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2010 Black HD Road King Classic

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  • #1

    2010 Black HD Road King Classic

    Hi,

    I just purchased a 2010 Black HD Road King Classic (thanks! Debbie).

    This was a "leftover" on the showroom floor with 14 miles on it.

    The staff at the HD dealer apparently "dust" the bikes periodically and as you know create the cobweb scratches in the clear coat.

    Unfortunatly, a part of the deal with the salesman was to have the shop buff out the cobweb scratches.

    Now we have replaced the cobweb scratches with buffer scratches.

    For the most part the scratches are still only visable in the direct sun light, but the paint has lost that deep rich black shine.

    In my last conversation with the salesman he suggested a wet sand.

    I'm trying not to hurt their feelings and to cut my losses, so that's what brings me here.

    Given that this is fairly "fresh" factory paint and what I think are minor scratches (based on what I've been reading here), I want to be certain that I have the correct products and procedures before I attempt the restore.

    My goal is to restore a deep, rich black finish as good if not better than what was delivered by the factory. I'm guessing that they had it right at the factory.

    Disclaimer: I'm not a detailer and have only waxed a few cars and bikes before.

    I've purchased the following Meguiar's products (sorry, not finding the acros):

    Scratch X 2.0
    Clear Cost Safe Polishing Compound
    Tech Wax 2.0

    I also bought some terry cloth towels where as they were specified in the product instructions.

    I am concerned that I may be too aggressive here and want to avoid that.

    My thoughts are to apply the Scratch X 2.0 by hand, perhaps several applications. Follow up with the Polishing Compound (assuming that it is a finer abrasive). Finish off with the Tech Wax 2.0. All of the above are hand applied.

    Sorry if this is too wordy, just want to cover everything.

    If there are any suggestions, hints, tips and/or advice available that'd be great!

    Thanks,
    ronbonh
    Tags: None
  • #2
    Re: 2010 Black HD Road King Classic

    Originally posted by ronbonh View Post
    I just purchased a 2010 Black HD Road King Classic (thanks! Debbie).
    If you enjoy swirl-free paint you may not be as thankful later.

    Originally posted by ronbonh View Post
    The staff at the HD dealer apparently "dust" the bikes periodically and as you know create the cobweb scratches in the clear coat.
    Same old story.

    Originally posted by ronbonh View Post
    Unfortunatly, a part of the deal with the salesman was to have the shop buff out the cobweb scratches.

    Now we have replaced the cobweb scratches with buffer scratches.
    Originally posted by ronbonh View Post
    In my last conversation with the salesman he suggested a wet sand.

    I'm trying not to hurt their feelings and to cut my losses, so that's what brings me here.
    Good move. They've already proven they shouldn't be allowed to touch paint.

    Welcome to the frustrating world of Harley - Davidson Vivid Black. I'm on my 4th. Over the years I've finally figured out how to get it to finish. It's finicky, to say the least. The bad news is it's the easiest marring clear coat I've ever seen on any vehicle. You can polish it to perfection and when you wipe it off with the highest lubricity QD and the plushest of microfiber you're going to leave marks.

    I've polished a lot of Vivid Black Harleys and have only had trouble with the tin that comes out of York. The Dynas and Sportsters out of KC have a much more stout clear coat. Even the fiberglass on the York bikes is nice and harder to mar. Of course, it comes out of Tomahawk, WI. This leads me to believe the paint and clear coat coming out of York on baggers and Softails is substandard across the board. Who in their right mind would put such a soft clear on black?!?

    Originally posted by ronbonh View Post
    Disclaimer: I'm not a detailer and have only waxed a few cars and bikes before.
    Read more before you get started. Easier to keep from tearing your hair out that way.

    Originally posted by ronbonh View Post
    I've purchased the following Meguiar's products (sorry, not finding the acros):

    Scratch X 2.0
    Clear Cost Safe Polishing Compound
    Tech Wax 2.0

    I also bought some terry cloth towels where as they were specified in the product instructions.

    I am concerned that I may be too aggressive here and want to avoid that.
    First thing to do is lose the terry cloth. Those that still use terry, especially on soft finishes, have perpetual swirls.

    Originally posted by ronbonh View Post
    My thoughts are to apply the Scratch X 2.0 by hand, perhaps several applications. Follow up with the Polishing Compound (assuming that it is a finer abrasive). Finish off with the Tech Wax 2.0. All of the above are hand applied.
    If you haven't seen this, read it.

    The Challenge of Delicate Paint

    Swirl X may be more aggressive than you need. Considering you're only dealing with a gas tank and fenders a test spot will be small. I'd recommend yanking off the seat and taping off a small section towards the back of the tank. When you find the process to give the results you desire and are ready to go to town on the rest make sure you tape off the rubber trim around the console... or pull the console off entirely. You'll also want to tape off the rubber around the fuel filler. It's almost impossible to get polish off of that rubber once you get it on there. Don't ask how I know this...

    Swirl X may leave the finish a bit hazy. If so you'll need a finer polish to bring out the high luster. I'm unfamiliar with the Clear Coat Safe Polishing Compound. Hopefully someone else will weigh in on that product. One of the things that always worked well for me was Swirl X v 1, no longer available unless you find some old stock. It was an extremely mild diminishing abrasive. I always suspected that's what's in the black tube of swirl & scratch remover sold at H-D dealers, the stuff works the same and leaves a nice finish. You may also want to try finishing with the Color X mentioned in the Delicate Paint article.

    Use foam pads for application, soft, soft microfiber for residue removal. Finding real nice MF over the counter is tough, I found some 10-packs of blue/white towels at Pep Boys that are surprisingly soft. Misting the MF with a QD before using it to remove residue helps minimize marring. If you drop a pad or towel pitch it in the dirty rag bag. You've got to work clean, clean, clean with this finish!

    I've been using a rotary and a Griot's Garage 3" DA on my tin for a while with Menzerna PO85RD. Strangely enough, you have to think outside the box with this clear coat... I found a more aggressive polishing pad used with the finishing polish produces the best finish.

    Check your work in direct sunlight before patting yourself on the back. What looks good in the garage can be hair raising in the sun. The sun never lies.

    OK, you've polished the tin to perfection. You got some protection on it and it looks great. The next day you see some dust on that mirror-black tank and decide to dust it off with liberal QD and a soft MF. Guess what? D"OH!!! You just put marks back into the tank you spent so much time on. And when your leg brushes against the tank while you're riding, guess what? There's some more. Hate to sound so negative but H-D's Vivid Black just isn't a finish you can expect to stay nice. Ride the wheels off the thing and polish it when it gets so bad you can't stand it anymore. The bike was made to be ridden anyway, not to be looked at.

    BTW, congrats on the new bike!

    TL

    Comment

    • #3
      Re: 2010 Black HD Road King Classic

      TL,

      Thanks for the info!

      I'll do some more reading here before getting started.

      I'll post the results when I get it done.

      Thanks!
      ron

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