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**Murr1525** · Oct 19, 2009, 05:43 PM

Re: Please Help

Dont see why only the third coat would shine, but I'm not an expert.

You didnt buy a matte clear did you?

**73corvette** · Oct 19, 2009, 07:39 PM

Re: Please Help

Originally posted by Murr1525 View Post

Dont see why only the third coat would shine, but I'm not an expert.

You didnt buy a matte clear did you?

Murr,
Thanks for the reply, well I was told you put on 3 lite coats and then the third coat would give it the gloss,I done some painting but never did any clear coating. that was back in the 60's and it was in Pittsburgh where I was born and raised. actually south of there in a town called Carnegie. Boy those were the days. No its not a matte, but I am using a rattle can, Dupli-Color.
hey. I just got done redoing one part, I wet sanded it with 1000 and resprayed it with 3 coats and this time the last coat is glossy,but it has some fish eyes in it. Maybe I just didn't put it on wet enough. Now to see if I can get rest of it to look the same. Should I use the M105 on it to fonish it or would that be to heavy for the clear coat.
Well back to work
Thanks again for the reply,
BTW, where abouts in the Burgh do you live, Man every buddy here hates me cause I'm the biggest Steeler fan in San Diego.
Thanks again

Rich

**Murr1525** · Oct 19, 2009, 09:24 PM

Re: Please Help

I am in Baldwin...

Removing sanding marks by hand might be tough, but you can try if you like.

#105 would be the strongest, though Ultimate Compound is designed for hand use. Some people seem to do better by hand with one or the other...

Try o get the highest grit and quality of paper you can, so you have the least problems to deal with. And you will certainly want a decent layer of clear coat to be sanding on.

**73corvette** · Oct 20, 2009, 12:38 AM

Re: Please Help

Originally posted by Murr1525 View Post

I am in Baldwin...

Removing sanding marks by hand might be tough, but you can try if you like.

#105 would be the strongest, though Ultimate Compound is designed for hand use. Some people seem to do better by hand with one or the other...

Try o get the highest grit and quality of paper you can, so you have the least problems to deal with. And you will certainly want a decent layer of clear coat to be sanding on.

Murr,
well I got to try it now, I ordered it sat and it should be here tomorrow. Boy that stuff is really expensive.I'll see how it works out and of it don't I'll make a detailer I know a good deal if he wants it. The highest grit I could find anywhere was 2000 and I got plenty of that

Yea, I know where Baldwin is not far from where I grew up. Is it very cold there yet? I haven't been snow for ages, long as I can see on the hills 30/40 miles away that's close enough for me.

Regards
Rich

**Murr1525** · Oct 20, 2009, 03:09 PM

Re: Please Help

Yeah, it's been cold.

Warming back up a bit though.

**JimboB5** · Oct 20, 2009, 03:57 PM

Re: Please Help

Hey, corvette; I've used Duplicolor lots of times; the fish-eyes are from the surface having something on it - fingers, etc... anything that wasn't cleaned off prior to the paint being layed down. You can use Prepsol or even alcohol prior to last coat... I always clean after wet-sanding to be sure there is no grease, etc of any kind. 2000 grit should be ok... but may not be enough to get the 'eyes out. Keep us posted on the final polish with the 105. Though you might want to think about the UC since you might be able to get the sanding marks out with something not as strong. At any rate, if you have to redo, sand with 2000, clean well with above cleaner and spray mist coats, then the wet one. let us know how it goes.

**Michael Stoops** · Oct 20, 2009, 04:03 PM

Re: Please Help

A rattle can will generally not give you the level of gloss from a clear that pro equipment will, but that doesn't mean you have to live with what comes out of the can. Since you've painted before you're probably also used to some wet sanding and rotary buffing - is that a fair assumption? If so, you should be able to go lightly with some 2000 or 2500 grit wet sanding and then rotary buff with M105 to really bring up the shine. Even in a pro environment it's pretty standard to buff out a clear coat rather than simply spray and walk away.

**the_invisible** · Oct 20, 2009, 04:08 PM

Re: Please Help

A rattle can spray paint often give inconsistent result. The temperature and the cleanliness of the nozzle affect the spray pattern of the paint. Most of the time the problem associated with rattle can paint is orange peel.

**73corvette** · Oct 20, 2009, 07:49 PM

Re: Please Help

Originally posted by the_invisible View Post

A rattle can spray paint often give inconsistent result. The temperature and the cleanliness of the nozzle affect the spray pattern of the paint. Most of the time the problem associated with rattle can paint is orange peel.

Invisible,
Yea, I'm aware of the problems with rattle cans, so I went out and go me a spray gun and it quit working when just had one fender done it wouldn't spray any clear,just air, nothing I could do to get it working so i had to revert back to the rattle cans, but you know what, I can't see any orange peel in it yet.maybe in the morning I'll see,keeping my fingers crossed.

Thanks for the reply
Rich

**73corvette** · Oct 20, 2009, 08:19 PM

Re: Please Help

Originally posted by JimboB5 View Post

Hey, corvette; I've used Duplicolor lots of times; the fish-eyes are from the surface having something on it - fingers, etc... anything that wasn't cleaned off prior to the paint being layed down. You can use Prepsol or even alcohol prior to last coat... I always clean after wet-sanding to be sure there is no grease, etc of any kind. 2000 grit should be ok... but may not be enough to get the 'eyes out. Keep us posted on the final polish with the 105. Though you might want to think about the UC since you might be able to get the sanding marks out with something not as strong. At any rate, if you have to redo, sand with 2000, clean well with above cleaner and spray mist coats, then the wet one. let us know how it goes.

Jimbo,
Maybe I'm just lucky or maybe because I use a tack cloth prior to spraying but I don't see any fish eyes in it,but we'll see once it's outside. I'm not familiar with UC is that less harsh compound then 105? Is it a Megiuars product? Well,It's done now and looks pretty darn good I must say.
Hey, this is the redo I'm doing or I should say just done, hope there's not going to be another one, lol

Thanks for the reply and info, I appreciate all the help I've got here.
You guys are GREAT

Rich
P.S.I put 2 wet coats on and my put 2 more on tomorrow will let you guys know how it turns out when I get it out side in the sun.

**73corvette** · Oct 20, 2009, 08:56 PM

Re: Please Help

Originally posted by Michael Stoops View Post

A rattle can will generally not give you the level of gloss from a clear that pro equipment will, but that doesn't mean you have to live with what comes out of the can. Since you've painted before you're probably also used to some wet sanding and rotary buffing - is that a fair assumption? If so, you should be able to go lightly with some 2000 or 2500 grit wet sanding and then rotary buff with M105 to really bring up the shine. Even in a pro environment it's pretty standard to buff out a clear coat rather than simply spray and walk away.

Michael,
Small world, I used to live in Trabuco Canyon, my son lives in Mission Viejo, so I still get up that way pretty often.
Holy cow, I painted when gas was 19cents a gal., so now you know I'm older than dirt, I never used rotary buffer before, probably cause they didn't have electricity back then.lol

One of the other guys mentioned UC instead of 105, don't know what it is just saw the 105 on the web site and then heard all you guys talking about it but when i went to buy it I had to sell my grave site to pay for it. I think that's what made the market go up 200 points the other day. Mean no offense to a M employee.
Do you really think it's what I should use, I was going to have a detailer guy I know come over and make it shine great,I hope.

God I hate to take sand paper to a nice shiney surface, I was just hoping it would shine great just with him performing his miracles.
Well. IT'S ALMOST my bed time so I guess I cut the gab and sit and relax a while.
Thanks for your input, I do appreciate it. You have a bunch of great guys here with loads of knowledge.
Rich

.

**seth1066** · Oct 20, 2009, 09:12 PM

Re: Please Help

That last clear coat has to go on wet to end up looking wet. It's a pia with the cans trying to get it on wet without any runs.

I've had great results for small areas using the paint from expresspaint.com. They never match perfectly, but get close. It's urethane based and a one way process; on a respray you can't get any of the color coat on the previously applied & cured clear coat, but it works great the other way around.

I've been told, so don't quote me, that you can't use laquer/enamel spray equipment with the new (1988 & up?) low voc paint systems.

**JimboB5** · Oct 21, 2009, 02:53 AM

Re: Please Help

Good to hear. UC - Ultimate Compound, as I understand it is good for hand use and less aggressive. Anyway, all done and looks good is all that matters... always nice to get it done and to DIY : )

**73corvette** · Oct 21, 2009, 06:34 AM

Re: Please Help

Originally posted by JimboB5 View Post

Good to hear. UC - Ultimate Compound, as I understand it is good for hand use and less aggressive. Anyway, all done and looks good is all that matters... always nice to get it done and to DIY : )

Jimbo,
Well just about, but I'm not satisfied yet. think I might put like 2 more coats of clear on it so the detailer has something to really work with. I not sure but that's my thinkin right now.
Have a great day
Rich
when finished it will be my avatar

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