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Black car: polish vs. glaze?

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  • Black car: polish vs. glaze?

    Hey guys,

    My first mistake was buying a black car (Accord in Nighthawk Black Pearl), my second was that I like to keep it clean, which could well turn into a part-time job.

    I'm new to trying the 5-step program, hoping it would get me some lasting results. I recently did the whole GC wash, clay, UC (hand) and NXT2.0 (hand), but I skipped the Polishing step, primarily because I couldn't find the Deep Crystal System Polish at the retailers I tried (WalMart, PepBoys and Advance).

    The results are very good, but lacking the deep, wet-look shine that I covet.

    Anyhow, I've decided to buy a G110V2 DA (also have a couple of other cars) and I've been doing a lot of reading, but remain very confused on the difference between all the available products;

    Code:
    [b]Deep Crystal System Polish[/b]
    
    Deep Crystal® System Polish is a [b]pure polish[/b] specially formulated for dark-colored cars. Clear coat safe, the formula creates a brilliant, high gloss finish by conditioning and nourishing paint through the replenishment of valuable oils. This makes dark colors darker and reflections deeper. It’s that extra step necessary to create an amazing wet-look show car shine.
    
    [b]M03 Machine Glaze[/b]
    
    Machine Glaze outshines all other machine applied polishes, glazes , waxes and sealants. Penetrating nutrients revitalize all paint finishes. Buffing residue wipes off easily. Restores original brilliance and clarity. Safe and effective on fiberglass, plastic and paint.
    
    [b]M05 New Car Glaze[/b]
    
    New Car Glaze produces a high gloss with minimum effort. Provides rich nutrients to restore paint's shine. Ideal for humid conditions. Safe and effect on fiberglass, plastic and paint.
    
    [b]M07 Show Car Glaze[/b]
    
    Show Car Glaze outshines all other hand applied polishes, glazes, waxes and sealants. Restores a dazzling, deep, wet shine. Show Car Glaze does not dry white and is safe and effective on all paint finishes.
    
    [b]M80 BSP Speed Glaze[/b]
    
    Speed Glaze provides paint shop safe protection. Removes light to moderate swirls, oxidation and paint defects. Restores a glistening "new paint" shine. Versatile – can be used with a rotary buffer (wool or foam pad), D/A polisher, orbital or by hand. Easy, low dusting wipe-off.
    
    [b]M82 BSP Swirl Free Polish[/b]
    
    Swirl Free Polish is a high performance polish that eliminates swirl marks fast. Specially blended polish with cleaning power removes fine scratches. Smooth, fast application and easy wipe-off. Restores a glistening "new paint" shine.
    
    [b]M83 BSP Dual Action Cleaner/Polish[/b]
    
    Dual Action Cleaner/Polish removes light to medium contamination, blemishes and oxidation that Swirl Free Polish will not. Combines the perfect amount of abrasive cleaner and pure, rich polish to produce a customer pleasing deep gloss shine. Safe, Buffered Abrasive™ cleaning removes defects without marring the finish.
    
    [b]M205 Ultra Finishing Polish[/b]
    
    Permanently removes swirls and light defects from all paints. Produces deep reflections and high gloss. Smooth-glide buffing feel and fast wipe-off.

    It seems that my choices are Pure Polish; DCSP, M03, M05 or M07, but how does (consumer) DCSP stack up to the (pro) "Glaze" products, and how do I decide what's right for me? I've also read some horror stories about M07 being difficult to remove.

    If I go the Cleaner Polish route, there are even more products to choose from; M09, M80, M82, M83 and M205. From my reading, M105+M205 seems to be a popular choice among the pro's, perhaps replacing the older M8x products.

    Bottom line is that I still have some correction to do. I could probably do another UC application via DA, or would it be better to combine this step with a cleaner polish, and then switch to a pure polish later on. What do the experts think?

    Thanks for reading.

  • #2
    Re: Black car: polish vs. glaze?

    Consumer line can be as good as the pro line.
    A full correction job from cons line usually needs UC, SwirlX/ScratchX, DC2, LSP
    Pro line using DAT technology: 95, 83, 80, #7, LSP
    Pro line using SMAT technology: 105, 205, LSP

    I never use the cons line, but a lot of people have been using it without problem
    As far as SMAT vs DAT, i've used them both and did 50-50 comparison, honestly i can't say the result were that much different, other than the SMAT technology works faster.

    As far as pure polish, it's optional. With clear coat on car nowadays i'd say the difference does not worth the effort of adding additional step in detailing the car, unless you have the time and energy to spend

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Black car: polish vs. glaze?



      What is the question

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Black car: polish vs. glaze?

        Originally posted by Fly Bye View Post

        What is the question
        Sorry it was a little verbose

        After trying to navigate the plethora of Meguiars products, I'm looking for recommendations on using a Polish or Glaze to improve the shine on a black car. Based on the product descriptions, I simply can't figure out which is best for me. My requirements are;

        1. Remove residual defects not addressed via hand application of UC.
        2. Leave a highly reflective, wet-look shine to the paint.
        3. Serve as a good base for NXT Tech Wax 2.0
        4. Perhaps optimistic, but I'd like to complete the process in 1/2 a day or less.

        I've decided to purchase a DA to improve the results and speed up the process. Given the latter constraint, SMAT seems like the way to go, so I'll probably use the rest of the UC I have. Based on nothelle's input, UC+205 or 105+205 seems to be the shortest path to fulfilling my objective.

        I also take it that M205 does not need to be followed by a "glaze" product. Is that correct?

        Thanks for your patience

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Black car: polish vs. glaze?

          From our recent experience with some (not all, but some) newer Honda paints, they can be very delicate and sensitive. This can make hand work a challenge, but they seem to respond beautifully to DA application.

          In all honesty, we would steer you away from M105 for this car, especially if your remaining defects are very light. Ultimate Compound ought to be more that sufficient to correct defects for you and it is much easier to work with on a DA than M105 is.

          As for the M205 - it is fantastic on even very delicate paint, especially when used with a W9207 black finishing pad on a DA at moderate speed. It will let you buff all day long, it's super easy to wipe off, and the level of clarity it can impart to a modern clear coat paint system is nothing short of stunning. In fact, it may be the only liquid you need to fully prep the paint prior to appliation of your favorite wax.
          Michael Stoops
          Senior Global Product & Training Specialist | Meguiar's Inc.

          Remember, this hobby is supposed to be your therapy, not the reason you need therapy.

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Black car: polish vs. glaze?

            Thanks Michael.
            My Accord is an '04 model, so assuming nothing changes (i.e. "newer" Honda paints), I'll take the UC+M205 path and top w/ NXT Tech Wax 2.0

            Comment

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