l]

Re: Clay Barring Question

One more question: What is the difference between swirlX, Ultimate Compound and ScratchX 2.0? (apart from their obvious product descriptions).

I will give it a shot first and can someone correct me if I'm wrong:

SwirlX is the general cutting compound used over the entire vehicle before polishing as it removes light scratches and swirls (generally for new paintwork or very light paint wear).

ScratchX 2.0 is not used over the entire car as a general cutting compound but is used in the case that say, for instance, a zipper from somebody's pants scrapes the paintwork i.e. the product is only applied to that section and not across an entire panel.

Ultimate Compound: I'm not sure about this one? Is this the better substitute over the other two products before applying a polish and wax treatment for say a 90's model car with original paintwork with general 'wear and tear'?

If we were to put this into a couple instances, where for example; My Mum's Range Rover 2005 (so fairly new paintwork with only minor scuffs/swirls) was about to undergo a 'wash/clay/cut/polish/wax' treatment, what cutting compound would be the best option? and for the same treatment, what would be the best cutting compound option for a 1996-1997 Supra with original paintwork (general wear and tear, not damaged but a lot of fine scratches and swirls).

In summary; how do you determine which compound to use for each application?

Thanks again! Sorry to be a pest

[BlackScreaminMachine]

Re: Clay Barring Question

Another thing to add is when I clay this is what I notice. Once I put down some lubrication (Quick detailer is a good option from Meg, or Mothers Showtime), I take my piece (1/4 of a bar) and glide over the paint evenly with very little pressure. I notice some "drag" as I glide across but then it goes away and then moves very smoothly.

I inspect the clay, I see what has come off, then I refold for a clean surface and repeat. You should notice most contamination on doors (especially lower), and rear bumper area. Just make sure the car has had a good wash, especially lower areas of the car near the rocker as I have had in the past picked up LARGE granuals and it ruined a clay bar. That goes with claying before paint correction. You do not want to catch a piece of dirt/sand/rock and then damage the car.

[l SIC l]

Re: Clay Barring Question

Thanks a lot for that information, I appreciate it!

Cheers

[BS MXRacer]

Re: Clay Barring Question

Claying is relatively simple so on to your questions
1. This depends on the intial condition of the paint, if it has been neglected then it is possible for one car to need a full clay bar but usually people divide them into 2 or 3 pieces. If you drop a piece of clay throw it away it's no longer safe for the vehicles surface.

2. Simply, no. Clay bars were designed to remove bonded contaminants on the surface (ex: tree sap, brake dust, mag chloride, etc.) and once removed by the clay the initial conditions that allowed them to adhere to your paint surface are no longer present so they won't reattach. Lets consider the tree sap example when it first lands on your vehicle it is wet and sticky and over time drys on while bonding itself to the surface if you then remove it by claying it doesn't return to being wet and sticky and therefore won't re-bond to the paint. When you can no longer find a clean section of clay to work with it is time to get a new piece, that one is "full".

3. The clay bar should be used after washing and before your compound/polish step and then you can follow that with your favorite wax/sealant. It is not necessary to clay after you compound/polish as these do not bond to the surface.

[l SIC l]

I apologize in advance if this has been covered.

Although I have been using Meguiar's products for a few years now, I have yet to use the clay car kit (which I have just purchased now!).

My questions are:

1) Is one clay bar sufficient to be used on only one vehicle (i.e. 1 per vehicle).

2) With constantly re-moulding a clay bar whilst continuing over different panels, will the bonded contaminants that were initially on the surface of the clay be re-distributed over the rest of the panels whilst 'claying'?

3) Should I use the clay bar before or after applying a cutting compound prior to polishing/waxing?

Thanks guys!