Orange Peel - Single Stage

[daveb_vt]

Painted car on Wednesday night using PPG Omni MTK acrylic urethane Single Stage and my last coat has a lot of orange peel.

Is my best bet to wet sand with 1500 or buff out?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Dave

[TOGWT]

Re: Orange Peel - Single Stage

Orange Peel-

Is paint film surface that has a dimpled appearance that paint takes on due to an equipment/operator caused defect. Like wrong paint-gun pressure and/or distance from panel, an operator not knowing how to set-up the equipment for that particular type of paint, or even a partly blocked paint-gun nozzle, improper pre-paint preparation and /or paint application, or uneven drying of the clear coat.

It should be eliminated after the final shooting of clear coat by wet sanding the paint film surface, and polishing with a mildly abrasive polish and a high-speed rotary polisher.

Correction- it can be removed (with limitations) by wet-sanding (colour sanding)

[Mary S]

Re: Orange Peel - Single Stage

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6f8EQNVxxbw

This is the first of a worthwhile 5-part Meguiars series on wet sanding and use of rotary (which you would need to buff out the sanding scratches with a compound).

My understanding is just buffing with a compound isn't enough (I wish it were, because I have mild orange peel on my factory paint). But someone with more knowledge may correct me.

[TOGWT]

Re: Orange Peel - Single Stage

Colour Sanding / Polishing

Years ago it was called colour sanding because automotive paints were single-stage (primer and a colour coat) and when the finish faded from ultra violet radiation (UVR) exposure, sanding off the oxidized paint thereby exposing the underlying paint would bring back the paint surface colour. Then, as now, most sanding was done wet so the terms colour sanding, wet sanding and as all these process involves a sanding block, block sanding all became interchangeable whether you were sanding for colour or for a level surface.

I am never too keen to colour sand factory paint, but any aftermarket paint is a great candidate. Don't start with less than 1500 grit finishing paper unless you have lots of material to work with or some serious imperfections. Block wet sanding (finishing paper and a sanding block) is the most effective tool for paint defect removal only because you can sand the paint surface flat until the defects are removed. Non- diminishing abrasives and a flat foam pad are similar in application.

This kind of work should only be undertaken by a very experienced enthusiast or a professional detailer; experienced in colour-sanding (wet-sanding) / paint renovation, more so than detailing, someone who uses a paint thickness gauge (PTG) to measure and document the vehicles paint. This is a technique that takes a lot of practice to perfect.

This statement is not meant to question anything related to your detailing skills or abilities; just a caution as to the risks involved

[daveb_vt]

Re: Orange Peel - Single Stage

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6f8EQNVxxbw

This is the first of a worthwhile 5-part Meguiars series on wet sanding and use of rotary (which you would need to buff out the sanding scratches with a compound).

My understanding is just buffing with a compound isn't enough (I wish it were, because I have mild orange peel on my factory paint). But someone with more knowledge may correct me.

Thanks for the link to the videos I watched all 5 parts to get a basic idea of what to expect. I worked on the car a little this afternoon with 1500 and it looks a little better, I'm just going to take my time and see what happens.

Worst case would be a repaint this fall but after working all fall/winter on the body work I want to be able to enjoy this summer.

[daveb_vt]

Re: Orange Peel - Single Stage

Colour Sanding / Polishing

Years ago it was called colour sanding because automotive paints were single-stage (primer and a colour coat) and when the finish faded from ultra violet radiation (UVR) exposure, sanding off the oxidized paint thereby exposing the underlying paint would bring back the paint surface colour. Then, as now, most sanding was done wet so the terms colour sanding, wet sanding and as all these process involves a sanding block, block sanding all became interchangeable whether you were sanding for colour or for a level surface.

I am never too keen to colour sand factory paint, but any aftermarket paint is a great candidate. Don't start with less than 1500 grit finishing paper unless you have lots of material to work with or some serious imperfections. Block wet sanding (finishing paper and a sanding block) is the most effective tool for paint defect removal only because you can sand the paint surface flat until the defects are removed. Non- diminishing abrasives and a flat foam pad are similar in application.

This kind of work should only be undertaken by a very experienced enthusiast or a professional detailer; experienced in colour-sanding (wet-sanding) / paint renovation, more so than detailing, someone who uses a paint thickness gauge (PTG) to measure and document the vehicles paint. This is a technique that takes a lot of practice to perfect.

This statement is not meant to question anything related to your detailing skills or abilities; just a caution as to the risks involved

No offense taken, this is my first paint job and I have learned a lot. My issue was with my gun setup, test pieces looked great but they were small pieces and when I did the car I didn't realize how much drier the paint was at the tips of the spray fan.

After sanding and polishing the car I won't let that happen again!!