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Re: M105 with rotary trouble
I'm going to agree with Tim and Chris on this one. While there are some causes of product gumming that additional pressure could possibly fix, in your case this might be a bad suggestion. It takes time, skill, and experience to really learn the way a rotary reacts and to learn to control it like an extension of your arm.
As Mr. Stoops said, there are certain and conditions that don't work with certain polishes. This is not a knock on the polish, but rather a factor of the infinite amount of variables you as you polish in a dynamic environment. What type of paint was it? How old is it? How much has the paint weathered or how healthy is the paint? What products have been used to maintain it through out its life? Have chemicals leached into the paint? The list goes on an on, each injecting another variable into the equation, with out even considering the person doing the polishing, his technique and experience, the type of machine, the speed of the machine, the pad being used, the environmental conditions, and the type of polish.... Quantum Detailing Physics 101.
So M105 isn't working on this paint, and if I read the thread continue, you would like to make it work. So let's eliminate what I have experience as common problems and see if we can get it too work (understanding that it might not based on Quantum Detailing Physics 101).
Older paints can be weathered and more absorbent then newer paints, so it is possible that you are dealing with some type of contamination that is either on the surface or slightly into the surface that needs to be removed.
Wash the panel thoroughly and use a heavy alkaline soap to really clean it. You can use a strong dilution of Meguiar's APC or a lighter dilution of Meguiar's Super Degreaser. I have one extremely regarded detailer friend who uses Spray 9 degreaser straight. Rinse the residue off. Keep in mind that I am not recommending you do this on a brand new Aston Martin, but rather in context of this panel which is a junker.
If the weathered paint has allowed products to absorb slightly then you are going to have to remove the affected thickness of the paint (perhaps by using an alternative polish that and a cutting pad for a pass or two).
Keep in mind that highly weather paint tends (in my experience) to be far softer then healthy and undamaged paint, so even if you are not getting a chemical reaction, the weathered paint itself can be a cause of the problem.
A polish is really just abrasives in a carrier/lubricant. Obviously far more complicated. Think of this like muddy water in a bucket. As the surface is polished, paint is being removed (and if it is weather it could be removed quickly). If the weathered layer of paint itself is being removed and is gummy it is like pouring more dirt into the muddy water. Add enough dirt and the muddy water becomes almost dry.
M105 can be finicky on weathered paints, and I believe this is because of how quickly the abrasives remove the damaged paint, which clogs up the process.
In most cases it is better to switch to a wetter, more forgiving polish that can better handle the loads of abraded paint with less performance loss. M205 would be a great polish for this as it is not very finicky and is very durable. Meguiar's old M83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish is another one that springs to mind for being able to clean off weathered paint.
You may find that one or two passes over the paint with a different polish will clean the paint enough to allow M105 to work better (if you still need additional polishing power).
To use M105 here is how I would do it. Prime the wool pad with just product. Work M105 around the wool fibers with your hands and kind of scrunch it together like you are putting gel in your hair. Let the product sit on the pad for several minutes then attach to your rotary.
Run the buffer at low speed and use a towel to scrub against the spinning surface and remove any excessive product.
Draw a very small bead of product on the paint, about 3 inch line. Begin polishing at 1000-1200 rpm. Don't use excessive pressure but rather enough to compress the wool. Keep your speed at 1000-1200 and work back and forth evenly (not fast, not slow, just smoothly).
When the product begins dry out or gum up, lightly mist the surface with 1/2 squirt of water and continue polishing. You should get more cut (and hopefully shed some of the weathered abraded paint). Work smoothly until the water starts to dry the remove residue completely with a towel.
I think you will find that this will allow you too get very good correction with M105 and really clean the paint. If you have to make a second pass over the area I would repeat using the same process.
Again it might be ideal to use a different polish, but with a little tweaking with this technique might overcome some of the possible causes of the reaction you are getting and leave a very nice finish in the process.
I would also strongly disagree with the statement that this is a common problem with M105 as people who I constantly talk to that have experience using M105 frequently find it to be about on par with other polishes in terms of having wierd reactions. It is the power of internet-perception, where ten people have an issue and start ten different threads, then post in each others threads about having the same issue while 1000s of people are out using it and getting great results.
M105 can act funny on some paints, and on some paints it will not work but it isn't common, at least not with the experienced people that I speak with.
I'm going to agree with Tim and Chris on this one. While there are some causes of product gumming that additional pressure could possibly fix, in your case this might be a bad suggestion. It takes time, skill, and experience to really learn the way a rotary reacts and to learn to control it like an extension of your arm.
As Mr. Stoops said, there are certain and conditions that don't work with certain polishes. This is not a knock on the polish, but rather a factor of the infinite amount of variables you as you polish in a dynamic environment. What type of paint was it? How old is it? How much has the paint weathered or how healthy is the paint? What products have been used to maintain it through out its life? Have chemicals leached into the paint? The list goes on an on, each injecting another variable into the equation, with out even considering the person doing the polishing, his technique and experience, the type of machine, the speed of the machine, the pad being used, the environmental conditions, and the type of polish.... Quantum Detailing Physics 101.
So M105 isn't working on this paint, and if I read the thread continue, you would like to make it work. So let's eliminate what I have experience as common problems and see if we can get it too work (understanding that it might not based on Quantum Detailing Physics 101).
Older paints can be weathered and more absorbent then newer paints, so it is possible that you are dealing with some type of contamination that is either on the surface or slightly into the surface that needs to be removed.
Wash the panel thoroughly and use a heavy alkaline soap to really clean it. You can use a strong dilution of Meguiar's APC or a lighter dilution of Meguiar's Super Degreaser. I have one extremely regarded detailer friend who uses Spray 9 degreaser straight. Rinse the residue off. Keep in mind that I am not recommending you do this on a brand new Aston Martin, but rather in context of this panel which is a junker.
If the weathered paint has allowed products to absorb slightly then you are going to have to remove the affected thickness of the paint (perhaps by using an alternative polish that and a cutting pad for a pass or two).
Keep in mind that highly weather paint tends (in my experience) to be far softer then healthy and undamaged paint, so even if you are not getting a chemical reaction, the weathered paint itself can be a cause of the problem.
A polish is really just abrasives in a carrier/lubricant. Obviously far more complicated. Think of this like muddy water in a bucket. As the surface is polished, paint is being removed (and if it is weather it could be removed quickly). If the weathered layer of paint itself is being removed and is gummy it is like pouring more dirt into the muddy water. Add enough dirt and the muddy water becomes almost dry.
M105 can be finicky on weathered paints, and I believe this is because of how quickly the abrasives remove the damaged paint, which clogs up the process.
In most cases it is better to switch to a wetter, more forgiving polish that can better handle the loads of abraded paint with less performance loss. M205 would be a great polish for this as it is not very finicky and is very durable. Meguiar's old M83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish is another one that springs to mind for being able to clean off weathered paint.
You may find that one or two passes over the paint with a different polish will clean the paint enough to allow M105 to work better (if you still need additional polishing power).
To use M105 here is how I would do it. Prime the wool pad with just product. Work M105 around the wool fibers with your hands and kind of scrunch it together like you are putting gel in your hair. Let the product sit on the pad for several minutes then attach to your rotary.
Run the buffer at low speed and use a towel to scrub against the spinning surface and remove any excessive product.
Draw a very small bead of product on the paint, about 3 inch line. Begin polishing at 1000-1200 rpm. Don't use excessive pressure but rather enough to compress the wool. Keep your speed at 1000-1200 and work back and forth evenly (not fast, not slow, just smoothly).
When the product begins dry out or gum up, lightly mist the surface with 1/2 squirt of water and continue polishing. You should get more cut (and hopefully shed some of the weathered abraded paint). Work smoothly until the water starts to dry the remove residue completely with a towel.
I think you will find that this will allow you too get very good correction with M105 and really clean the paint. If you have to make a second pass over the area I would repeat using the same process.
Again it might be ideal to use a different polish, but with a little tweaking with this technique might overcome some of the possible causes of the reaction you are getting and leave a very nice finish in the process.
I would also strongly disagree with the statement that this is a common problem with M105 as people who I constantly talk to that have experience using M105 frequently find it to be about on par with other polishes in terms of having wierd reactions. It is the power of internet-perception, where ten people have an issue and start ten different threads, then post in each others threads about having the same issue while 1000s of people are out using it and getting great results.
M105 can act funny on some paints, and on some paints it will not work but it isn't common, at least not with the experienced people that I speak with.
I sprayed some Amazing Roll Off onto it and cleaned all the mildew off with that before I clayed it and began any rotary polishing.
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