Help with product selection critique (40 year old paint).

[sbjmg]

Ok I recently purchased an 1970 LT-1 with original paint. It seems pretty nice but it definitely needs some attention as it has been in a barn for some time.

Go here for pictures, as I am at work and can not post pictures properly (web sense). http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1571393499-post37.html

I was thinking of trying this routine myself (all by hand).

Step 1: Wash with Dawn.
Step 2: Clay the car with Meguiar's G1016 Smooth Surface Clay Kit
Step 3: Wash with Dawn
Step 4: Polish the car with Meguiar's G17216 Ultimate Compound
Step 5: Wax the car with Meguiar's NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0

Now the car's value is in the fact it has Survivor potential, I do not want to screw up the paint as it is original (along with the leather, and carpets).

What applicators should I use to apply the polish and wax, how about to take it off? Can I just use microfiber towels I bought from Wal-Mart?

Thanks

[Murr1525]

Re: Help with product selection critique (40 year old paint).

1. Wash - Dawn should not be needed unless there are real problems. I would wash properly with Gold Class first. See link below.

2. Clay - OK, get an extra QD bottle as well. And clay the glass. Usually no need to wash after.

3. Clean - I would not jump to UC right away. Doing a test spot with SwirlX first would be best, then using UC if needed. And of course UC may need followed up with SwirlX.

4. Polish - Being older paint, a coat of a pure polish like the Deep Crystal Polish would be a good idea.

5. Wax - Nxt is good, remember 2 thin coats.

Meguiars also makes good leather products and products for the vinyl, etc. And glass, wheels, tires....

As far as applicators, the smooth yellow round foam applicatos are best to start with. And then using a good quality microfiber towel to remove. Meguiars makes Supreme Shine Towels for removing products, and Water Magnets for drying.

I havent used the Walmart towels, so not sure of their quality. But I have a good guess that they are a step below the Meguiars ones, if you care....

[Murr1525]

Re: Help with product selection critique (40 year old paint).

Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle
Step 1 Wash
Step 2 Clean
Step 3 Polish
Step 4 Protect
Step 5 Maintain

Lessons from White Paint

Suggested Products for Taking Care of a New Car

How to Wash Your Car Show Car Style

What it Means to Remove a Scratch

How To Remove Swirls By Hand

How To Remove a Bird Dropping Etching by Hand using M105 Ultra Cut Compound

How to correctly apply ScratchX to remove swirls and scratches

1986 Ford Bronco II - Extreme Makeover

[BarryK]

Re: Help with product selection critique (40 year old paint).

'70 LT-1 is a sweet ride! congrats.
I have a '65 coupe but would love to add a chrome bumper shark to my garage at some point.

May I suggest the following:

1. a good wash with a high quality car wash shampoo rather than the dawn. (the claying and comound will remove any existing wax anyway)
2. clay
3. not needed - rewash after claying is an unneeded step
4. At this point carefully inspect the car and THAN evaluate what level of correction is needed. Ultimate Compound may be perfect for what's needed or it may be too aggressive or not aggressive enough but based on the general guidelines of using the least aggressive method possible to get the job done don't automatically assume you will need UC. SwirlX or ScratchX might be all you need OR you may even need to go all the way up to M105, you just don't know yet.
5. NXT 2.0 is an excellent LSP. I use M21 (pro line version of NXT) and than top it with #21 carnuba on my '65 and I love the result

If your car is a true survivor than it's a special car and care must be given to it in all areas. Careful and proper methods should allow you to bring life back to the paint if it's not too far gone.

Keep in mid that the paint, if it's really the original is a single stage lacquer. You can be amazed how that can be brought back to life sometimes although don't be surprised to find a lot of cracking and spiderwebbing in it.

For the polish or compound first determine WHAT product you will need after the wash and claying and that will determine what type of applicator but your best bet to bring that original paint back to life is to use a Dual Action buffer such as the Porter Cable 7424XP or the Flex 3401. A buffer will be more effective than attempting to do major paint corrections by hand.

My recommendation would be to wash the car well and clay it than take a lot of photos of the paint and post them up here so we can see what you have to work with and we can make a better recommendation on your next steps

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Help with product selection critique (40 year old paint).

If it's got original paint odds are it's single stage, and single stage paint loves M80 Speed Glaze. M80 works great by hand too and is pretty mild but still highly effective. Plus the polishing oils will do wonders for bringing up the gloss level and really nourishing that paint. On single stage paint, M80/M83 are tough to beat.

[sbjmg]

Re: Help with product selection critique (40 year old paint).

OK, thanks for all the replies and suggestions.

First off I do not have any power tools nor do I trust my self with them. Which is why I would like to do all this by hand. If I can not do a satisfactory job then later on when I get some money saved up I can have it done professionally.

I would like to try and see what I can do by hand while doing as little damage as possible.

I guess the steps are pretty clear.

Wash
Clay
Clean/Polish
Wax

Now I just need to pick the products.

Wash I figured I would go with dawn, for two reasons, I already have it and I heard it does a good job of prepping the car. If this is not a good idea please let me know.

Clay Meguiar's G1016 Smooth Surface Clay Kit

Clean/Polish I would prefer not to do both (to save time and money) or purchase too many products, so I would like to do one or the other.
Possible Products:
M80 Speed Glaze
M09 Swirl Remover
M02 Mirror Glaza Fine - Cut Cleaner
M82 Swirl Free Polish
SwirlX
Ultimate Compound
ScratchX
Deep Crystal Cleaner
Deep Crystal Polish

Wax/Sealer The car will rarely be driven and will all most always be garaged with a cover on (in San Diego).
Possible Products:
NXT 2.0
M06 Cleaner Wax
M07 Mirror Glaze


I hope you guys can pick between the options I have above as these are the options that are easily picked up by me and in my price range. I can get all these products from the same store and get a great price.

Sorry for the long post, I really appreciate everyone's time.

Thanks again. I will post many pictures before and after.

[Murr1525]

Re: Help with product selection critique (40 year old paint).

Wash No Dawn without very good reasons. Be sure to watch the link provided on car washing.

Clay

Clean/Polish If you are trying to do as little as possible, that kind of makes it tough. Certainly dont want to jump straight to UC without doing a test spot, and SwirLX will be something you want in the future I think. As mentioned, the paint on the car probably needs some polishing oils, and #80 is a good cleaner/polish with lots of oils. I am just not sure #80 by hand will help with the minor defects as much. Thats kind of why I chose to go with SwirlX (which has some polishing oils), and then a pure polish (which has lots of polishing oils).

Frankly, you may find you just want to give the car a good mild detail for now, (SwirlX or #80)possibly a pure polish, and then do a more involved detail, defect removal if posisble, etc in the future.

But esp if you are worried about preseving the paint, you really dont want to skimp on a mild cleaning and getting polishing oils into the paint.

Wax Nxt 2.0 is pretty top of the line, esp when starting out.

Just to note, #7 is a pure polish like Deep Crystal Polish or #81, and has no protective properties.

As a rough list, I would want:
Gold Class Soap
Smooth Surface Clay kit + extra Quick Detailer bottle
Nxt 2.0
And then just decide between #80, or SwirlX + pure polish for the mild cleaning/polishing at the moment.

And glass cleaner, mild wheel cleaner, leateh care, interior products, etc as mentioned above.

[J. A. Michaels]

Re: Help with product selection critique (40 year old paint).

I would definitely skip the dawn. Get yourself a good quality car wash. Like Gold Class.
Clay including glass.
#80
wax.

[sbjmg]

Re: Help with product selection critique (40 year old paint).

OK one last question. Someone on the corvetteforums stated to be carefull with claying an old lacquer car. He didnt elaborate. Are clay bars safe on lacquer cars, are they safe on 40 year old paint?

Pending an answer on the above questions.

I will be going with.

Wash - With Gold Class or equivalent.
Clay - Meguiars Clay Kit
Clean/Polish - M80
Wax - NXT

Thanks guys, I will make sure to post pictures.

Sorry one more question, my friend has a cheap orbital buffer (you know the ones that are $10-25) should I use it or am I better off doing it by hand.

Thanks again.

[james0509]

Re: Help with product selection critique (40 year old paint).

OK one last question. Someone on the corvetteforums stated to be carefull with claying an old lacquer car. He didnt elaborate. Are clay bars safe on lacquer cars, are they safe on 40 year old paint?

Pending an answer on the above questions.

I will be going with.

Wash - With Gold Class or equivalent.
Clay - Meguiars Clay Kit
Clean/Polish - M80
Wax - NXT

Thanks guys, I will make sure to post pictures.

Sorry one more question, my friend has a cheap orbital buffer (you know the ones that are $10-25) should I use it or am I better off doing it by hand.

Thanks again.

Not sure about the clay on your paint. ( even though mother's clay bar kit states it is safe on all paint finishes and clear coats , it's better to have the pro's chime in on this one )

Regarding your friend's cheap orbital buffer, I would not use it. Either do it by hand or get a decent DA buffer (or rotary if you are experienced with them). The cheap orbital buffer might help you with applying wax faster, but I wouldn't count on it to fix defects in the paint.

[the_invisible]

Re: Help with product selection critique (40 year old paint).

Shyneman123 is an encyclopedia on paint that are ALMOST as old as some of us

I am SURE he will reply once he wakes up and logs on tomorrow.

[Murr1525]

Re: Help with product selection critique (40 year old paint).

OK one last question. Someone on the corvetteforums stated to be carefull with claying an old lacquer car. He didnt elaborate. Are clay bars safe on lacquer cars, are they safe on 40 year old paint?

Pending an answer on the above questions.

I will be going with.

Wash - With Gold Class or equivalent.
Clay - Meguiars Clay Kit
Clean/Polish - M80
Wax - NXT

Thanks guys, I will make sure to post pictures.

Sorry one more question, my friend has a cheap orbital buffer (you know the ones that are $10-25) should I use it or am I better off doing it by hand.

Thanks again.

There are different types of clay, some more agressive than others.

The clay in the smooth surface clay kit is very mild, and you can use plenty of lubricant (Quick Detailer) with it. Obviously you dont want to grind it into the paint, just wipe back and forth gently over the lubrication. And if the paint has any bubbles, or chips, you will want to be carefull or just avoid those edges, same as with any product.

A very strong clay, like the Professional Line Agressive Clay, can leave marring and and swirls on paint.

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Help with product selection critique (40 year old paint).

OK one last question. Someone on the corvetteforums stated to be carefull with claying an old lacquer car. He didnt elaborate. Are clay bars safe on lacquer cars, are they safe on 40 year old paint?

Yes, it's perfectly safe. When used properly, with a generous amount of quick detail spray lubricant, the clay doesn't actually interact with the paint. We've clayed original paint that was this old and older without issue.

Pending an answer on the above questions.

I will be going with.

Wash - With Gold Class or equivalent.
Clay - Meguiars Clay Kit
Clean/Polish - M80
Wax - NXT

Thanks guys, I will make sure to post pictures.

Sounds like a very good plan of attack....... and we do expect to see some pictures, just so you know.

Sorry one more question, my friend has a cheap orbital buffer (you know the ones that are $10-25) should I use it or am I better off doing it by hand.

Thanks again.

While these machines generally don't have the power to correct defects on clear coat paints (they tend to be much harder than older single stage paint systems) that lack of power does make them very safe. But since you have a single stage paint system it may be pretty soft or "workable" - there's no harm in trying it out, but the bonnets available for use on it may not be the best material choice for achieving the best possible finish. It's certainly worth a test - if it helps you out, great, if not then you've lost nothing.

[Calais]

Re: Help with product selection critique (40 year old paint).

Clay is asbolutely A-OK for your single stage paint. Claying my single stage (30 year old) paint job is one of the best steps I've learned so far, including paint correction!