Rubbing compound / technique for new body panel and paint

[geoff]

My '88 Toyota pickup hood was looking a little ratty - even I couldn't stand it.



I bought a brand new aftermarket hood for $50 (it was still in the box, but had a few dings that I pounded out), and bought 3 cans of matching spray paint and clearcoat from http://www.paintscratch.com/. The color matches great, but after the first coat of clearcoat, the surface isn't shiny. Reading their instructions at http://www.paintscratch.com/spraycan.htm, they say "The application of Rubbing compound creates the deep gloss in the clearcoat so don't skip this step!"

Is there a Meguiar's product I can use for this, and if so, what is the correct tool to apply it with. I've got some 83, but it doesn't seem very abrasive. Does the Porter Cable have enough power to help? Or do I need something like a Makita rotary polisher? What kind of pad - wool, cutting, polishing?

Pictures of my hood results to follow when I'm done (and my successful camper shell restoration when I can finish the writeup)

[travisdecpn]

From reading their instructions, it sounds like the best option would be either #80 or #83, which are the most aggressive products you can use via PC. I would start with #80, then move to #83 if the first doesn't work. Since the clearcoat is very thin, you should be very careful.

[the other pc]

Tough question. A lot of variables involved.

With a normal gun sprayed finish you would wet-sand then compound with a rotary. Rattle cans don't give a uniform film build so it's nearly impossible to know for sure just how much depth your have to work with (unless you used a thickness gauge, first on the basecoat and again on the topcoat in multiple spots around the panel).

I don't know about PaintScratch but other brands of touch-up paints I've used have been far weaker than OEM paint so they need to be worked less aggressively.

If you have enough paint left over my advice would be to shoot some sample panels and experiment.


PC.

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Geoff,

As soon as I read their instructions, a red flag went up.

Here's the skinny, what they're proposing will work... kind of...

Their business is applying paint. Making paint look good is an art form. To simply state,

6) Let the clearcoat dry for at least three days. Use Rubbing Compound (apply with clean soft cotton only, paper products or dirty fabrics will scratch your paint surface) to smooth and shine the area. Always test the rubbing compound on your vehicle in an inconspicuous place to check for surface compatibility and shine. Without this step, the paint will not shine properly.

is kind of a "Catch all remedy" that use to work in the old days but is a hit or miss solution in modern days. That's because some modern products with the name compound are different from what most people consider a traditional compound.

The point being is this, to just say, Apply a rubbing compound to create gloss and shine is too vague.

--> You <-- the end-user, need to know what I call the 3 P's:

• * Paint
  * Products
  * Procedures

That is you need to know,

• * A little bit about the surface you're working on, (paint)
  * The products your working with, (compounds, polishes and waxes), (products)
  * And the methods in which you're applying your choice of products, on to the the surface you're working on, (procedures)
  (This could be paint or whatever, plastic, gel-coat, aluminum, etc.)

If the results you have achieved after having sprayed this product doesn't meet your expectations for gloss, depth and clarity, we can do our best to try to help you achieve these results with our product line. However, just so you know, it's not always possible to duplicate the results a spray can finish provides, as it is to duplicate the results of a professionally sprayed automotive finish.

Mike

[geoff]

Thanks all for the suggestions so far. When I talked with the PaintScratch folks on the phone, they said they used Du Pont automotive paints, color mixed to OEM specification, then (for my application) packaged in spray cans. The color match exceeded all my expectations, and after the first coat of clearcoat, it looks good. I still need to apply the second coat of clear coat.

So far, I've used two cans of base color (dark gray metallic) and one can of clearcoat. Each can gave about 4 mist coats over the entire surface. At least a day between spraying each can. Since I was gone all last week, the first can of clearcoat has had a week to dry.

My plan is as follows:

• Wipe down with a microfiber cloth to get all the clearcoat "dust" from the first coat off, and use the Porter Cable with microfiber bonnet if needed
  
• Spray second coat of clearcoat and let it dry completely (easy since I'm gone all next week)
  
• Porter Cable with polishing pad with #83 to bring up gloss. I know #83 is supposed to be followed with wax, but manufacturer says to wait 30 days before applying wax
  
• If that doesn't work, use friend's Makita rotary polisher with polishing pad and #83
  
• Depending on results, Makita with wool pad and #83, but I'm guessing I won't need to go that extreme
  
• Wax after 30 days per PaintScratch recommendation (with NXT Tech Wax). I'll re-polish with the PC and #83 first if needed.
  
• If all else fails, come to one of the next Meguiars open detailing days with my truck and let the pros go at it -- although I'm sure I'll got lots of grief for the way the truck looks

I'm guessing I won't have to wet sand the final clearcoat with 1000 wet and dry, but will consider that as an option before polishing.

Given the way the hood looks now, anything I do will be a tremendous improvement. I'm not talking show car quality here, just something my wife or my dog won't be embarassed to ride around with me in.