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Question about winter "storage"

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  • Question about winter "storage"

    Hi everyone.

    I'm in the process of purchasing a winter "beater" car, at which point my Cobra will be washed, waxed, and covered with a car cover for the winter months. I plan to start it up and drive it regularly, of course (when there's not a foot of snow on the ground), but other than the wash and wax, is there anything else anyone would recommend before throwing the cover over it and hanging the keys up?

    The car is sitting outside, just to clarify.

  • #2
    IT would be a good idea to also clean and dress the tires and any exterior and interior trim. Condition and protect your seats.

    Some people place a moisture absorber in stored vehicles, here's an example,

    http://texastechnologies.com/dri_it.htm

    Mike
    Mike Phillips
    760-515-0444
    showcargarage@gmail.com

    "Find something you like and use it often"

    Comment


    • #3
      Cool! That drier thing is a good idea, especially since my seats have a lot of seude.

      Thanks!

      Comment


      • #4
        Your welcome...

        I'm sure there will be some other suggestions too...

        Mike
        Mike Phillips
        760-515-0444
        showcargarage@gmail.com

        "Find something you like and use it often"

        Comment


        • #5
          when I lived in minnesota, it was common practice for many to put moth balls in there cars to keep mice out of the car, i hate the smell of moth balls "IN" a car so we use to hang them in mesh bags from the undercarriage to keep them away, just a suggestion if mice "might" be a problem
          "at the end of the game, the king and the pawn go in the same box"

          Comment


          • #6
            ~One man’s opinion / observations~

            As you’ll be starting / driving your vehicle everything here won’t apply. But to any of you who plan to ‘store’ their vehicle for the winter this may help:

            Storing your vehicle, ranging from a convertible that's reserved for sunny days to a show car for whatever reason, only requires a few precautions to ensure that it is preserved and will be operational after its in hibernation. All cars hate to sit idle, so don't expect to top off the fluids and drive out of the garage.

            But a little work now can protect a vehicle from rust, animals and other storage-related headaches. To help vehicle owners keep their stored vehicles in good shape, here are a few storage tips.

            Vehicle Storage

            ·Place a 12 Mil plastic sheet under to the vehicle to avoid dampness capillary action and it will also form a moisture barrier
            ·Change the oil and filter.
            ·Replace brake fluid with DOT 3
            ·Do not drain the fuel tank, as an empty tank will cause condensation and it will start to rust! Top off fuel tank, then pour Stabil into the tank and run it for a few minutes (to get it into the fuel lines) If you don't cycle your fuel through the tank every two months, it starts an oxidation process and will turn into varnish over time, this can clog your fuel lines, One ounce protects three gallons of any type of fuel.
            ·Top off coolant with a 50/50 water and corrosion inhibitor and fill all fluids
            ·Spray distributor with WD-40
            ·Protect the paint, give the vehicle a good washing, dry it thoroughly and then apply an oil rich polish.
            ·Clean the interior of the car, apply a generous coating of Leatherique Rejuvinator oil to all leather surfaces, and use a box of DampRid moisture absorbing products, also leave a bar of scented soap under the seats (vermin don't like the smell)
            ·Apply Wurth HHS-2000 clear spray lubricant to seat rails and sunroof guide rails
            ·Apply a conditioner to `rubber' weather stripping (Zymol Seal)
            ·Apply leather conditioner to all leather surfaces.
            ·Close all windows, trunk, and hood, and stuff the exhaust with a cloth to ensure mice do not enter
            ·Close windows but leave a small gap to ensure rubber seals are not completely flattened, same for doors, close to first `click'
            ·Over inflate the tyres (50psi) Do not place car jacks as these will unload the suspension and may do harm. Some vehicles should not be stored with the suspensions unloaded (check with manufacturer)
            ·Store the car in gear; do not apply the emergency brake.
            ·Remove sparkplugs and inject a little oil down into each of the cylinders.
            ·Remove the battery, clean and store separately (the myth about storing a battery on concrete is just that, a myth) coat the terminals with Wurth battery and terminal cleaner, do the same thing with the cable terminals, coat battery hold down bolts with WD40.
            ·Alternatively use a Battery Tender, a fully automatic two-stage lead acid battery charger, lightweight, compact size, trickle charger that assures batteries are maintained after charging. Ideal for all lead-acid, sealed maintenance free and gel cell batteries. After full 14.4 VDC charge is reached, converts to float charger and monitors battery at 13.2 volts. When voltage drops below 12.6 VDC, charger resumes charging back to 14.4 VDC. Two-colour LED indicator, Spark-proof; reverse polarity protected, twelve-foot output cord and quick-connect harness. Comes with a set of quick disconnect clamps and rings
            ·Cover the car with a good quality cotton car cover. If you are storing the vehicle outside use a UV sunshade on the windshield and rear window, plus a car cover.
            ·Store convertibles with the top up. Convertible tops can actually shrink if they are left in the down position, for an extended period of time.
            ·Inspect the vehicle from time to time and check to ensure that the DampRid is still operational


            Encapsulation Storage System:

            A perfect solution for those enthusiasts faced with the dilemma of long-term storage of any car or truck. The unique (and patented) Car Capsule virtually "seals" the vehicle in its own purified environment. A continuous airflow keeps the car dry and prevents corrosion and mildew. It also eliminates that "musty" door that is so common with stored vehicles. The air is filtered, and is circulated by a highly efficient fan that costs just a little over a dollar per month to operate and is warranted for 5 years. Features a laminated fabric base-mat, double polished 8-mil PVC shroud and heavy-duty nylon zipper closure. The material is warranted for two years. It's easy to use, and shows-off your pride and joy while protecting it, available in a variety of sizes from 14' to 20' in length


            ~Hope this helps~

            Knowledge unshared is experience wasted [each one / teach one]
            justadumbarchitect / so I question everything/ JonM
            ~ Providing unbiased advice that Professional and Enthusiast Detailer’s Trust ~ Blog – http://togwt1980.blogspot.com

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            • #7
              The car capsule is the very best method unless you have a heated, sealed, humidity controlled garage.
              An old friend of mine lives in Carmel Highlands and has a 1959 Ferrari 250. He suffered thousands of dollars in rodent damage in just a few weeks one winter. The little pests destroyed the interior, ruined the seats, and chewed up the wiring. The only thing that would have stopped them is one of those inflated car bags.

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