Lime Deposit

[zurcnivek]

Hey...Its the new guy. Not to long ago while i was parked in a underground garage when it rained all week this white stuff splattered on my car. It looked very similiar to bird droppings but im possitive its from the garage because other cars parked there also had it. I asked the sercurity from base about the incident and they said it happens alot when it rains. That Lime deposit comes down the cracks.

Anyways, luckly most of this lime deposit stuff feel on the back windshield and was easy taken off with windex, hot water and some fingure nail scratching here and there. Too bad it didnt work so well in the paint... I got most of it off with that method leaving much swirls(black car) and couldnt get off a small 1x1 size. The MP told me to limeaway....(the shower stuff?!) and i was horrified just thinking about what will happen if i did. Now i dont know how to take it off or just leave it to the experts for the big bucks?

-I have a DA Gv110v2 handy.
-I've already tried a clay bar and soft foam pads.
-I am a loser for scratching it with my fingure nails.
-Have nightmares with lime away.

[StadiumDetail]

Re: Lime Deposit

White Vinegar? It is worth a shot.

As for Lime away, I would think that as long as you are really careful and have everything on hand to get it off right away your paint should be fine, but I would do that as an absolute last resort.

[StadiumDetail]

Re: Lime Deposit

A bit o copy/paste from google. It's a bit more info that I hope can help.


Lime scale is a chalky white mineral deposit (alkaline) which is a result of hard water. It often occurs on faucets and in tubs and appliances, such as kettles and coffeemakers and can leave silver and chrome with a gray dullness. White vinegar contains acetic acid and is a great place to start for cleaning these pesky stains.


Nine times out of ten, the source of lime on paint is from long-term parking in a concrete parking garage. When water drips off of concrete and onto your vehicle's paint, it brings with it a tiny bit of calcite and mineral deposits, which dries on the paint when the water evaporates, leaving a light colored streak that won't wash off. Lime on glass windows can be carefully removed with a razor. Lime on paint or plastic must be removed using mild acid, also known as water spot remover. Obviously, acids can be harsh, so water spot remover must not be allowed to dry on the paint. Lime can etch and discolor the paint, especially when combined with rust stains from the rebar inside the concrete-so get it off ASAP.

[DetailArtist]

Re: Lime Deposit

Muriatic acid on a wet car fixes it immediately. Don't worry, it doesn't affect paint, I've done this several times for that common problem in NYC parking garages. It will however melt your skin and eyeballs, so wear eye protection, gloves and work upwind. And hold your breath, the fumes will kill you.
For professional use only. And only for the brave.

[TOGWT]

Re: Lime Deposit

[And hold your breath, the fumes will kill you. For professional use only. And only for the brave.]

...and foolhardy, why use a sledgehammer to crack a walnut?

[DetailArtist]

Re: Lime Deposit

...and foolhardy, why use a sledgehammer to crack a walnut?

Well, sometimes you need to break a few eggs to make an omelate.

Maybe you're right; recomending the use of harsh chemicals to inexperianced wrong hands can be foolhardy. (But I did say for professional use only.) Expediating the process and getting the best results part of the game of professional detailing. It also depends on the problem; bigger problems require different techniques (often times harsh)to get the job done. Those mineral deposits don't polish or wash off.
Sometimes sledgehammers persuade better than nutcrackers but only IF you know how to use them properly.

[TOGWT]

Re: Lime Deposit

That’s a well thought out response.

The reason I’m cautious in my recommendations is that the neophyte detailer will try to find out what the pro detailer is using,” after all they should know they do this for a living” and they will try to emulate their methods and use their products. So “For Professional Use” tends to encourage its use

[zurcnivek]

Re: Lime Deposit

After doing a little googling I tried 2x2 alcohol pad, nail polish remover w/ acetone, and viniger. I also completely washed the area after each use to stick on the safe side.I forgot to mention that the small spot left on the car was there since the begining of this past winter. The car was also left in one area for 2 months with no attention because of my deployment. So basicly it sat through record breaking snow storms in DC.

My last options are:
1-Muriatic acid(as suggested)
2-CLR or limeaway
3-Take it to the pros

[StadiumDetail]

Re: Lime Deposit

After doing a little googling I tried 2x2 alcohol pad, nail polish remover w/ acetone, and viniger. I also completely washed the area after each use to stick on the safe side.I forgot to mention that the small spot left on the car was there since the begining of this past winter. The car was also left in one area for 2 months with no attention because of my deployment. So basicly it sat through record breaking snow storms in DC.

My last options are:
1-Muriatic acid(as suggested)
2-CLR or limeaway
3-Take it to the pros

If it has been sitting that long then you are going to have to resort to much stronger methods than what you have tried so far. If it has calcified it is going to be a pain to get off and take a lot of time and effort even with the stronger chemicals. Ever tried to remove milk that has dried on something for a long time, the stuff is hard as a rock and bonded to the surface, you have the same problem here.

[TOGWT]

Re: Lime Deposit

Try the acidic (B) part of a decontamination system (ValuGard's Decontamination Kit) otherwise it can be removed by using an abrasive polish or by wet-sanding

[DetailArtist]

Re: Lime Deposit

By coincidence, I took care of a car today that had really ugly lime deposits on the hood, courtesy a parking garage in Manhattan. Stuff looked like seagull poop, and tough as nails, totally resists ordinary washing. It has no texture, more of a white stain.
Hosed the car down, dribbled on the muriatic acid, deposits dissolved in about 3-4 seconds, and left absolutely no "ghosts" or streaks behind.
Of course, I forgot to photograph it. But I was busy w/ acid in 1 hand, a hose in the other.
Muriatic acid quart cost $2.99 in local hardware store.

[Bill Davidson]

Re: Lime Deposit

By coincidence, I took care of a car today that had really ugly lime deposits on the hood, courtesy a parking garage in Manhattan. Stuff looked like seagull poop, and tough as nails, totally resists ordinary washing. It has no texture, more of a white stain.
Hosed the car down, dribbled on the muriatic acid, deposits dissolved in about 3-4 seconds, and left absolutely no "ghosts" or streaks behind.
Of course, I forgot to photograph it. But I was busy w/ acid in 1 hand, a hose in the other.
Muriatic acid quart cost $2.99 in local hardware store.

Too bad you didn't get that photograph it would have been cool to see. Sounds like you'd need an assistant with a decent camera, if you want a series of real-time photos.

[TOGWT]

Re: Lime Deposit

The paint used for modern clear coats is porous, which means an acid will permeate the paint matrix. If it is not neutralized with an alkaline it will be subject to reactivity each time water and heat come in contact with the surface

[DetailArtist]

Re: Lime Deposit

Acid was on the damaged ares for only 3-4 seconds, the surface was wet, it was thoroughly rinsed, no problems. I disagree; muriatic acid does not affect paint. I've fixed at least a dozen cars using this process. The acid can also be diluted w/ water, it would just slow down the deposit removal.
And thats how lime deposits on a car are correctly repaired quickly and efficently. Never had a problem during the acid etch or when the car is seen in a few months. Issues can only occur w/ careless handling, like spilling it on your sneakers, failure to wear hd rubber gloves or eye protection or working downwind.

[TOGWT]

Re: Lime Deposit

Hydrofluoric acid (Muriatic Acid)

Historically called muriatic acid or spirits of salt that is a solution of hydrogen fluoride in water, it is corrosive, meaning it will have a detrimental (and sometimes unrecoverable effect on surfaces it’s applied too) and it is also highly poisonous. The application instructions usually state- ‘apply, but do not allow product to remain on the surface for more than 30 seconds before removal with a strong stream of water’.

Skin contact with concentrated hydrofluoric acid or inhalation of its vapour has caused many serious injuries, even death. Concentrated solutions of hydrofluoric acid pass quickly through the skin and cause deep, painful burns. Dilute solutions also penetrate the skin, but it does not give the immediate burning sensation caused by the concentrated form of the acid, a user may tend to be less aware of the contact with the acid.

There are specific ordinance to enforce Hydrofluoric acid hazard spill control / exposure and treatment methods and specific materials, most of which are just not going to be in the enthusiast or even mobile detailer's toolkit, non-compliance can result in heavy penalties.

It also has the unique ability to dissolve almost all inorganic oxides. In the human body, hydrofluoric acid reacts with calcium and damages nerves, bone, and several organs including the heart and kidneys - Hydrofluoric acid - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrofluoric_acid

Chemists say it's the Fluoride ions in HF and ABF (NH (4) F) that make many wheel cleaners and pre-soaks so potentially dangerous. Whether fluoride ions enter body tissues as the result of inhalation or skin contact, they cause deep, progressive burning that may quickly lead to multi-organ failure and death. Long-term exposure to even minimal amounts of ABF can lead to brittle bones, weight loss, anaemia, and calcified ligaments

Muriatic Acid (Hydrochloric acid)

Historically called muriatic acid or spirits of salt, hydrochloric acid was produced from vitriol and common salt. Hydrochloric acid is the solution of hydrogen chloride (HCl) in water. It is a highly corrosive, strong mineral acid and has major industrial uses.


An extract from “Using Acids for Cleaning ”and “Detailing Chemicals Identification” , one of a series of 119 unbiased “The Science of Detailing” technical papers, a library of educational materials that has become the #1 reference for car care on the Internet

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