About three weeks ago, I Washed, clayed, Ultra Compounded, and NTX Waxed my Red 2001 Mustang I bought in May
The Mustang was apparently heavily oxidized since it went from an orange looking, flat, red to a deeper glossy red with a slight orange tint on the metal parts. The plastic bumpers went from pink to red. So after basicly 2 applications of UC and a coat of NTX, I was quite happy, but knew it was not perfect. I can see it is not the original color yet, but I was afraid to take too much paint. I figured in the Fall I would work on removing more oxidation - I should be smarter by then..
One area not looking good was the spoiler wing on the trunk. It looked much better after 5-6 applications of UC, but not as good as the rest of the car.
This weekend I decided to wash my inlaws' Crown Vic to be a nice guy. I used Crystal Car Wash. The car was parked near the Mustang and I guess some water splashed on the Mustang. Later that day I noticed lots of water spots on the Mustang trunk and Spoiler.
I figure these would wipe off fairly easy since it had fresh coat of NTX. The trunk did come up easily with some minor water rings left behind that came out with Crystal Car Wash follwed by QD. The spoiler is not so good.
The water spots were white and plentiful. I washed, QD, clayed, and spent two hours and a quater bottle of Ultimate Compound with a DA polisher. The spots are lighter and the color of the spoiler is looking better, but there is a ways to go to perfection.
So, while spending some time working with the polisher, I came up with some questions that I hope can be answered here.
1) What happened? If the surface is protected by NTX, how could the paint be etched? The mustang has been in rain and I also have washed the Mustang since waxing it and have not seen any water spots.
2) Is there something in the Crystal Car Wash that reacted with the NTX to cause this? Do I need to be sure not to wash a car near another car?
3) Why did the trunk lid clean up so easily but the spoiler have this problem? Was this caused by the remaining oxidation?
4) Should I have been using a stronger product? What can I find in the retail stores (consumer line?) without going to a polishing compound (rocks)? The spots are 75% gone, and I do see progress with UC. I figure another hour or so and 10 more applications of UC and I'll be ready for NTX.
5) how many applications of UC were needed to remove the NTX?
6) Is NTX the proper protectorant or will this happen again?
Any help would be apprciated.
The Mustang was apparently heavily oxidized since it went from an orange looking, flat, red to a deeper glossy red with a slight orange tint on the metal parts. The plastic bumpers went from pink to red. So after basicly 2 applications of UC and a coat of NTX, I was quite happy, but knew it was not perfect. I can see it is not the original color yet, but I was afraid to take too much paint. I figured in the Fall I would work on removing more oxidation - I should be smarter by then..
One area not looking good was the spoiler wing on the trunk. It looked much better after 5-6 applications of UC, but not as good as the rest of the car.
This weekend I decided to wash my inlaws' Crown Vic to be a nice guy. I used Crystal Car Wash. The car was parked near the Mustang and I guess some water splashed on the Mustang. Later that day I noticed lots of water spots on the Mustang trunk and Spoiler.
I figure these would wipe off fairly easy since it had fresh coat of NTX. The trunk did come up easily with some minor water rings left behind that came out with Crystal Car Wash follwed by QD. The spoiler is not so good.
The water spots were white and plentiful. I washed, QD, clayed, and spent two hours and a quater bottle of Ultimate Compound with a DA polisher. The spots are lighter and the color of the spoiler is looking better, but there is a ways to go to perfection.
So, while spending some time working with the polisher, I came up with some questions that I hope can be answered here.
1) What happened? If the surface is protected by NTX, how could the paint be etched? The mustang has been in rain and I also have washed the Mustang since waxing it and have not seen any water spots.
2) Is there something in the Crystal Car Wash that reacted with the NTX to cause this? Do I need to be sure not to wash a car near another car?
3) Why did the trunk lid clean up so easily but the spoiler have this problem? Was this caused by the remaining oxidation?
4) Should I have been using a stronger product? What can I find in the retail stores (consumer line?) without going to a polishing compound (rocks)? The spots are 75% gone, and I do see progress with UC. I figure another hour or so and 10 more applications of UC and I'll be ready for NTX.
5) how many applications of UC were needed to remove the NTX?
6) Is NTX the proper protectorant or will this happen again?
Any help would be apprciated.
Comment