So many questions

[bleb_1]

I've been reading this and other forums, watching vids for the past few days and have quite a few questions. Since I'm lazy and look for the most efficient way to do things, I hope it's ok to put my questions in one thread as opposed to many.

I will start by saying I will be focusing on paint correction by hand and machine. I have to do this as I have 2 and 4 wheel rides.

Questions by hand;
-I tried Swirl X 2.0 with great results yet still see scratches. A couple more applications didnt help. I can still see scratches. Time to move up to UC or try again with a bit more passion?
-I've read that some use UC as a LSP. Wouldnt this leave a slight haze?
-If UC can be used as a LSP, why bother with other products?
-I was considering the order, if product is needed, of UC to Scratch X 2.0 to Scratch X to Cleaner Wax (DC1) to Polish (DC2). Is this too much?
-Does DC2 remove any residue left by DC1?
-Does DC2 leave any residuals such as oils?

Questions by machine;
-What are the proper speeds using the 7424 for the above products?

General questions;
-From what I understand, the 105/205 of the PL are comparable to UC/Scratch X of the CL. Which set would be recommended for usage of both applications as I dont want to buy half of Mequiars inventory?
-If Sealants last longer than wax, why use wax for protection?
-I was told that it's ok to apply a sealant after DC2. Will the Sealant adhere to the paint through DC2?
-As a sealant needs a clean surface to adhere to, what is the best cleaner? DC2?

Thanks in advance

[Ravi_1992]

Re: So many questions

Hello Welcome to the club .


Hand-
1) well, since sratch x didn't help much , try UC by hand.
2) UC isn't used as a last step because it will offer little to no protection for your paint. UC with a cutting pad might leave hazing in the paint.
3) Go with UC, SwirlX (if theres hazing ), DC2 (optional), wax
4) Your supposed to wipe away all residue from DC1 before apllying DC2
5) DC2 is a pure polish so yes it does leave oils in the paint

Machine-

1) Generally for paint cleaners and compounds I use speed 3 to 4 to spread the product and the 5 to 6 to work it.
A pure polish like DC2 doesn't need to be worked , just spread with a couple of passes, same with wax.

General questions -

1) M105 is more aggressive than UC, there's some defects that UC might have trouble with . As for which are comparable, maybe UC followed by swirl X

2) For me its personal preference, sometimes I use both at the same time

3) Yes

4) Basically any cleaner/polish like UC , Swirl X , DC1 etc etc


Wow that was a lot of questions lol

[bleb_1]

Re: So many questions

Wow that was a lot of questions lol

Thanks. I got a lot more.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: So many questions

First off, seeing as you're new here, welcome to MOL!

For everything else, see our responses in red below:

I've been reading this and other forums, watching vids for the past few days and have quite a few questions. Since I'm lazy and look for the most efficient way to do things, I hope it's ok to put my questions in one thread as opposed to many.

I will start by saying I will be focusing on paint correction by hand and machine. I have to do this as I have 2 and 4 wheel rides.

Questions by hand;
-I tried Swirl X 2.0 with great results yet still see scratches. A couple more applications didnt help. I can still see scratches. Time to move up to UC or try again with a bit more passion? Sounds like time to move up. If 3 or 4 applications of a product are not taking care of the situation you need a more aggressive product. If a single proper application of a product makes literally zero change, it's also a good indication that you need something more aggressive.
-I've read that some use UC as a LSP. Wouldnt this leave a slight haze?We don't know of anyone using UC as a last step product (if you're out there, stop it!) but they could be going straight to LSP after UC - that's pretty common. Whether it will leave a haze or not is totally dependent on the paint and application process. But if the paint is indeed LSP ready after using UC, then so be it
-If UC can be used as a LSP, why bother with other products?See above....... and use an LSP
-I was considering the order, if product is needed, of UC to Scratch X 2.0 to Scratch X to Cleaner Wax (DC1) to Polish (DC2). Is this too much?Sounds like total and complete overkill. You should be able to get the job done with a quality initial defect removal product like UC or SwirlX, then maybe a pure polish like DC2 (which we always consider to be optional) and your LSP. If UC is leaving a bit of haze then SwirlX oftne makes for a great follow up to clean that up and add some polish in the process.
-Does DC2 remove any residue left by DC1?No, DC2 is a pure polish with no abrasives at all. Of course, an aggressive application of it will see the applicator pad itself act as a bit of an abrasive, and that might remove a little something.
-Does DC2 leave any residuals such as oils?Absolutely it does, that's what it is supposed to do - that's where the gloss comes from

Questions by machine;
-What are the proper speeds using the 7424 for the above products?
Defect removal steps should be done with a polishing pad on speed 5, pure polish and wax applications should be done with a finishing pad on speed 3. Keep in mind that these are just really good starting points and that some paint systems respond better to a little more speed, or a little less. Some like more pressure on the pad, some a bit less. This ain't called "the art of paint polishing" for nuthin'!

General questions;
-From what I understand, the 105/205 of the PL are comparable to UC/Scratch X of the CL. Which set would be recommended for usage of both applications as I dont want to buy half of Mequiars inventory?Comparable really only in the sense that M205 is less aggressive than M105 and ScratchX is less aggressive than UC. Yes, they all use the same family of SMAT abrasives but the cut levels are not equal between UC and M105 or between M205 and ScratchX. And actually, SwirlX is a better comparison to M205. But UC is far more forgiving on a D/A than M105 is, and for the vast majority of defect correction it is more than sufficient. We use UC in our Saturday classes and have yet to work on a demo car (ie, a student's car) that we couldn't remove defects from with this product. That includes some nasty swirls and etchings from what is supposed to be really hard paint.
-If Sealants last longer than wax, why use wax for protection?Sealants and carnaubas can appear visually different on different paints, and personal preference plays a huge role here. Plenty of people wax often enough that longevity isn't that big a deal to them, but they have a wax that they prefer for the appearance it gives (or that they perceive it to give - remember, a lot of this is in the eye of the beholder)
-I was told that it's ok to apply a sealant after DC2. Will the Sealant adhere to the paint through DC2?We can't speak for other company's products as some require totally clean paint for proper use, but all Meguiar's products are cross compatible. So if you want to use DC2 or M07 and finish off with M21 or NXT Tech Wax 2.0, go for it.
-As a sealant needs a clean surface to adhere to, what is the best cleaner? DC2?See above for starters, but otherwise, no. DC2, as has been stated, is a pure polish so it contains no abrasives of any kind and therefore won't clean the paint. DC1, although now discontinued, and SwirlX are both excellent choices for light cleaning ability. UC is too, but it's definitely more aggressive than either of those. If you seriously feel the need to remove any trace of product from the paint prior to LSP application (but after full correction, of course) then give a final wipe down with a 50/50 mix of isopropyl alcohol and water - the good ol' "IPA wipedown"

Thanks in advance

You're welcome! As a new member here you might want to read through our 5 Step Paint Care Cycle if you haven't already. Tons of good info in there.

[SVT Lightning]

Re: So many questions

Ooops...posted on the wrong page!