Working it in/Massage into paint - What does this actually mean?

[Nagaz]

Hi all,

First I want to say thanks for all the assistance so far, but yet again I have discovered something that does not quite make sense to me

I have read so many different threads that I think I will have information over load before I actually get all my products (and car)...

Many threads have mentioned that you must work in a product (DCPC, ColorX, Cleaner Wax, etc).. I understand that with a wax, you use a medium pressure, overlap and let haze before you wipe it off, but what is meant by 'working it in'??? Does this mean that i use my DA till i can no longer see any residue or until it is almost dry?

Any advice is greatly appreciated....

Also, hijacking my own thread here, can someone clarify/confirm the following for me?
Am i correct in assuming the following?
- Waxing: Wax the entire car, wit till it hazes then buff with MF from starting point
- Paint Cleaner: Apply to a single area, work in (re above) and then buff immediately
- Cleaner Wax (eg ColorX): Apply like a 'normal' wax, let haze and then buff off

Thanks again!!!!

Nagaz

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Working it in/Massage into paint - What does this actually mean?

"Working in" can mean a few different things, depending on the product being used.

• Paint Cleaners - these products are designed to remove below surface defects such as fine swirls, light scratches, etching from bird droppings, etc and would include products like ScratchX 2.0, SwirlX, Ultimate Compound, M09, M80, etc. The removal of these defects is only accomplished by removing a micro fine layer of clear coat in order to level the surface down to the bottom of the scratch/swirl/etch/etc. That can only happen through an abrasive action and you need some energy behind the process, hence the concept of "working in" the paint cleaner or "working it against the surface". These products should be wiped off before they dry - nothing is gained by letting them dry, and they can become difficult to remove if they do dry. Whether working by hand, D/A or rotary, you want to work these products against the paint until only a very thin, but still wet, film is present. Never work in until dry.
• Pure Polishes - these products are designed to do nothing more than add gloss and beauty to the paint and as such the application process is much more gentle than for paint cleaners. If you could look at the paint surface on a microscopic level you'd see that it is far from truly flat and smooth, and you want to work these products in so that you force it into the tiny pores and crevices of the paint. Again, you would apply these products and remove before they dry. Generally you don't work these as long as you do a paint cleaner, so they tend to stay a bit thicker and heavier on the paint when you go to remove them. Keep in mind that "thicker and heavier" is a relative term here!
• Waxes and Sealants - these products provide a sacrificial barrier and protect the high gloss finish you achieved via the paint cleaning and polishing steps. You want to work these in so as to obtain complete, uniform coverage over the paint surface and allow them to dry fully before removal.

Also, hijacking my own thread here, can someone clarify/confirm the following for me?
Am i correct in assuming the following?
- Waxing: Wax the entire car, wit till it hazes then buff with MF from starting point
- Paint Cleaner: Apply to a single area, work in (re above) and then buff immediately
- Cleaner Wax (eg ColorX): Apply like a 'normal' wax, let haze and then buff off

You've got the waxing and paint cleaner bits right, but a cleaner wax should be applied more vigorously than a pure wax because you need the friction and energy during application to take advantage of the cleaning ability of these products. Keep in mind that a cleaner wax is just that, a cleaner and wax in one product. Ultimately, however, you do still want to leave a thin layer behind and let it dry fully before removal, just as with any other wax.

[Nagaz]

Re: Working it in/Massage into paint - What does this actually mean?

Hi Michael,

Thanks for the info...

With the paint cleaners (DCPC or ColorX) should I work panel by panel or do the entire car and then buff off from starting point as is suggested with a wax?

Thanks again..

[Murr1525]

Re: Working it in/Massage into paint - What does this actually mean?

DCPC is a cleaner.

ColorX is a cleaner/wax.

So the DCPC you would do a panel then remove (though I have never had a problem letting it dry).

The ColorX you would apply to the entire car then remove.

Here is a video of really working in a product by hand to remove defects.

How to correctly apply ScratchX to remove swirls and scratches

[Nagaz]

Re: Working it in/Massage into paint - What does this actually mean?

Thanks Murr,

Does the same apply to a polish (eg DC2) as it does with DCPC??
Also, am I correct in assuming that DC2 can be applied by a DA?

So many questions keep coming up...

Thanks again!

[Michael Stoops]

Re: Working it in/Massage into paint - What does this actually mean?

No matter if you're working by hand, orbital, D/A or rotary, when working with anything that is not a wax (paint cleaners, cleaner/polishes or pure polishes) you want to restrict your work area to roughly 2' x 2' at the most, and wipe the product off before it dries.

When working with an all in one product (D151, M66, ColorX) or a cleaner wax (M06, A12) you would still work that small area but now you can let the product dry as you move on to subsequent sections of the vehicle. Once the whole vehicle has been gone over you can start wiping off the dried product.

When working with a non-cleaning wax (M26, NXT, Gold Class, M21) you can expand the work area as you apply the wax, but still make sure you go over every square inch of surface area a couple of times just to make sure you're getting uniform coverage. Cover all painted surfaces of the vehicle and let dry completely before removal.

[Murr1525]

Re: Working it in/Massage into paint - What does this actually mean?

Does the same apply to a polish (eg DC2) as it does with DCPC??

As far as working it in, no. It just needs wiped on gently and removed.

Also, am I correct in assuming that DC2 can be applied by a DA?

Yes it can, though not sure how much effort it really saves.