G100 BUFFER NEEDS PADS and a backing plate

[DARTICUS]

All my pads are old and I need new pads. I have the red backing plates that my old pads used, I guess they are glued to the red plates. Mike mentioned Soft Buff 2.0 pads and The W68DA backing plate. How are these put together, Glued? Can I use my old red backing plates that screw onto my G100 buffer with the Soft Buff 2.0 pads? Thanks Ron

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: G100 BUFFER NEEDS PADS and a backing plate

Hey darticus

Are you talking about the pads that you can remove from the backing plate itself that attaches and releases pads by a velcro backing thats on the foam pad itself?

What's got me confessed is that you stated that,
(I guess they are glued to the red plates)

[DARTICUS]

Re: G100 BUFFER NEEDS PADS and a backing plate

Hey darticus

Are you talking about the pads that you can remove from the backing plate itself that attaches and releases pads by a velcro backing thats on the foam pad itself?

What's got me confessed is that you stated that,
(I guess they are glued to the red plates)

The backing plates that came with the G100 are red and the pads are glued to the backing pad as I ripped off. These are 10 years old. How do the newer ones mount? SEE PICS

[tcope1]

Re: G100 BUFFER NEEDS PADS and a backing plate

How do the newer ones mount?

With hook and loop (Velcro).

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: G100 BUFFER NEEDS PADS and a backing plate

Hey darticus

check this out!

http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/w67da.html

[DARTICUS]

Re: G100 BUFFER NEEDS PADS and a backing plate

Hey darticus

check this out!

http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/w67da.html

Someone said to get the W68DA backing plate but its 35.00. Why so much??? Thanks Ron

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: G100 BUFFER NEEDS PADS and a backing plate

Someone said to get the W68DA backing plate but its 35.00. Why so much??? Thanks Ron

I quess just personal preference, like I prefer applying my lsp my hand with a paste.

Check it out for yourself, and make your own jugdement.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-41771694353694_2090_42570488

[DARTICUS]

Re: G100 BUFFER NEEDS PADS and a backing plate

I quess just personal preference, like I prefer applying my lsp my hand with a paste.

Check it out for yourself, and make your own jugdement.
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-4177169..._2090_42570488

You mean hand rub with a pad not a buffer? What is lsp? Ron

[Daniel Kinder]

Re: G100 BUFFER NEEDS PADS and a backing plate

you mean hand rub with a pad not a buffer? yes


what is lsp? Ron

(last step product) your wax or sealant

[DARTICUS]

Re: G100 BUFFER NEEDS PADS and a backing plate

(last step product) your wax or sealant

Cool!
Years ago (10 years) I don't think we had claying and just used a #9 polish to buff out fine scratches and than wax. Is this #9 like SwirlX but now we use claying than SwirlX? Will SwirlX remove the fine stuff without claying? Also do you use a painters tape to cover areas where rubber or plastic meet the auto paint to keep polish and wax off? Thanks again Ron

[ClearlyCoated]

Re: G100 BUFFER NEEDS PADS and a backing plate

Someone said to get the W68DA backing plate but its 35.00. Why so much??? Thanks Ron

Only $23 at ADS and $22.50 at detailing.com

[Michael Stoops]

Re: G100 BUFFER NEEDS PADS and a backing plate

Hi Darticus, and welcome to MOL! Good to see you over here from the Crossfire forum!


The old pads you were using had the backing plate permanently attached to the pad, and we no longer manufacture these for D/A use. The system that everybody uses these days, whether Meguiar's or not, is a single backing plate with a hook & loop facing that accepts any number of pads with the associated hook & loop backing. (Well, technically, the plate has the hook and the pad has the loop, but you get the idea). This makes it much easier to change pads part way through a detail, and to change from a polishing pad when correcting defects to a finishing pad for your wax or sealant application.

Products like M09 Swirl Remover 2.0 still exist, but have been eclipsed by things like M205 Ultra Finishing Polish on the pro side, and even SwirlX and Ultimate Compound on the consumer side. In fact, these two new consumer products will generally outperform several of our pro line products, depending on use, hardness of paint, and ultimate goal. For your Crossfire you're probably going to be best served by going straight to Ultimate Compound on a W8207 or W8006 yellow foam polishing pad. You'll use this exactly the same way you used to use M09 but you will likely be able to buff longer with a given amount of product, and get a better overall result in less time. From personal experience, the paint on the Crossfire is very hard and requires a fairly aggressive approach to correct. Don't be afraid of going straight to UC - we've gone way beyond that on other Crossfires in the past, but those had severe swirls and/or water spotting and required fairly extreme measures.

Your Crossfire is new and in very good shape - UC should be able to remove any light defects fairly easily and prepare the surface to properly accept your wax or sealant. Apply that product with a W9207 foam finishing pad at a slower speed (3 or 4), spreading a thin, uniform coat of wax over all the painted surfaces of the car. Then let it dry for 30 minutes or so before wiping off with a clean microfiber towel. Products like NXT Tech Wax 2.0, Gold Class, M20, M26 etc will wipe off with practically no effort when applied very thin and allowed to fully dry.

[DARTICUS]

Re: G100 BUFFER NEEDS PADS and a backing plate

Hi Darticus, and welcome to MOL! Good to see you over here from the Crossfire forum!


The old pads you were using had the backing plate permanently attached to the pad, and we no longer manufacture these for D/A use. The system that everybody uses these days, whether Meguiar's or not, is a single backing plate with a hook & loop facing that accepts any number of pads with the associated hook & loop backing. (Well, technically, the plate has the hook and the pad has the loop, but you get the idea). This makes it much easier to change pads part way through a detail, and to change from a polishing pad when correcting defects to a finishing pad for your wax or sealant application.

Products like M09 Swirl Remover 2.0 still exist, but have been eclipsed by things like M205 Ultra Finishing Polish on the pro side, and even SwirlX and Ultimate Compound on the consumer side. In fact, these two new consumer products will generally outperform several of our pro line products, depending on use, hardness of paint, and ultimate goal. For your Crossfire you're probably going to be best served by going straight to Ultimate Compound on a W8207 or W8006 yellow foam polishing pad. You'll use this exactly the same way you used to use M09 but you will likely be able to buff longer with a given amount of product, and get a better overall result in less time. From personal experience, the paint on the Crossfire is very hard and requires a fairly aggressive approach to correct. Don't be afraid of going straight to UC - we've gone way beyond that on other Crossfires in the past, but those had severe swirls and/or water spotting and required fairly extreme measures.

Your Crossfire is new and in very good shape - UC should be able to remove any light defects fairly easily and prepare the surface to properly accept your wax or sealant. Apply that product with a W9207 foam finishing pad at a slower speed (3 or 4), spreading a thin, uniform coat of wax over all the painted surfaces of the car. Then let it dry for 30 minutes or so before wiping off with a clean microfiber towel. Products like NXT Tech Wax 2.0, Gold Class, M20, M26 etc will wipe off with practically no effort when applied very thin and allowed to fully dry.

Thanks for the info. I narrowed it down to
Gold Class Wash
TEST for needing Claying
Claying
SwirlX
Tech wax 2.0 and Gold class
Do think I need the Ultimate Compound Step on a newer car mostly garaged?
Do you think the SwirlX or UC should be done by hand or G100 as I'm afraid of damaging the paint with the G100.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: G100 BUFFER NEEDS PADS and a backing plate

You purchased your car just recently, but it's a 2008 model year vehicle, right? If so, don't count on the dealer having given the car serious TLC during the year it was in their possession. With your car being silver it's going to hide fine defects pretty well, but that doesn't mean you can't strive for the ultimate finish from it, and silver can look pretty incredible when done right.

Don't be afraid to use the D/A on your car, you're not going to hurt anything. Besides, you've got prior experience using it on your Corvette in the past. And definitely go for the UC; SwirlX most likely isn't going to be quite strong enough for the very hard paint on the Crossfire.

[DARTICUS]

Re: G100 BUFFER NEEDS PADS and a backing plate

You purchased your car just recently, but it's a 2008 model year vehicle, right? If so, don't count on the dealer having given the car serious TLC during the year it was in their possession. With your car being silver it's going to hide fine defects pretty well, but that doesn't mean you can't strive for the ultimate finish from it, and silver can look pretty incredible when done right.

Don't be afraid to use the D/A on your car, you're not going to hurt anything. Besides, you've got prior experience using it on your Corvette in the past. And definitely go for the UC; SwirlX most likely isn't going to be quite strong enough for the very hard paint on the Crossfire.

Thanks again gotta get some UC.
My Vette look great in black. Ron