newbie product questions

[rdblan2]

Evening folks. Looking for a little advice here. I've done a lot of reading and note taking over the last month or so and have a few questions before I pull the trigger on yet another order from ADS. I think I may have read to much and confused myself.

I have the G110 on order and it should arrive this week. I have a 2008 F150 SuperCrew that has some light swirls I'm hoping to correct. Truck was in the show room when I bought it and I imagine the lot flunkie that kept coming by and "polishing" it with a dry rag to remove dust is the culprit. The thoughts of chasing a foam applicator by hand all over my truck makes me tremble. I'm betting my arms would fall of before I'm done. Hence, the order for the G110.

Questions as follows, advice appreciated:

1. Should I order the 7" softbuff 2.0 pads or the 6.5" pads? I think I read that I lose a little cut with the 7" pads if I don't get the newer backing plate. Is that correct? Any other reason? Are the new 7" 2.0 pads a large improvement?

2. I have some Scratch X 2.0 that I've used by hand on a few spots that were worse than the others with excellent results. I now refer to it as "Meguiar's Awesome in a tube elixir". Can't say enough about this. Does exactly what it should and I love it. If using with the DA, apply with yellow polishing pad? Same for Swirl X ?

3. 105/205/swirl x / scratch x 2.0? Looking at the order of aggressiveness Mike Phillips posted, and knowing I need to start with the least aggressive product first, I must say I'm a bit confused. Say I start with swirl x, then move up to scratch x (I already have both products) and get my desired results, do I gain anything by using 105/205 in place of the swirl X / Scratch X 2.0? If it's better, I can order some. Reading the following paragraph from the "order of aggressiveness" makes me think I should stick with Swirl x / Scratch X 2.0: Is this a good assumption?

NOTE: M205 is specifically formulated and intended to be used with a rotary buffer on fresh paint after the initial cut is made using M105 Ultra Cut Compound. When M105 is used correctly, they may only be some fine swirls left in the paint and this is what M205 is designed to remove. This is our new M105/M205 Tag Team primarily targeted at body shops where technicians are sanding and buffing fresh paint. Of course we know the detailing industry as well as the enthusiast segment of the car hobby will also use these products so we just want to set the record straight as to what these two products are intended to do and who they are primarily target towards.

4. I apply wax (NXT 2.0) by hand (megs foam applicator). I've been removing with a cheap $15 wal mart "buffer". Certainly makes things faster. If I remove with my new DA, can I cover a polishing or finishing pad with one of the "ultimate microfiber DA bonnets" and remove that way?
5. I've generally used the following procedure:
a: wash with gold class wash.
b: Dry w/ microfiber
c: Clay
D: Polish with deep crystal polish by hand (should I use a different product with the DA or is this ok? If so, do I apply with finishing pad?).
I'd normally apply NXT 2.0 now and call it done, but since I'm going to try some swirl removal:
e: swirl x w/ DA or scratch x 2.0 as appropriate before polish.
f: polish now step D.
g: NXT 2.0.
Thanks for taking the time to help folks, I really appreciate it. I hate to ask all these questions, but the more I read, the more confused I get!

[J. A. Michaels]

Re: newbie product questions

1.I like the 2.0 foam pads.Being washable is a big plus. I would order the new backing plate. But I am anal anyways. I always like having a back up on hand.

2.Yes.

3. I like all your choices. I have used both combo's. It as always depends on the vehicle. ( in my house our Jeep is a breeze. Get a random scratch or swirl, I have taken it out with scratch-x 2.0 and on other occasions I grabbed the 205 and it worked. Now by comparison our Altima Needs the big guns. 105 on the majority of the scratches and swirls did the trick.)


4. I always apply my lsp with the G110 and a 9207 finishing pad. To remove the lsp, I usethe 7207 cutting pad with a microfiber bonnet.

( The bonnets are reversible. I usually use 2 bonnets minimum per vehicle. 1 for each half. Then when you are a 1/2 way done, flip to the other side of the bonnet. Then for the remaining half of the vehicle use the 2nd bonnet and flip sides when you are halfway done.

5. Your steps seem in order.

Good luck.

[akimel]

Re: newbie product questions

Questions as follows, advice appreciated:

1. Should I order the 7" softbuff 2.0 pads or the 6.5" pads? I think I read that I lose a little cut with the 7" pads if I don't get the newer backing plate. Is that correct? Any other reason? Are the new 7" 2.0 pads a large improvement?

Go with the 7.0 pads, as they are washable. I doubt you will see much of a cutting difference between the 6.5 and 7.0.

2. I have some Scratch X 2.0 that I've used by hand on a few spots that were worse than the others with excellent results. I now refer to it as "Meguiar's Awesome in a tube elixir". Can't say enough about this. Does exactly what it should and I love it. If using with the DA, apply with yellow polishing pad? Same for Swirl X ?

Yes, first apply with the yellow polishing pad.

3. 105/205/swirl x / scratch x 2.0? Looking at the order of aggressiveness Mike Phillips posted, and knowing I need to start with the least aggressive product first, I must say I'm a bit confused. Say I start with swirl x, then move up to scratch x (I already have both products) and get my desired results, do I gain anything by using 105/205 in place of the swirl X / Scratch X 2.0? If it's better, I can order some. Reading the following paragraph from the "order of aggressiveness" makes me think I should stick with Swirl x / Scratch X 2.0: Is this a good assumption?

You are on the right track. If ScratchX 2.0 does the job for you, there is absolutely no need to move up to M105, which is the most aggressive of Meguair's SMAT compounds.

4. I apply wax (NXT 2.0) by hand (megs foam applicator). I've been removing with a cheap $15 wal mart "buffer". Certainly makes things faster. If I remove with my new DA, can I cover a polishing or finishing pad with one of the "ultimate microfiber DA bonnets" and remove that way?

Use the finishing pad and cover it with a microfiber bonnet.

5. I've generally used the following procedure:
a: wash with gold class wash.
b: Dry w/ microfiber
c: Clay
D: Polish with deep crystal polish by hand (should I use a different product with the DA or is this ok? If so, do I apply with finishing pad?).
I'd normally apply NXT 2.0 now and call it done, but since I'm going to try some swirl removal:
e: swirl x w/ DA or scratch x 2.0 as appropriate before polish.
f: polish now step D.
g: NXT 2.0.

If you are going to polish out the car with SwirlX or anything stronger, then omit step d. The cleaner-polish (e.g., SwirlX, ScratchX, Ultimate Compound) will remove the glaze. If you desire, you can follow-up the cleaner-polish with Deep Crystal Polish, but remember that this is an optional step. You may find yourself so exhausted after everything else that you may want to skip the pure polish step and go directly to wax. At least, that is what has happened to me on more than one occasion.

Al

[rdblan2]

Re: newbie product questions

Thanks everyone. Really appreciate the help.