HOw to apply #83, #23?????

[leox5]

I have the #23, #83, and makita polisher with W7000 softbuff cutting pad.

Are these product enough to remove water spots and make my car shiny again?

How should i apply the #83? directly on to the paint or applt the product on the rotary buffer and then buff it out?

[Mike Phillips]

Re: How to apply #83, #23?????

Originally posted by leox5
I have the #23, #83, and Makita polisher with W7000 softbuff cutting pad.

Are these product enough to remove water spots and make my car shiny again?

How should i apply the #83? directly on to the paint or apply the product on the rotary buffer and then buff it out?

Hi leox5,

Welcome to Meguiar's Online!

First, if you haven't already, you should clay your car. Always remove the contaminants sitting on top of the surface before tackling the contaminants under the surface.

Second, There are two kinds of water spots,

1) Above Surface Mineral Deposits
2) Below Surface Water Spot Etchings


Type 1 water spots
If you have type 1 water spots, you can use a clay bar by hand. Clay bars are for removing above surface defects. Sometimes you may have to follow the claying process with a paint cleaner like ScratchX to completely remove all traces of where the mineral deposits attached to the finish.

Type 2 water spots
If you type 2 water spots, you can use a paint cleaner by hand, or a machine applied cleaner/polish, paint cleaner or in a worst case scenario, a compound.

Just to be clear, removing Type 2 Water Spots means removing paint. As such, you are limited as to how much paint you can remove before removing too much and going through the clear coat or in the case of a single-stage, going to far and exposing primer.

As far as how to apply the #83 for use with a Rotary Buffer, the best technique to use it to learn how to pick up a bead or strip of product while you're buffing. You can learn how to do this by watching our video, To Purchase the PES101V, click the below link,

"How to remove paint defects"

Some people like to pour out some product and then smear it around with the pad and then turn their rotary buffer on, this tends to throw splatter however.

Hope this helps...

Mike

[Boss_429]

As always, Mike provided you with some excellent info. Hopefully, I'll add a couple other hints...........

Always try to deal "quickly" with situations that tend to create "bad" water spots. As follows.........

Water spots from water sprinklers............. get them off quickly..... PERIOD!!!!!!!!!!

If you hand wash, and you have "hard" water, make sure to dry the vehicle thoroughly, but gently. Always good to use a quality QD and some good MF's after the drying to insure that any bad stuff is removed from the paint.

If you have to use a "touchless" car wash to wash your vehicle, try and get it hand washed as soon as possbile, or use the touchess car wash in conjunction with a good waterless wash to get the paint clean and dry. The "recycled" water at those touchless car washes is tough on paint.

Always try and keep a good, fresh coat of wax or sealant on your vehicle to help protect it from the above, and keep some QD, and some MF's in the vehicle to use in case the situation warrants it.

In the end, you want to prevent the water spots from getting to "Type 2" water spots. (or worse - etched all the way through the clear to the base coat)

Hope this adds some additional insight.

[Tim Lingor]

Great advice!!!

The best way to deal with water spots is preventing them in the first place. But sometimes in certain situations, that just may not be possible. In those cases, the information above should take care of it!

Tim