Help the NOOB!

[xcfw]

Hi y'all! This is my first post on this forum, and after hours of reading and getting jazzed about understanding and applying the techniques discussed here, I've come up with a couple of questions concerning product selection and my own little project.

I have a fairly new 2009 Chevy truck, black metallic in color.
The first problem I have is waxed-in water spots on the hood. My doing early on in ownership and boy do I feel dumb about that. I'm hoping ColorXing will do fine on this one.

My second thing to address is a bigger one. I had to have some body work done. It turned out "ok" overall but if I look at the panel (that was repaired ,painted and whole panel reclear coated) just right, in the right light and only when spotlessly clean, I can see some rotary swirl markings over some parts of the panel(the bed side). The repair and subsequent buffing is less than a month old.

I've read about deswirling by hand and using a DA until I have a headache, and am thinking I'll try to do this by hand as my thinking is that these marks are not that severe, seeing as I have to really search them out, as opposed to being glaring defects(no pun intended)

My question is concerning the difference between ColorX, SwirlX, and ScratchX?? ( other than the first being a wax that needs to dry before removal) Where is the scheme of agressiveness as far as swirl removal do these products fall?? Least to most as I listed them? I seem to have found little feedback or discussion about SwirlX in particullar.

TIA to all that can help this newly reformed, but former car wash sloth!

[Murr1525]

Re: Help the NOOB!

The producs would go:
ColorX - Mild
ScratchX 1.0 - Less Mild
SwirlX - Mild/Medium
ScratchX 2.0 - Medium
Ultimate Compound - Strong

I would be looking at SwirlX and UC for removing defects, then ColorX everything after.

[xcfw]

Re: Help the NOOB!

Thanks! I have a bottle of SwirlX as my first guess product wise.

Is it correct that a foam applicator pad is safest or least likely to cause it own swirls?

If I were to zone in on the areas that I can identify with swirls and do them without doing the whole bedside, will I be likely to tell? ie will the SwirlX'd areas look any different other than being hopefully swirl-free?

[james0509]

Re: Help the NOOB!

Thanks! I have a bottle of SwirlX as my first guess product wise.

Is it correct that a foam applicator pad is safest or least likely to cause it own swirls?

If I were to zone in on the areas that I can identify with swirls and do them without doing the whole bedside, will I be likely to tell? ie will the SwirlX'd areas look any different other than being hopefully swirl-free?

Which method is safer? That completely depends on your skill and knowledge of each method. DA is pretty safe if you're worried about it causing swirls, but getting rid of swirls by hand is excruciating. I tried to remove swirls off of a hood by hand and I did not get good results, only got a sore arm.

Try it yourself because I may have done something wrong,

[Murr1525]

Re: Help the NOOB!

Is it correct that a foam applicator pad is safest or least likely to cause it own swirls?

Yes, the smooth foam applicator, like the Hi-Tec Applicator, would be the best to start with.

If I were to zone in on the areas that I can identify with swirls and do them without doing the whole bedside, will I be likely to tell? ie will the SwirlX'd areas look any different other than being hopefully swirl-free?

Well, of course you will have to see if SwirlX is the product for the job with a test spot/panel. Or it may be UC + SwirlX, at least by hand.

But if you do a good job, and the products work, yeah, it is possible that clean spots will stand out.

[xcfw]

Re: Help the NOOB!

Thanks guys. Lastly, how long should I let this BC/CC repaint "cure" before waxing, presuming I get the swirls out just beforehand. I've heard anywhere from 30 to 90 days. FWIW, I live in a 90*, 90% humidity environment and the trucks in the sun a fair amount- here in the "sunshine state", but I call it the "state of rain" here recently...

[philming]

Re: Help the NOOB!

Hi there. As for what I heard, you should NOT touch a newly painted part of your car right now, but should wait up to 90 days (I heard different stories stating 30, 60 or 90 days) before doing anything to them (that includes polishing, waxing etc) appart from washing.

[xcfw]

Re: Help the NOOB!

Hi there. As for what I heard, you should NOT touch a newly painted part of your car right now, but should wait up to 90 days (I heard different stories stating 30, 60 or 90 days) before doing anything to them (that includes polishing, waxing etc) appart from washing.

That makes sense, but the body shop already did buff the whole repair area within a couple of days of painting, so wouldn't my de-swirling be just more of the same?
I can see not sealing it with wax for a while, the question is how long to wait??
Would it be best to do both the swirlX'ing followed immediately by waxing? Or first work on the swirls and come back 30-90 days later with the wax??
The jury realy seems to be out on the cure time....

[Murr1525]

Re: Help the NOOB!

You should be able to call the shop and ask. I think mine said 60 when I had some work done.

And yes, you will be safe to wash, clay, and clean the paint.

[xcfw]

Re: Help the NOOB!

You should be able to call the shop and ask. I think mine said 60 when I had some work done.

And yes, you will be safe to wash, clay, and clean the paint.

Just to be clear here (sorry)- it should be fine to do all of the deswirling at this juncture, let it cure more, then come back after what ever the shop says time-frame and clay, polish and wax?

[Murr1525]

Re: Help the NOOB!

Yeah.

Rememebr UQD isnt recomended for new paint either.

[xcfw]

Re: Help the NOOB!

Yeah.

Rememebr UQD isnt recomended for new paint either.

Other than Ultimate quick detailer are there any other products to avoid with new paint?? And after how long is not considered "new" anymore?

This was my tentative plan of attack:
1)work on the swirls in the body work area with SwirlX, possibly up to Ultimate compound soon
2)let X # of weeks go by per body shop/painters reccomendation
3) dawn wash whole truck to de-wax everything
4)swirlX or up to UC hoods water spots
5)clay bar rough spots where needed like behind wheels
6)deep crystal polish everything (I've got black metallic paint)
7)NXT 2.0(?)or Gold class wax it all

Any other suggestions???? Am I missing something or going about any of this altogether wrong step wise?? ColorX injected anywhere into this plan?

TIA

[1970judge]

Re: Help the NOOB!

Which pads should you use for UC, swirlX, Scratch X, etc on a G110?

[Murr1525]

Re: Help the NOOB!

For a G110, you would use the polishing pads.

As far as your plan of attack, has the entire car been clayed? If not, dont just do behind the wheels.

Also, no Dawn wash. Just use your regular quality car wash soap.

[xcfw]

Re: Help the NOOB!

I thought clay-ing was to take off surface imperfections that you can feel that haven't washed off?
The reason I said only behind the wheels is that is usually the only place I can feel bumps or "stuff stuck", thus where I've clayed before. Well, there and the hoods leading edge and front bumper ends where bugs die quickly but don't go away easily! Elsewhere it's generally smooth to the touch when clean.
Oh yea, I'll be doing this by hand. At least initially...... Glad I don't have a Suburban

This is helpfull stuff, mur1525. Thanks