Last night I washed, clayed, and began trying the killer combo everyone raves about. A friend of mine pulled in late last night needing help on his car so I have a taped up Ranger here @ work. I got to play with the 105 and noticed a huge difference in the majority of the swirls, However bigger scratches remain, they are not to the paint, but with the 105 followed with the 205 I wasn't getting my desired results. Time was a factor so when i get off work I will go right back @ it. I can see a person go crazy trying to acheive 100% correction.
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M105/m205
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Re: M105/m205
This is all being done on my truck, I've been using the KBM with my G110 and a yellow pad, What MF's are you using to removing the 105? Seems the more bite the better because its nothing like the 205 haha!"Every moment frontin and maxin
Chillin in the car they spent all day waxin"
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Re: M105/m205
Keep in mind that some scratches can be so deep that removing them would mean removing all or very close to all of the clear coat. This would take several passes with M105 (by design, the product isn't meant to remove your entire clear coat) to achieve.
Sometimes with a daily driver or a car that has been abused it makes more sense to do 1-2 passes with M105, and then move on to the M205 rather than remove all of the paint and be stuck with a re-paint down the road.
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Re: M105/m205
Are you doing this with a DA or Rotary?
From what I understand, M105 + Rotary is the TRUE magical fairy dust combo.
That, and it only takes 12-15 seconds per pass, which in threads I've seen usually removed 75% of the defects leaving only behind the deepest scratches or marring.
I've used M105 on a LC orange pad with a PC7424, while it works, it takes upwards of 3 minutes to really get the desired results on a 2'x2' area on my Ford Ranger.2006 San Remo Red WRX TR
2005 Ford Ranger XLT
Detailers clean places nobody see. Detailer see's things nobody else see. But if you ask a Detailer to see how a dress looks on a woman, they are blind.
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Re: M105/m205
I get a lot more dust with M105 on a rotary then with my flex. Today I worked on a Volvo with rock hard clear. M105 on a red solo wool pad and the flex on speed 6 only removed the little swirls. The deeper swirls and rids all didn't go away. I achieved great results on Ceramic clear and corvette clear but this clear was just way too hard. Even tried the Makita and this helped just a little bit. Didn't even had any holograms with M105 and the red solo pad.If you think it it's expensive to hire a professional,
hire an amateur first.
King of the Mustang louvers
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Re: M105/m205
Originally posted by Mark Kleis View PostKeep in mind that some scratches can be so deep that removing them would mean removing all or very close to all of the clear coat. This would take several passes with M105 (by design, the product isn't meant to remove your entire clear coat) to achieve.
Sometimes with a daily driver or a car that has been abused it makes more sense to do 1-2 passes with M105, and then move on to the M205 rather than remove all of the paint and be stuck with a re-paint down the road.
WOuld you recommend the M205 with the foam or finishing pad?
*G110 w/ 2.0 pads*"Every moment frontin and maxin
Chillin in the car they spent all day waxin"
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Re: M105/m205
Works great on both. Depends a bit on the softness of the paint. On some paints you can finish great with the yellow pad. But some paints are a bit softer and you get more shine if you follow up with the black pad.If you think it it's expensive to hire a professional,
hire an amateur first.
King of the Mustang louvers
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Re: M105/m205
Originally posted by Zuke View PostWOuld you recommend the M205 with the foam or finishing pad?
*G110 w/ 2.0 pads*
It depends what you are trying to accomplish. If you are using it to remove defects of mild to medium nature, then go with the polishing pad. If you have a 95%~ defect-free surface than use the finishing pad and simply use the M205 to refine the surface for ultimate depth and gloss.
I've polished entire vehicles with M205 and yellow to 95% correction with 1-2 passes, rotary OR G110. Other times I just use M205 and a finishing pad to remove the faintest of remaining holograms and/or simply to refine the finish and take it to "the next level."
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