Used the PC for the first time...Couple os ?'s

[Bri9801]

It finally got warm enough yesterday for me to try out the PC for the first time.....(on the wife's car of course) and I got a couple of question.....

I used #9 and I understand your supposed to work it till it is nearly dry....I had a hard time telling this....Does anybody have any tips on this one.....Is it something you can see or is it something you just know? Also the oily feel when removing it is normal right?

Also, I used the PC to apply #26, which I have been using for a couple of years now by hand and I love, and was wondering....Is it possible to put the coat of wax on too thin? The PC really puts down a thin coat, which makes it super super easy to remove, but I was just wondering if it's OK. I was going to put on another coat to be sure but the wife wanted to go out.

My overall impression with my first PC experience is that it certainly made the job a whole lot easier and the time difference was amazing.

thanks

Brian

[Mike Phillips]

Hi Brian,

To date, I have never met anyone who has regretted purchasing the PC, I'm sure you learn to love this efficient and labor saving tool.

Yesterday, I detailed a 1947 Plymouth Coupe and did everything by hand. This includes claying the entire car, (it had white paint overspray everywhere on it), and then thoroughly applying the ColorX followed with one coat of NXT Tech Wax. (If a few moments, I'm going to apply a second coat of Tech Wax)

My fingers, hands and arms are sore today. The entire time I kept wanting to grab the PC and let it do the work, but I wanted to show what can be done with these two products by hand.

Write-up to be posted today.

Now to your questions,

When applying the #9, or any of the Meguiar's cleaner/polishes using the PC, you want to work the product until the diminishing abrasives have completely broken down, but not so long that you buff to a dry buff. There should always be a wet film left behind as you're move the PC over the surface. If the film you're leaving behind is dry then you have more than likely buffed the product to long. This applies to waxes also. I have watched people apply the Tech Wax to the point where they were buffing dry. This is a no-no.

Thin coats of #26 Hi Tech Yellow Wax are okay. The paint surface will only hold so much wax at any given time, any extra wax will simply be removed. You want to use ample wax to leave behind a uniform film, but you don't want to go overboard to the point of wasting product.

Mike

[rusty bumper]

Mike, would you include DACP in this catagory too?

I've heard some say that DACP should be buffed until dry when using a PC.

[Dave Holmes]

Rusty Bumper,
For me, I work DACP until I just start to see it getting a little powdery. I think at that point, it's not DRY, but not really WET. More of a damp or maybe "oily" if this makes sense. The amount of time it takes to do this can vary, also. Things like PC speed (I will go to 5.5-6), pad type, surface temp, humidity, etc, all affect it to some extent (atleast for me).

Bri9801,
One problem I have applying wax or sealants by PC is that it gets hard to see on my white paint. And applying by PC enables me to get it thin, which makes it even harder to see. So I do a little, then look at it from different angles to check if I can see a "film" or "smears" on my paint. If I do, I know I actually have product on the surface. And like Mike said, paint can only hold so much wax/sealant. I believe anything more than this "film" or "smears" appearance is just going to be buffed off, and therefore a waste of product. I also keep the speed lower (about 3 or so) because when I have it higher, the product seems to actually dry too fast. To help prevent this drying in Louisiana's heat, I've found a spritz of QD on the pad helps prevent premature drying while applying.

Dave

[Billorlando]

All of you seem to understand how to use CP or DACP . However I am wondering what type of pads you are using for each step? Obviously you under stand that a wool pad can cut quicker than a foam pad however wool pads can not leave a finish like a foam pad. Yet foam pads might give you a better finish, they can self destruct (fall apart) alot faster than wool the products. It seems to me from your recent replies. You guys are pretty much at the finish Stage or possibly a little heavier but they are not in the compound area of polishes /compounds. I would like to say if you are having trouble seeing the haze on your vehicle goto a lighter Pad .Preferrably foam . You can read the pad better . However it does take a little practice.. Also on the point about how to tell if you have gone to far with the chemical if you are leaveing a haze you are doing it right. Everytime you spin you create heat and when you leave the area it does not take long for the chemical to haze up! The only thing you want to be careful of is completely taking the chemical off then you are not waxing or polishing you are dry sanding. That is where most of your swirl marks come from
or a holigram effect appears... Have a great time bill..

[CHzo6]

I am wondering what speed settings should be used on the Porter Cable for : Paint cleaner, polish and wax.
Any info would be helpful.
Thanks

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by CHzo6
I am wondering what speed settings should be used on the Porter Cable for : Paint cleaner, polish and wax.
Any info would be helpful.
Thanks

For paint cleaners and cleaner/polishes, you can use the 4.0 to 5.0 setting with the W-8006 foam polishing pad. This is the setting where the oscillating action will be fast enough to enable the foam pad and your choice of product to affect the paint. By the word affect, I mean to remove defects.

For Polish and Wax application, you can use a OPM setting from 1.0 to 4.0 At this stage of the game, you are no longer trying to remove defects from the finish, but instead are trying to apply a thin, even, thoroughly applied coating of product. Use a setting between the range of 1.0 and 4.0 that feels good you.

Hope this helps...

Mike

[CHzo6]

Thanks a lot for the info. I got the PC last year and have been using it without really knowing what settings were best for the products. Although I may not have had the settings right, all the Meguiars stuff I have used has produced excellent results.

I look forward to using this forum more often !!

[agentf1]

And how much pressure do you apply? I have also noticed that I end up with a milky finish when using the firm to med pads, what am I doing wrong or is this normal?

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by agentf1
And how much pressure do you apply? I have also noticed that I end up with a milky finish when using the firm to med pads, what am I doing wrong or is this normal?

Hi agentf1,

Welcome to Meguiar's Online Discussion Forum!

You know, I was in some threads over your question over on another forum where I stated that it's possible to dull a finish using the PC. Another person didn't understand how that could be possible, yet by your post to this thread, it reads like you have experienced this?

The problem people run into when trying to remove defects using the PC is because of it's gentle nature, they tend towards,

* Pushing down harder
* Using a more aggressive pad, either wool or foam
* Using a more aggressive product such as a compound
* Buffing longer

While the above items will often work with a rotary buffer to remove stubborn defects, when used with a PC it tends to dull the finish. Some of, or all of the above 4 items may aid in the removal of a defects such as a scratch or an etching, but it will usually leave the finish looking dull or milky as you describe it.

That's because the PC just doesn't offer the same kind of polishing-effect that the rotary offers and borrowing products and techniques that work with one tool and using them with another tool doesn't automatically insure success.

"Paint is a thin, delicate coating that is easily scratched, and easily dulled"

You have to do everything you can to reduce the potential for instilling scratches and dulling the finish while at the same time doing everything you can to increase your chances for taking your paint to it's maximum potential.


A great start to accomplish both is to choose Meguiar's.

I always recommend performing a Test Spot when trying something new to you, or working on a finish you are unfamiliar with. Performing a test spot simply means,

Apply to one small section, your choice of products and procedures, all they way through the process to your last step product and then wipe off and inspect.

If you cannot make one small area look good with your choice of products and procedures, you will not be able to make the entire car look good and it may be a good idea to step back and try a different plan of attack.

Here is an example of the above. You have a neglected finish. To fix the finish you decide to clean the paint with Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner, then polish the paint with #9 Swirl Remover 2.0 and then apply Tech Wax to top it off. Your plan may include

A) Using the porter cable dual action polisher for all three steps
B) Using your hands for all three steps

Either way, test each step, in order, until you get to the last step which will be wiping off the your choice of wax and inspecting your results. (Hopefully under different lighting conditions including both bright light indoors and outdoors).

If it looks good, then repeat the process over the entire car. If it doesn't look good, then time to step back and re-evaluate your plan of attack. It's also a good time to call Meguiar’s Customer Care Hotline, or come post your situation here on the forum.

If your results look milky after using the porter cable dual action polisher, then something isn't right with either your,

* Pad selection
* Product selection
* Pressure being applied
* Speed setting of machine

And more than likely a combination of all of the above.

Remember, there are just some things your hand, or a PC cannot do. Removing deep scratches and deep etchings usually will require the use of a rotary buffer in the hands of a qualified and experienced professional. This is especially true with modern clear coat finishes which are much harder, (generally speaking), than traditional enamels and lacquers.

Mike