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Sooooo...I'm starting to detail my car tonight. I'm doing it over the next several days...because my car is disgusting. My process looks like this so far.
1) wash
2) clay
3)ummmm.
I've got some #7, cleaner wax, nxt 2.0 and gold class. And that, I think, is my order. Is this ok? Is it a little redundant/excessive? Did I mention my car is disgusting? Any advice is much appreciated
I wouldn't do a cleaner wax before NXT 2.0 because it'll have a tougher time bonding to the wax that is left versus bonding to the paint of the car.
I also think you'll love just the look of NXT 2.0 and wont need to do another application of Gold Class on top, but you can always do a test area to see if you can tell a difference.
Thanks for the advice so far! Yes, I do need to get some SwirlX. Maybe I'll get a bottle Friday evening and make a whole day out of detailing my car. I did read the 5-step article. I was just unsure of the order I should go in with the products I have at the moment. Is it normal to kick up a rabbit while claying?
Wash
Clay
Clean - SwirlX
Polish - Optional, but #7 would go here.
Wax
Wax
Obviously a stronger cleaner could be needed if you wanted everything perfect, no way ot say for sure until you try. But honestly, if this is your first time doing some detailing, I think you would be best shining it up with some SwirlX, and getting a good detail in. Then you will have time to look everything over, and see what all defects are there, what you may want to improve. And you'll have a little experience.
Personally I wouldn't even bother with applying SwirlX by hand. The amount of time invested for the return you will get isn't worth it to me.
If you want to get serious about correcting issues with your car save up ~150 bucks and get yourself a DA polisher, two cutting pads, one polishing pad, and that will be enough to get after it and get some real correction done.
I've got some #7, cleaner wax, nxt 2.0 and gold class. And that, I think, is my order.
Cleaner Wax is a mild abrasive that may remove #7. If you wanted to apply #7, you want to apply it after a cleaner, but before a wax. If you were to apply #7, Cleaner Wax would be out of the equation, as #7 goes in between the cleaner and the wax/sealant.
If you are set on NXT & Gold Class, Cleaner Wax would again be out of the equation as the wax may prevent the NXT from bonding.
Cleaner Wax is a mild abrasive that may remove #7. If you wanted to apply #7, you want to apply it after a cleaner, but before a wax. If you were to apply #7, Cleaner Wax would be out of the equation, as #7 goes in between the cleaner and the wax/sealant.
If you are set on NXT & Gold Class, Cleaner Wax would again be out of the equation as the wax may prevent the NXT from bonding.
If you want to get serious about correcting issues with your car save up ~150 bucks and get yourself a DA polisher, two cutting pads, one polishing pad, and that will be enough to get after it and get some real correction done.
You should stay away from using the cutting pads on the DA. They are not designed to be used together and you can cause a lot of hazing in the paint.
You should stay away from using the cutting pads on the DA. They are not designed to be used together and you can cause a lot of hazing in the paint.
I've never seen any hazing from using any type of pad on a DA that wasn't cleared up with a finer polish and pad application after, including using Foam/Wool Hybrid Kompressor compound pads.
Have you experienced something different?
FWIW, I also just pulled this up from Meguiar's Website:
W7207 Soft Buff 2.0 Foam Cutting Pad
Designed for professionals who require consistent and smooth defect removal, the Soft Buff 2.0 Foam Cutting Pad produces stunning results. This burgundy colored cutting pad is made from completely new, specially designed foam that retains its level of cut, feel and buffing characteristics, even under heavy use. The result is consistent, dependable defect removal and flawless results, time after time. When paired with a rotary buffer, the Soft Buff 2.0 Cutting Pad will optimize defect removal, speed and effectiveness. DA users can now expect exceptional defect removal traits while incorporating the inherent safety provided by a DA polisher
The original soft buff cutting pads were less appropriate for the DA I believe. I think these newer ones are supposed to work better.
As you say, any marring left behind can be easily cleaned up, however Meguiars is not going to make an official recommendation to do something that may leave marring behind. Thus, it isn't a 'recommended' practice, but something someone with some experience and practice could do.
Different paint will respond differently to pad/product combos, and I was giving this advice based on the fact that he has no experience with a machine. Also, the original pads can have the velcro backing separate from them when used with the DA. The OP would be much better off buying several polishing pads, not just 1 of them, and skip on the cutting pads until they determine how their paint responds to polishing by machine and gains some experience.
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