Water etching, what can I use to take those spots off?

[angeloaa]

hi Guys
Last month I decided to detail my 2000 Black Honda Prelude, the last time that it was done was in 2003.
I bought all the products I thought I would need:
car soap
clay bar
cleaner wax (step 1)
polish (step 2)
Meguiars Gold wax
MF towels

After washing the vehicle I used the clay bar system, was very pleased at the result, so soft.

I then applied Step1, what I noticed is that the cleaner wax was drying to quickly, I would do a 20" by 20" area and by the time I got around to wiping the area with a MF towel it was so difficult to take off, the cleaner was sticking to the MF towel.

After appying the cleaner to the entire vehicle I began Step2 (polish), same thing, it was difficult to remove and drying to quick. At this point I was really getting frustrated so I began to apply the polish using a very thick coats, a section at a time. The car looked fine after the polish.

Then I began to see those damn etching marks, most of them were around the door area just below the window, I didn't bother to apply wax, I was too pissed off and tired.

My questions are:
1. Why were both STEp 1 and 2 drying so quickly? I wasn't doing a large section at a time. I was in the shade, probably was 24C-26C outside.

2. What can I use to take the etching marks off the vehicle? I'd rather buy something that will work as compared to buying multiple items? I'll be doing all work by hand.

3. When using an applicator should it be damp before applying Step1, Step2, or wax?

[music_man185]

Re: Water etching, what can I use to take those spots off?

when you say step 1 cleaner wax, do you mean pre wax cleaner? those are 2 different things. i may be wrong, but i think that if you used a cleaner wax first, then the polish step was for nothing.

to take out etchings, try swirl-x. its a little more abrasive and should do the trick.

[Chris Thompson]

Re: Water etching, what can I use to take those spots off?

What kind of polish/cleaner wax are you using, paste or liquid? Was the surface warm to the touch? If the surface is warm, it's going to dry faster. If you are using a paste, it is going to dry very fast.
For etching marks, start with ScratchX 2.0. If they are too deep then you are going to want to move on to Ultimate Compound. When you are using these, it may be necessary to do 2 or 3 passes in order to achieve the look you are going for.
When you are working by hand, its absolutely a great idea to use a damp applicator. It'll help the applicator to run more smoothly across the surface and it will also help some with your drying out problem. Best of luck to you! Post some pictures and let us know how it goes.

[k3ith]

Re: Water etching, what can I use to take those spots off?

Sorry you are having so much trouble. The good news is that there are going to be logical answers and solutions to get you on an easier path. However, we really need to know exactly what products you are using, including what type of applicator pads or towels.

As far as the etching, start with the least agressive product first, Swirlx, and only move to scratchx or ultimate compound if you have to. I bet the swirlx will work fine, it has for me.

Finally, with a black car that is 10 years old, working by hand will work, but a dual action polisher would really amaze you with results and time savings.

[STG]

Re: Water etching, what can I use to take those spots off?

After application, a cleaner/wax is supposed to dry and haze before removal.

Your original post lacks many details making it impossible to render assistance.

Please recount the entire application process.

[angeloaa]

Re: Water etching, what can I use to take those spots off?

Products I used:
Wash mit

soap

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G10464

clay bar system

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G1016

DC Paint Cleaner step 1 (was shaking it at the beginning of starting a new section, surface was not warm)

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+A3016

DC Polish Step 2 (was shaking it at the beginning of starting a new section, surface was not warm)

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+A2116

Gold Class Liquid wax (did not use it yet)

http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/detail/MEG+G7016

Applicators (used it straight out of the package, was not damp)


I also had purchased a package of sponge applicators but didn't end up using them.

MF towels (I'm not sure if it makes a difference but I did not wash them before first use)


I guess I have 3 options:
SwirlX
ScratchX2.0
Ultimate Compound
The etching seems to be very deep.
I'd like to use a rotary buffer but I need pads for it and I'm going to be doing detailing again on Tuesday, I won't have time to buy pads, not even sure where to get them in Toronto.

do you guys suggest claying the vehicle over again?
what order should I use, I was thinking:
1. wash
2. using either SwirlX, ScratchX2.0, or Ultimate Compound on etching and other troubled areas.
3. DC step1
4. DC step2
5. Gold Class Liquid wax

[Spidey]

Re: Water etching, what can I use to take those spots off?

hmmm.. i have never had problem using pre wax cleaner.. and the step 2 polish.. i know some products like the show car glaze dries pretty fast and requires a bit more elbow grease, but the no.1 cleaner shouldnt be too bad... or maybe you expected it to be easy peasy... the whole process should take at least 3+ hours if done right...

and yes you will sweat..and yes your back may hurt.. and yes your arm may be sore!.... that's part of the whole process...

[angeloaa]

Re: Water etching, what can I use to take those spots off?

I never thought it was going to be easy.
3 hours is not enough time to complete the whole process, minimum your looking at is 6-8 hours, washing, claying, step1, step2, and wax.

I got some DC Step2 polish on my plastic skirt right underneath the door, what can I use to take it off?

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Water etching, what can I use to take those spots off?

Check this out...

How To Remove Water Spots off Automotive Paints

[akimel]

Re: Water etching, what can I use to take those spots off?

I then applied Step1, what I noticed is that the cleaner wax was drying to quickly, I would do a 20" by 20" area and by the time I got around to wiping the area with a MF towel it was so difficult to take off, the cleaner was sticking to the MF towel.

After appying the cleaner to the entire vehicle I began Step2 (polish), same thing, it was difficult to remove and drying to quick. At this point I was really getting frustrated so I began to apply the polish using a very thick coats, a section at a time. The car looked fine after the polish.

I see from your subsequent comment that when you cited "cleaner wax" you actually meant Deep Crystal Cleaner. If DC1 is drying too quickly on you, reduce the size of the work area. Try an 18"x18" or 12"x12" area. Work the cleaner in the area and then remove immediately with your towel. I have never had problems with DC1 drying too quickly. Perhaps the humidity or other ambient conditions is causing this to happen, but if you reduce the work area you should be able to stay on top of the product. It's also possible that you are applying it too thin. One usually doesn't hear this said, given the detailing mantra "Apply it THIN," but perhaps this is the case in your situation. Wax needs to be applied very thin, but you have a bit more latitude when it comes to cleaners and polishes. You need to apply sufficient product to the surface to get the job done.

The important thing is to do an 18"x18" or 12"x12" test spot. Vary your technique until you figure out the product. And you will figure it out.

As far as removing water spot etching, you are just going to have to find the right abrasive polish for the job. If SwirlX doesn't get it done for you (and I suspect it won't), then step up to Ultimate Compound. The only way to remove etching is to remove clearcoat.

[Spidey]

Re: Water etching, what can I use to take those spots off?

6-8 hours? I have been doing the 3 step process forever and it does not take 6-8 hours... and i do everything by hand.

these are the est time for each step, being generous

wash car: 30 mins

dry car: 15 mins

clay car: 45min

pre wax cleaner: 45min

polish: 45 mins

wax 45 mins
TOTAL TIME 3.75 hours.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Water etching, what can I use to take those spots off?

Etched water spots can tend to be quite deep. Deep Crystal Paint Cleaner is a very mild product and, especially by hand, is most likely not going to be sufficient to remove them.

akimel's advice to work smaller areas is a good one. Working by hand requires that you confine the work area to a small space in order to effectively transmit the power needed to correct severe defects. This will still hold true even if you step up to something like Ultimate Compound, which it sounds like you might have to here.

Follow the advice given in the thread Mike Phillips linked to, use Ultimate Compound, and you should be fine. If you still find that you're having trouble removing the product from time to time, try this: apply a small amount of fresh product to the stubborn stuff you're trying to remove, work it gently for a few seconds and then wipe off immediately. This will essentially rewet the old product and make removal pretty simple.

Spidey, the time frames you quote have, we're sure, worked very well for you in the past. But there are so many variables that we can't just assume everyone will accomplish what they want in those same time frames. We've personally spent 14 hours with a buffer on a single car to get the results we wanted, and in some cases even 14 hours wasn't sufficient. On the flip side, we've worked on cars that were only lightly marred and the paint was wonderfully responsive, so 3 hours was more than sufficient to get the results we were after. And in this case, it sounds like angeloaa is fighting some pretty nasty water spots. Water spots can be extremely difficult to remove in a worst case scenario.

angeloaa, as for removing the DC Polish from the textured plastic skirts, go with some M39 Heavy Duty Vinyl Cleaner and a terry towel - should come right out.

[akimel]

Re: Water etching, what can I use to take those spots off?

6-8 hours? I have been doing the 3 step process forever and it does not take 6-8 hours... and i do everything by hand.

these are the est time for each step, being generous

wash car: 30 mins

dry car: 15 mins

clay car: 45min

pre wax cleaner: 45min

polish: 45 mins

wax 45 mins
TOTAL TIME 3.75 hours.

Haha! I can assure you that it takes me twice as long to do anything the average MOL member does. It sure doesn't feel like I'm going slow (quite the contrary!) but before I know it, hours have passed. I chalk it up to old-timer's disease.

[angeloaa]

Re: Water etching, what can I use to take those spots off?

Well I didn't end up doing my car today, it will have to wait for next week.
I've decided to use Meguiars UC, a few questions before I begin:
When using UC and while working it in for a few minutes should I expect the UC to dry? I'll be doing everything by hand.
Will UC remove bird dropping etching?

Steps that I will be using, Is this correct?
1. wash and dry
2. Clay if I have to
3. use Ultimate Compound on etching and other troubled areas.
4. DC step1
5. DC step2
6. Gold Class Liquid wax


*keep in mind I clayed the vehicle a short while ago(maybe 40 days) and applied DC Step1 and DC Step2, no wax was applied.

[angeloaa]

Re: Water etching, what can I use to take those spots off?

just bumping up the thread.