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'77 F-250 Oxidation. Pictures. Please Help!

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  • '77 F-250 Oxidation. Pictures. Please Help!

    I've got this old Ford, my dad bought it new and it has been in my family ever since. I'm a little attached to it and even though she pales in comparison to any new truck in almost every way, I'd still like to treat her right. The body was worked over and repainted sometime in the early to mid-nineties and it looked pretty good for a while, but oxidation appeared quickly, I assume because it is a single stage paint that wasn't properly cared for, and never let up. To make matters worse, the truck sat on the south side of my parents house for almost 10 years without an engine and no one ever even cleared snow off of it or rinsed off the dust.

    Last year, with the help of my buddy, we put the engine back in and got her road worthy again. Out of desperation, we bought some Color X and gave her a once over to see if the paint had any life left in it. Well as you can see, it did and I was super pleased, we threw a coat of cheap carnauba over the top of that and went on our merry way . Unfortunately there was no where to put the truck except in a carport next to an over-aggressive sprinkler system. Hard water caked one side of the truck and marred the finish. I naively decided that the best thing to do was take the truck to an automated car wash and get it cleaned up. BAD IDEA. It seemed to strip the wax off and almost instantly re-oxidize the once shining paint.

    I've learned my lesson now. I've found this forum and I come crawling to the experts. What is the best way to get this truck shiny and red again, and then keep it that way? Color X worked well before, but should I go more aggressive to take more of the bad paint off? Which finishing product will work as the best sealant to keep from undoing all of our hard work? I'm at your total mercy and am a complete n00b. I want to do this right, and I'm willing to put the time and (some) money into doing it. My initial plan was to thoroughly clean it with Meg's Gold Class wash and shampoo. I was going to follow that will a Smooth Surface Clay Kit treatment and then Color X. I was going to purchase a cheap buffer to get the work with the Color X done, but please advise since I don't know what I'm doing and I don't want to drop $100 on a buffer that I'll use only occasionally. After that I was going to finish it off with some NXT 2.0 paste or liquid. What do you think?

    Here she is during the engine installation. She's supposed to be Cardinal Red, not burnt orange.













    And this is one run of Color X, quite impressive on it's own. This is what I'd like to end up with, or better.














    And this is what she looks like today, after the car wash...










    And finally, here is a spot we did with some super abrasive metal polish, somehow it stayed nice, which makes me wonder if we shouldn't go stronger than Color X.




    Well, there you have it. I know it's not the best truck, there is cancer everywhere and the tailgate is rusted. The shell's clear coat is coming off and the passenger bedside was brutally attacked by the side of the garage one night many years ago. But it still pains me for her to look like she does. Please help. Many thanks in advance.

  • #2
    Re: '77 F-250 Oxidation. Pictures. Please Help!

    To even begin, I would want to go with:

    Wash
    Clay
    Clean - SwirlX
    Polish - Deep Crystal Polish or #7 Show Car Glaze. Maybe even 2 coats.
    Wax - Nxt 2.0
    Wax - 2 thin coats are best.

    If a stronger cleaner than that is needed, hard to say, depends on the results you want, etc. Can just get a good quality applicator, and try SwirLX by hand on a spot since ColorX seemed to work on a spot. Then see if you want more power, etc. And hopefully the paint is not shot, where it will deteriorate quickly no matter what.

    Also, if the clay loads up and gets very dirty very very fast, you can use the SwirlX first, then clay. And you could rub some SwirlX along the metal, just keep it off the rubber (and different applicator from paint).

    Also, Wash/Clay if needed/ColorX/Nxt makes for a nice fast detail in the future.
    2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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    • #3
      Re: '77 F-250 Oxidation. Pictures. Please Help!

      Since this is a single stage paint, you will need several wool pads, a polisher (keep in mind you dont wanna go with a polisher that has 7K RPM's, your gonna work around wit 1400 RPM's -1800 RPM'S. Kind of expensive but the machines you need would look like the Makita 9227C or 9727CX3 and the DeWalt 849. These machines have Variable speed controls.

      As we all know M105-M205 are great products and will work wonders on any type of paint, but people have commented to have better results with the M85,M83,M80 combo for single stage paints.

      Its incredible you got that results simple with ColorX, so next time try those combos with Wool Pads, Soft Buff 2.0 Polishing pads.

      I dont think that claying will do much thing since the paint its in such a bad shape but would be usefull to got with C-3000 aggressive clay over the truck.
      The cabin in the bed of the truck should get repainted, Nothing much you can do about that one.

      Also, dont buy "Some cheap carnauba wax" you can get at Target, if you want protection go for some M21, M20, or NXT 2.0 wich are more of a paint sealant and will really protect your finish and your hard work. After you put on that coat, you could use a carnauba based wax like GC or GC+ or M26 yellow tech wax.

      Maybe this Job from Superior Shine will give you and overall look of what you can get in your finish. Since this is a single stage paint they kinda look the same

      Click Here!

      Hope i helped .

      Cheers.

      Ryan
      Ryan's Auto Detailing, S.A
      Mobile Auto Detailing Company.
      Dominican Republic.

      Passion for Detailing, do it with love.

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      • #4
        Re: '77 F-250 Oxidation. Pictures. Please Help!

        Thanks for the info. For the record, the bed topper is shot and I know there isn't much that can be done with it. I'm fine with that, it's the truck's paint that I'm trying to figure out. Would I be better served with some of the commercial products like #105 or #205 as opposed to Scratch X or Color X? For a non-show-quality vehicle and paint job like this, will a cheaper DA buffer from the likes of Walmart suffice? Thank you.

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        • #5
          Re: '77 F-250 Oxidation. Pictures. Please Help!

          Originally posted by Ryan_Bihun89 View Post
          Since this is a single stage paint, you will need several wool pads, a polisher (keep in mind you dont wanna go with a polisher that has 7K RPM's, your gonna work around wit 1400 RPM's -1800 RPM'S. Kind of expensive but the machines you need would look like the Makita 9227C or 9727CX3 and the DeWalt 849. These machines have Variable speed controls.
          I wouldn't use a rotary machine nor a wool pad. Maybe we can see some people having great results with it but you need to keep in mind the experience people have with it. As mentioned, the OP has no experience as all. We don't wan to cause any problems or worse things.

          If you are considering getting a machine, a Dual Action Polisher would be a great choice, basically because it will help out, do a better job compared to hand and this machine is so versatile that you can use it no only on a neglected car, but also vehicles on your cause, to remove defects, apply wax, etc.

          Like Murr stated, I would wash/clay and polish the paint. When polishing I would consider going with dedicated products, like M105 or M205 or M80 or even Ultimate Compound or SwirlX, follow with a Pure Polish like M07 as this will be very beneficial and wax like M26.

          Also if you consider working by machine or hand, consider getting lots of pads and if a machine is used remember to clean your pad on the fly consistently.

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          • #6
            Re: '77 F-250 Oxidation. Pictures. Please Help!

            Originally posted by Brack 1 View Post
            Would I be better served with some of the commercial products like #105 or #205 as opposed to Scratch X or Color X?
            For a non-show-quality vehicle and paint job like this, will a cheaper DA buffer from the likes of Walmart suffice? Thank you.
            You don't need to use M105 or M205 necessary. You can go with Ultimate Compound and SwirlX because they are easier to find and get. I know that at the Meguiar's Garage they've done single stage paint with this combo and they've got great results.

            See this thread so you won't confuse Dual Action Buffer and Orbital Buffer.
            Machine Photos - Rotary Buffer - DA Polisher - Orbital Buffer

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            • #7
              Re: '77 F-250 Oxidation. Pictures. Please Help!

              Originally posted by yalerd View Post
              As mentioned, the OP has no experience as all. We don't wan to cause any problems or worse things.
              Sorry, i forgot about that :P
              ^+1 for yale.
              Ryan's Auto Detailing, S.A
              Mobile Auto Detailing Company.
              Dominican Republic.

              Passion for Detailing, do it with love.

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: '77 F-250 Oxidation. Pictures. Please Help!

                I would try and find some M83 and M80. They can be used by hand and when used on SS paint, they can produce great results. In fact, I just recieved M80 and M83 today to use in future details.

                If you do not want to go into a 2 step process then only use M80. It can really do a great job of cleaning and polishing paint especially SS paint (hence why it is a Cleaner/Polish ) lol.
                Tedrow's Detailing
                845-642-1698
                Treat Yourself to that New Car Feeling

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                • #9
                  Re: '77 F-250 Oxidation. Pictures. Please Help!

                  #80 is always good for single stage paint. I would still go with a pure polish no matter if you used SwirlX or #80 (or something stronger if needed.)

                  Those cheap polishers have shown to work sometimes with the new products (SwirlX and UC, etc) compared to not really working with the older products (#80 and #83, etc).

                  Nonetheless, can certainly do a test spot by hand and see what turns up.
                  2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

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                  • #10
                    Re: '77 F-250 Oxidation. Pictures. Please Help!

                    A DA (not an orbital from walmart) and some m105 and m205 and then some nxt would make all the difference in the world on that truck .....although I have never worked on a SS paint job that oxidized yet, wanna travel to FL so I can practice???

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                    • #11
                      Re: '77 F-250 Oxidation. Pictures. Please Help!

                      Stay away from the cheap orbitals. I would use the Ultimate compound and Swirl-x. If you can afford it get a G100/ G110. They will make your life a lot easier. The learning curve is short also.
                      quality creates its own demand

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                      • #12
                        Re: '77 F-250 Oxidation. Pictures. Please Help!

                        Thanks for all the great info. I'd love to buy a DA polisher, but I can't spend over $100 for something like that. Will a random orbit sander from a home improvement store work almost as well?

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                        • #13
                          Re: '77 F-250 Oxidation. Pictures. Please Help!

                          Thank you all once again for the info. I'm thinking that I've got this session all setup. A Gold Class wash, smooth surface clay, ultimate compound, and finally a couple of coats of nxt 2.0. I'll document the results. I wish my budget would allow for all of the professional tools and polishes suggested, but for a rusty old truck, I think this course of action will be best. Also, I'm going to try a smaller DA polisher, a Black and Decker WP900 6 inch unit, does anyone have experience with it?

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