Announcement

**Mike Phillips** · May 28, 2009, 04:15 PM

Re: Buffer pads

To start out, get a few, like two or three of our yellow foam polishing pads for correction work, you can get either the washable 7" pads or the non-washable 6" pads, your choice. There's a thread in Hot Topics or How To Articles on how people clean their non-washable pads.

Get one finishing pad as you only need one to apply wax to then entire car and use this for your finishing wax.

Use the yellow pads on the 5.0 Speed Setting
Use the finishing pad on the 3.0 to 4.0 Speed Setting for applying your finishing wax.

Might think about trying out Ultimate Compound and SwirlX instead of M83 and M80

**Murr1525** · May 28, 2009, 04:15 PM

Re: Buffer pads

As a starting place, here's wha to to do:

Go to autodetailingsolutions.com, and order a case of 6 Soft Buff 2.0 pads:

1 Cutting, 3 Polishing, and 2 Finishing.

You'll want to use the polishing pads for the cleaner/polishes, and the finishing pad for the wax.

Then, if you order a pack of microfiber bonnets, you can use those over the cutting pad to remove wax.

Or if you want to remove wax by hand, just skip the cutting pad and get an extra polishing pad.

**FRAZY_z28** · May 28, 2009, 07:15 PM

Re: Buffer pads

Originally posted by Mike Phillips View Post

...

Might think about trying out Ultimate Compound and SwirlX instead of M83 and M80

Thanks for the tips, but why? I thought I was supposed to try to start with the least aggressive products first? The combination of M83 and M80 would rate less aggressive than the two you suggested, correct?

Do you suggest the UC and SwirlX because they offer the SMAT instead of DAT? Is the SMAT easier for beginners, and would yeild quicker results?
Just curious.

BTW, Mike I watched your video on YouTube for how to wash your car (show car style). Very nice, very informative! Enjoyed it. Good job.

**FRAZY_z28** · May 28, 2009, 07:16 PM

Re: Buffer pads

Thanks for the tips Murr, I'll check it out

**Murr1525** · May 29, 2009, 12:18 AM

Re: Buffer pads

The thing with the older DAT products is that everything needed worked in completly to do a good job.

With these new products, you can take something like Ultimate Compound, and work it in gently, and have a mild product. Nothing needs worked in completley any more. Of course it is a more expensive product in that case, but you see the point.

SwirlX/#205, as mentioned in another post, would be very similar to #80, possibly even better for your paint. And then #105/UC would be a step up if you needed it.

A lot of the links on this board are a couple years old. And while all of the general ideas stay the same, there are a few new products working thier way in to replace some products in the teaching threads.

You should also consider the "How to Get Show Car Results with PC" DVD by Mike Phillips and Richard Lin. High quality viewing.

**Mike Phillips** · May 29, 2009, 08:31 AM

Re: Buffer pads

Originally posted by FRAZY_z28 View Post

Thanks for the tips, but why? I thought I was supposed to try to start with the least aggressive products first?

The combination of M83 and M80 would rate less aggressive than the two you suggested, correct?

Murr1525 pretty much answered your question and we know it can be confusing sometimes but because you can stop at any time during the buffing cycle with the new SMAT products it does tend to make them a little more Bubba-Proof.

They are also brand new technology and work great on most paint systems so they're just as good as and in some ways better to start with than our traditional M83 and M80

Your choice, just some friendly recommendations.

**FRAZY_z28** · May 29, 2009, 08:35 AM

Re: Buffer pads

Cool. I'll take it all into consideration! Thx

Announcement

Buffer pads

Buffer pads

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment

Comment