First black car - '86 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z

[86TurboZ]

I've just started the color sanding on my first black car. So far it's coming out ok but I have the 'gray' issue.

I started with some 3M compound I used on my other Daytona then once the surface was free of the 2000 sanding marks I used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. The surface is smooth and scratch free but still a bit gray.

I have purchased an orbital buffer with 5 different pads rangiing from orange, yellow, white, black and blue.

I'm not exactly sure what the next step is and I need to work on it soon.

Could someone please advise me so I may continue with the rest of the car and be confident that the paint will turn out as black as before the wet sanding?

I appreciate your help and thanks in advance.

[Markus Kleis]

Re: First black car - '86 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z

86TurboZ,

Welcome to MOL!

Before we begin addressing your questions, I would like to suggest that you create a new, dedicated thread in the Detailing 101 section.

This section of the forum is really just so new members can tell us about themselves, and we can all say "hello."

You will get more help (and traffic) in Detailing 101 as well.

Thanks!

Mark

[86TurboZ]

Re: First black car - '86 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z

I'm sorry about that. If I may ask, is it possible for you to 'move' this topic to that forum and I'll start an 'introduction' topic here. I realized I had gotten to the point before I did the intro after I had submitted the topic. If it is not possible to move them please delete it and I'll start over.

Thanks.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: First black car - '86 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z

We've moved this to Detailing 101 - feel free to start a new intro thread if you wish.




Regarding your project - is this a base coat/clear coat paint system? What did you use to remove the 2000 grit marks - which rotary, pad, compound? How did you sand the panel in question, by hand or D/A? What sandpaper did you use? It sounds as though you may not have truly removed all the sanding marks or you hazed the surface with the first compound and just haven't gotten all that out.

Come back with a bit more info and we'll proceed from there.

[86TurboZ]

Re: First black car - '86 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z

Thanks for moving this topic. I'll do an intro in that section soon.

The paint is base/clear. I used some 3M 2000 wet with a sanding pad by hand keeping the surface wet during sanding. I can see no sanding marks at all after the compound process.

The tools were.....

Porter Cable 7424XP with Lake Country Pads
Yellow and 3M polishing compound
Orange with Meguiar's Ultimate compound

So far that's as far as I've gone. I want to be sure that the next step will be a productive step. I have the rest of the car to do so if I need to change something before I start sanding on the other panels I want to get the information now as to not damage the paint or waste time.

The surface is smooth without sanding marks and minimal swirling. I have not yet seen it in the sun after yesterday's efforts to complete an earlier job with different tools but same compounds.

I believe that the surface is now ready for the next step. Is that the polish then wax or do I need a step prior to that?

[KC's]

Re: First black car - '86 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z

welcome to MOL turbo86

[Michael Stoops]

Re: First black car - '86 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z

The surface is smooth without sanding marks and minimal swirling. I have not yet seen it in the sun after yesterday's efforts to complete an earlier job with different tools but same compounds.

I believe that the surface is now ready for the next step. Is that the polish then wax or do I need a step prior to that?

If you're happy with your progress thus far, then your next logical step would be something like M205 to further refine the finish. Use this with a finishing or fine polishing pad on your XP at speed 4 and work it for a good long time. Make sure you are 60 - 90 days out from the paint application before you wax though.

[86TurboZ]

Re: First black car - '86 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z

Thanks Michael. The paint was applied in the spring. It was 6 or 8 months before I began the wet sanding.

Now I'll put my hands on some 205 and go to town. I'll keep you posted. I hope to have the car at the All Chrysler Carlisle show in July.

[86TurboZ]

Re: First black car - '86 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z

While I was hopefully confident that this stuff would work as advertised based on the tutorial videos and other's testimonials I had to see it for my self.

I didn't wet sand the hood any further though I still may.

I had already purchased the buffer (DA) and pads. This week I picked up some 105 and some 205.

All I did was go over the hood again but this time with the 105 and then 205.

After the 105 the difference was dramatic. I found some scratches from dirt in the 2000 wet sanding and buffed them totally out.

Next it was time for the 205. I didn't notice as dramatic a difference mainly because of the lighting but the details I saw in the paint before were gone.

After that was the Next Generation Tech Wax. The temperature outside was between 68 and 72. I applied it with a buffer and didn't apply enough. I saw streaks when I took it out of the garage and into the cloudy but not totally overcast sky. So I applied the wax again this time by hand and using the trick when you can tell when to remove the residue I waited 10 minutes then 10 minutes more. So after 20 minutes or so I lost patience and had to see what it looked like so I wiped away the residue left by the wax. It took a little effort to remove it all. Once I thought I had it all off I still saw streaks and once I turned the microfiber towel over again and wiped it again, the streaks were gone and the finish was like a mirror.

Not too bad for a totally non-professional (did it myself) paint job.

Thanks Meguiar's. I can't wait to get the rest of the car wet sanded and buffed.

[StadiumDetail]

Re: First black car - '86 Dodge Daytona Turbo Z

When you apply the wax, it should be very very thin, barely visible on the paint, and to me it sounds like you used too much rather than too little. When removing the wax you need to do the finger swipe test first, run your finger along the dried wax and see if the swipe is left clean or if there is still residue and needs to "set" longer. If you are having too much trouble removing the wax, you said it took a little effort, then too much is being applied. The effort should be minimal, no more than simply wiping a towel along the paint. There was a thread here from Expertcarpetcare, he had this same problem and it would be worth the read for you.

found it: http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...ad.php?t=39164