Mike Phillips or other Pro's-question about Viper Paint!

[viper007]

hi guys, I have a red 2002 RT10.I find it tough to get much paint correction (mostly just swirls and very light scratches) out of the paint. I am using the PC (newer model) and LC pads with M105,205 and Menzerna FPII. Collinite to finish on a black pad. I did a few test spots over time.

I use the speed setting of 5 and do the proper passing method,etc.

I use mostly the Orange Pad and Yellow Pad for the M105. M205 I use the White LC pad. I clean the pads on the fly.

A good detailer did my car last year with good results but using a FLEX.

So, what are good combos for Dodge Viper paint (red 2002 RT10). The detailer said it was MEDIUM HARDNESS but I cannot seem to get many defects out with the above. Any ideas?

Is this paint hard or soft or?

Thanks! Kevin.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Mike Phillips or other Pro's-question about Viper Paint!

Technique is everything here. We've seen people do an outstanding on very hard paint with less aggressive products than you're using, so you should be able to attain the same. Speed 5 with the LC orange pad and M105 is a pretty aggressive process so let's see if we can refine your process just a bit.

Make sure you're getting the pad fully covered with product to start and then don't over use the M105 for subsequent sections. Once that pad is fully primed just a few drops should be enough to get you results. Make sure you're confining your work area to a space no larger than about 2' x 2' - maybe even a bit smaller. Use sufficient pressure to almost stop the pad from spinning, but not quite. Make sure that pad is very flat to the surface as tipping even just a bit on edge will stop the rotation. Put pressure on the top of the tool directly over the pad, not down toward the base of the tool where the cord comes out. And pay close attention to that pad orientation. This is one of the biggest mistakes we see people making in our Saturday Classes and we are constantly having them adjust the angle of the tool.

The other really common error is in moving the tool too quickly over the paint and/or not being very methodical in the movements. Move the pad s-l-o-w-l-y over the paint, overlap your passes by 50% and visually map out the area so that you're getting even and thorough coverage. Above all, take your time.

Follow up with M205 on a slower speed, with the softer pad, and experiment with the pressure a bit. This final, refining step can really depend on the responsiveness of the paint. Some like more pressure, some less.

But whatever you do, do a test spot first with M105 following the above tips very closely. Don't just do the whole car!

We have a regular at our Thursday Night Open Garages who drives a newer Viper than yours and we've always found that paint to be a breeze to work on. His first gen Viper (which he no longer has) wasn't anything out of the ordinary either. But neither of these is from the same model year as yours, and that does have the potential to change things pretty dramatically. Whether the paint on your car is truly hard, delicate or anywhere in between is impossible to say without actually working on it. But if the detailer you used previously though it was fairly middle of the road, so to speak, then the above process should serve you well.

[FinalTouchDetail]

Re: Mike Phillips or other Pro's-question about Viper Paint!

FWIW, I have not done a single detail job with my PC on a level lower than 6 for abrasive polishes (105, 205, SIP, etc...)

M105 and Orange is my starting point for any medium-hard clearcoat and it is certainly a sufficient combo to get correction out of your Viper using the Porter Cable. Depending on how it finishes off on the paint will determine what kind of finishing polish to follow it up with.

Like Michael said, work a small section and continue to work that section until you have achieved the correction you are looking for. This could come from a change in pressure on the pad, speed or pad you're using.

[viper007]

Re: Mike Phillips or other Pro's-question about Viper Paint!

THANKS MIKE and FTD. I have heard you should not use a cutting pad on the PC? Why is that? So just stick with a white using just M205? Do not use M105 AT ALL? on my PC?

So M205 with a white pad should get out most of the swirls and fine scratches? If so, then what should I use? I have NXT and Menzerna FP2 and COLLINITE wax. What other pad could I use if the WHITE does not work? Yellow?

thank you! Kevin.

[InfiniteDetail]

Re: Mike Phillips or other Pro's-question about Viper Paint!

You can use a cutting pad on a PC or G110. Keep in mind it may leave behind micro-marring that you will have to remove with a milder pad and product like M205 and a LC green pad.

In my experience, following M105 with M205 on a Meg's finishing pad or LC green pad removes the micro marring left by M105 and leaves a brilliant glossy finish.

Follow M205 with your favorite wax or sealant. Good luck

[viper007]

Re: Mike Phillips or other Pro's-question about Viper Paint!

thanks guys! Any other advice?

[Fly Bye]

Re: Mike Phillips or other Pro's-question about Viper Paint!

I have heard you should not use a cutting pad on the PC?

So just stick with a white using just M205? Do not use M105 AT ALL? on my PC?

The orange LC pad is what is known as a "light cutting" pad, and is commonly used on a PC. I don't think Mike advised againts 105 with a PC

[CHzo6]

Re: Mike Phillips or other Pro's-question about Viper Paint!

I believe he is referencing the Meguiar's Maroon cutting pad...

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Mike Phillips or other Pro's-question about Viper Paint!

The orange LC pad is what is known as a "light cutting" pad, and is commonly used on a PC. I don't think Mike advised againts 105 with a PC

Correct on both points. What I said was that M105 and the LC orange pad is a pretty aggressive process so the OP should be able to correct his paint with that. He made it sound as though he was struggling to do so, which is why I made suggestions about how he could refine his process in order to get the results we all know he should get with this combo.

I believe he is referencing the Meguiar's Maroon cutting pad...

Correct also. We do not recommend using our W7xxx series of cutting pads on a D/A as they tend to haze the paint. The LC orange pad is not quite as aggressive (and it uses different foam as well) so you should be just fine with that.


Always keep in mind that it isn't just the liquid and pad that get the job done - you have to use good technique with them (regardless of what they are) or you can't expect maximum results.