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  • starting point?

    I am new to the board. I have enjoyed reading and picking up some good info. I have a 2004 Competition Orange Mach 1 which I have had for about 3 months. It has been washed twice (at delivery) and once after the hood was repainted for some factory flaws (about 1 month ago). Don't get me started about that. My question is do I need to clay bar the car? Is this safe for the new paint on the hood?

    The car is in the garage most of time and is driven occasionally on nice sunny days. I am in Oklahoma so salt is not a problem but UV and heat are an issue in the coming spring and summer months. What products would you recommend to make the orange look it best as well as protect it? What are the proper steps for applying these products? Thanks in advance for the great advice.

  • #2
    I don't think that your hood has had enough time to cure yet, but I don't think it would hurt to clay it provided you use a lube that is body shop safe. By that, I mean something that won't seal the paint on the hood to the point that the paint vapors can't evaporate.

    M-3416 Final Inspection is ok to use as a clay lube on the hood (It is Body Shop safe)...The rest of the car shouldn't matter as the paint was cured at the factory, but I think, if it were me, I would use FI on the whole car just to make sure the hood gets no overspray from a lube that isn't body shop safe.

    BTW, welcome to the board!
    r. b.

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    • #3
      Rusty is right. It would be best to use a product without silicone. As far as starting points, read some of the other threads here and you'll get an idea of what to do. I will say that clay bars are great for perfectionist and it sounds like you got a nice ride! Can you post some pics?

      Slats
      -------------
      John 17:3
      -------------

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      • #4
        Welcome -- with the new car i would use a polish and NXT to get the finish off to a good start. If you start off right it will always look good.
        BTW - great ride you have there.

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        • #5
          Thanks for the great info! Rusty, how long should it take for the paint on the hood to properly cure? I know there are alot of variables which effect this such as temperature, humidity, etc. but what is a good rule of thumb? Thanks again to everyone. I will do some more searching to glean more helpful info from the board.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by OrangeRcode
            Thanks for the great info! Rusty, how long should it take for the paint on the hood to properly cure? I know there are a lot of variables which effect this such as temperature, humidity, etc. but what is a good rule of thumb? Thanks again to everyone. I will do some more searching to glean more helpful info from the board.
            Hi OrangeRcode,

            Welcome to Meguiar's Online!

            When was the hood repainted?

            Most painters recommend between 30 and 90 days for cure time before applying any product that will seal the paint. Your probably safe after the 30 day mark, but it's always best to follow the advise of your painter. The painter knows your paint type better than anyone else and undoubtedly attended classes conducted by the paint manufacture to learn how to use their paint system. Thus, the reason to follow his advise.

            Until his recommended time has passed, you can safely clay your finish and apply a body shop safe polish like the #81, (Which by the way will make your paint look awesome)

            After the recommended cure time, I would recommend the Tech Wax, and any of the Meguiar's car wash products for washing. Gold Class Car Wash and NXT Car Wash are both good choices.

            For a quick detailer, you could stick with Meguiar's Quik Detailer or Final Inspection, or I would recommend that you try D-51 Final Detail.



            It is only available in 1-gallon sizes, but you can pour it off into Meguiar's silk screened matching secondary bottles, or save a maroon, Quik Detailer bottle when it becomes empty and pour off into it. (The spray head on the Quik Detailer really does a good job of atomizing the liquid).

            Mike
            Mike Phillips
            760-515-0444
            showcargarage@gmail.com

            "Find something you like and use it often"

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            • #7
              It is only available in 1-gallon sizes, but you can pour it off into Meguiar's silk screened matching secondary bottles, or save a maroon, Quik Detailer bottle when it becomes empty and pour off into it. (The spray head on the Quik Detailer really does a good job of atomizing the liquid).



              Mike, I tried to order some dedicated product bottles w/ a sprayer head, but I was told that I had to order the whole case!

              Could the order rep have made a mistake?
              r. b.

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              • #8
                Ford Motor Company Rule of thumb is thirty days from the manufactures date on your body id card usaully located on the driver's door.. Most of the time the paint is fully cured before it leaves the dealership because do to shipping and time the car spent on the dealers lot it is cured. However rusty is 100% correct on the process
                Bill Orlando

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