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The REAL skinny on manually removing lines and swirls...

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  • The REAL skinny on manually removing lines and swirls...

    Do you have the intestinal fortitude to spend an entire four hours on one automobile panel to reach the illusive perfect show car finish? If yes, you're nuttier than a fruitcake like me, if not, this thread will undoubtedly bore you. Have your wife pick up a can of some kind of wax at the supermarket and be done with it.

    Let me set the stage. In February of this year we purchase a new '08 MX-5 power retractable hardtop. It is resale red and contains no metallic additives. Just plain old screaming bright red. It was fresh out of Hiroshima and covered with protective sheeting as the salesman allowed my wife to take it for a spin.

    The car has less than 300 miles on it, and most of this was accumulated driving back from Daytona where we found the vehicle. Basically, it's a toy and merely sits in my garage.

    For months, it had never even been washed. Just UQD, NXT-2.0 and the biweekly extremely light dust off with the Original California Car Duster. I smoke a pipe, and my wife insists that I smoke out in the garage. To avoid suffocation in the Florida heat, I most always have the garage door open. We live in a suburban area without any industrial pollutants to deal with.

    Why bore you with this trivia you ask? It's actually extremely important. Our garage arrangement makes it only possible that I pull the Miata into the garage hood first. Hence, the trunk area, the subject of this thread, is subjected to the majority of the dust and pollen and any other miscellaneous air bourne particulates.

    I've recently noticed some micro scratching on the trunk lid. The rest of the finish is totally flawless. This is not your typical circular "swirling" pattern. More, it is a handful of ultra light short straight line micro lines. Maybe even nano lines. The absolute slightest and lightest you can possibly imagine. I attribute this to not only the greater amount of contaminants on this area by the open garage door, but also to the fact that I was, unfortunately for me, not using my UQD correctly. I was trying to stretch the life of my supply of UQD. I had found myself merely applying the slightest mist of product to the finish. I always made certain to flip, rotate, and change out my micro fiber towels frequently. Maybe too frequently, but you cannot be too careful. The rest of the car was able to luckily withstand my incorrect detailing process without any marring.

    If you're still awake, I'll now give my skinny on swirl removal without any power tools. My Swirl X and Scratch X 2.0 arrived late yesterday. I washed the car last evening using a grit guard, two buckets and all the other accoutrements I've learned of while on MOL.

    I started at noon today with a spotlessly clean finish. Just as a precaution, I did an UQD on the trunk lid just to make certain nothing had contaminated the finish overnight. All throughout the process, I used totally clean microfiber towels and Meguiar's yellow foam applicators, in addition to their Scratch X 2.0 and Swirl X, and later NXT-2.0.

    I first did a test spot on my door jam. This is totally virgin clear coat paint with only one coat of NXT 2.0. I noticed that even rubbing until the product was almost entirely gone, that the gloss and clarity of the test paint hadn't been compromised. I know, I know, do your test spot in a very conspicuous place, but this kid ain't about to start wailing on the trunk until he's totally convinced that only improvement will be the result, and my fantastic super clear sparkle won't be risked. Assured by my test spot, I went on.

    I mentally divided the tiny trunk lid into eight segments. No masking tape, just a pretty small sized area on which to concentrate at one time.

    I first applied a nickel size amount of Swirl X to the leading edge of the yellow pad. After c. one minute, all my old fingers and arm muscles could possibly stand at one time, I removed the tiny remaining bits of Swirl X with two sides of a clean towel. Nothing! No improvement whatsoever, nor did it degrade the finish.

    Seeing the total ineffectiveness of my first rub out, I turned to something I had planned on using in such a circumstance as this. While pondering today's project last night, I wondered how to fabricate "something" that would increase the effectiveness of each application. As I laid my coffee cup down on it's coaster, it hit me. My coaster was very thick and made totally of natural cork. Just enough firmness to not warp, and yet soft enough in case it ever came into contact with the paint.

    Wanting to give the Swirl X at least one more try, I placed the cork coaster on the top of my yellow foam applicator. I found it had enough grip to not move around. I had thought of double sided tape, but even after many applications, I found it not to be an issue.

    Only one minute into the "foam pad only" application, my fingers and the back of my upper armed began to feel things. I had been using a circular motion as well. In addition to the cork coaster, I also donned a pair of super soft deer skin gloves to cushion my fingers.

    Viola! (wahlah') I was able to apply much greater and much more even pressure to the lower product coated pad. My arms and fingers didn't feel a thing since I was now utilizing my upper body weight and not my arm strength to firm up the aggressiveness of the application. I used both hands as well, because if the plain four fingers are used, there's always a three position area between the fingers that gets little if any pressure.

    I also altered my rubbing pattern to a straight line pattern and totally dropped the circular motion since when done manually, it's just a plain waste of precious body strength. I rubbed with both hands in a total of four direction; mostly vertically, but also horizontally, and a diagonal process left to right and right to left. The nickel size amount of Swirl X thoroughly covered my tiny area, and I continued to vary my rubbing pattern so as to hit the scratches from all angles. I continued to rub out the product until it nearly disappeared, leaving only a quick two sided microfiber buff to get it ready for the next application.

    After, now three tries with Swirl X, I was totally disappointed. All the original lines still showed, albeit somewhat lighter and slightly diminished than prior to starting the process.

    As for not applying merely "coats" as some may erroneously try, I was actually rubbing out the suggested amount shown in the video of the Swirl X 'til it almost disappeared. As for "Passion", I was forced to fabricate a sweat band out of a soiled towel since my Passion was burning my eyes and droplets were falling on the trunk and streaking the finish as I worked.

    Is this to say that I don't care for Swirl X? Not one bit. I hope to at some point add a Meguiar's DA to my supplies, and I highly suspect it'll be quite an excellent choice for power manipulation of paint. However, I do humbly suggest it's a tad overstated on the label that it "Effortlessly removes swirl marks" and goes on to say on the back label "with moderate" pressure. Perhaps I have hard paint, perhaps the micro lines were a bit deeper due to my incorrect UQD technique, perhaps I'm just way too critical. At this point in time, and particularly for swirl removal on my car which has been totally babied, or forbid on the typically swirled 99.99% of the cars on the road, new or even well maintained, it leaves a lot of room for debate. It's akin to bringing a dull knife to a gun fight. That's not a criticism of Meguiar's fine, fine products. Just my observations on what I had thought might prove to be a simple afternoon project.

    The Swirl X returned to the kitchen table, and now it was on to Scratch X 2.0.

    Following the exact same procedures and technique, I found that four very laborious applications of Scratch X 2.0 was just the ticket. Again, laboring the product into the finish until it started to actually squeak as the foam went over, and nearly absorbing or removing the product itself. Polishing is a function of time, abrasive aggression and pressure.

    I followed the four Scratch X 2.0's with a light Swirl X rubbing. Maybe just because I had it on hand, but also to insure the maximum glistening of the paint. I must say that both products did produce a ready to be waxed finish. A new foam applicator and two coats of NXT-2.0 later, and my trunk is flawless.

    When I say flawless, it's just plain deep red. Crystal clear. Nothing, but nothing, but color. I frequent Barrett/Jackson at Scottsdale and also now at Palm Beach, and I'm not hesitant in saying that I've seen totally new restorations of six figure cars go on the block that are no better. They cannot be. Perfect is perfect. Thanks to Meguiar's for their fine products, for the corporate guys that help us out every day here, and for all the super advice I gleaned from all my fellow MOL's friends!!!

    Am I nuts? Most definitely so, but I'm also as happy as a pig in mud since, in my own mind, I've salvaged a finish flaw that nearly made me lose enthusiasm for my pride n joy.

    My fingers hurt from typing. Gonna grab a coffee and admire my efforts under the crystal clear overhead lights I've recently installed in the garage ceiling. Nothing fancy, just two 100 watt lamps; a lot cheaper than pricey swirl lamps, and the car sparkles like crazy. Be forewarned however, they show every flaw. Well, until this afternoon's project they did anyway!!!
    "If we knew what we were doing, it wouldn't be called research would it? (Albert Einstein 1879-1955)
    BOB

  • #2
    Re: The REAL skinny on manually removing lines and swirls...

    Yup.. the joys of working by hand. Sometimes it is good to bring in the big guns a little earlier.

    But I like the idea of something hard behind the pad. Probably could be looked into further, might be something even better out there.
    2017 Subaru WRX Premium - WR Blue

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: The REAL skinny on manually removing lines and swirls...

      Very interesting write-up. Read it all. You should post some pictures of the car!

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: The REAL skinny on manually removing lines and swirls...

        Huh, what? Did you say something? Sorry, guess I dozed off there for a minute.

        Just kidding! Good read, and glad to hear you achieved perfection with your baby! I dare say I think you have more fortitude and patience than I do!
        Shane
        1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera SL

        If you trim yourself to fit the world you'll whittle yourself away. - Aaron Tippin

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: The REAL skinny on manually removing lines and swirls...

          Good read, good solution. Way to go, Bob.
          quality creates its own demand

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: The REAL skinny on manually removing lines and swirls...

            Sounds like Ultimate Compound would have been your best friend in this situation. It also seems like the cause of the scratches on your hood are from the california Duster, not UQD. I have heard a few stories about the Duster scratching paint. Not because it is a bad product, but because thee was too much dirt/dust on the car and it needed to be washed. That would explain the straight line scratches.

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: The REAL skinny on manually removing lines and swirls...

              Great writeup. I second the california car duster as well...

              Comment


              • #8
                Re: The REAL skinny on manually removing lines and swirls...

                Hi Bob...By the way....Love your new Avatar...Cool!


                A very thorough but interesting read.

                Since I joined MOL,I've seen entire vehicles done by hand and I must say,I couldn't do that in a 100+ heat with 60%+ humidity.I find it hard going to do a spot by hand.In some spots,okay,where you can't go by machine.

                Your experimintation sounds good for flat surfaces.I thought about this in the past with an applicator that was burst at the seam and putting something soft but firm inside.This is something to play with and see how it fairs.

                Glad to hear that you managed to correct those minor scratches.


                Thanks for the write up Bob.

                TOP

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: The REAL skinny on manually removing lines and swirls...

                  Nice write up.... some pics of the shiny red would be nice

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Re: The REAL skinny on manually removing lines and swirls...

                    Way to persevere Bob, good to hear you were successful.

                    Patrick

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                    • #11
                      Re: The REAL skinny on manually removing lines and swirls...

                      Bob,

                      Nice job, but I think you would be ahead to get a job and by a pc.

                      Tom

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: The REAL skinny on manually removing lines and swirls...

                        Wow... The only thing I want to do by hand now is apply a super insanely smooth buttery oily boutique wax.

                        Otherwise, it's the DA or Rotary lol
                        2006 San Remo Red WRX TR
                        2005 Ford Ranger XLT

                        Detailers clean places nobody see. Detailer see's things nobody else see. But if you ask a Detailer to see how a dress looks on a woman, they are blind.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: The REAL skinny on manually removing lines and swirls...

                          Originally posted by Caress Detailing View Post
                          Wow... The only thing I want to do by hand now is apply a super insanely smooth buttery oily boutique wax.

                          Otherwise, it's the DA or Rotary lol

                          I agree.

                          Besides, with the very little polishing ability of waxes such as Gold Class Wax and NXT 2.0, you are better off working them in by machine. Also, you tend to use slightly less product with a machine, for some strange reason.

                          Comment

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