60's Porsche White Paint Single Stage - process?

[jlb85]

During the Detailing 101 Class I attended a few weeks ago Mike (or someone) mentioned that when trying to buff out white single stage all you get is burnt paint, but I forgot to catch up to him later and ask how to do it correctly.

So fast forward to this week and I get a referral to a '67 911 Targa that is 100% original and has something like 10,000 original miles. As far as we could tell, the car has never been detailed. It is in very good condition, but will need some finish restoration.

So, because I am now scared to "experiment" on this one, how do I attack it? Has anyone here had the chance to work on a 60's white SS Porsche paint? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

[Andrew C.]

Re: 60's Porsche White Paint Single Stage - process?

Does it have any swirls or oxidation? Treat the paint just as you would a clear coat, the difference is that you will have white coming off on your pad rather than clear. If you have swirls, remove them with the proper product by doing a test spot. Can you post up some pictures.

If it is severely oxidized, you may want to give it a hit with a paint cleaner then clay, then go to doing full correction work.

Here is a SS van I worked on http://acautospa.weebly.com/1970s-dodge-van.html

[jlb85]

Re: 60's Porsche White Paint Single Stage - process?

Hey Andrew, I was looking at your website a few nights ago, and really liked the van!

The reason I ask about the white paint is because, as discussed during the class, the white is much harder than other colors, which greatly increases the risk of burning the paint prior to removing any.

But at least this car doesn't have deep defects other than typical swirls. No holograms, and from what I saw from close but quick, no cracks or spiderwebbing (but I won't be sure until I clay). There is a good portion of the car I will need to do by hand since there is no room for a power tool. My plan for these areas is simply Ultimate Compound on a foam applicator pad and lots of tape. But the larger areas, and the vintage of the car really make me nervous about going the usual "test panel" route and experimenting. I will still do test panels, but would like to have a good idea where to start before hand.

[Markus Kleis]

Re: 60's Porsche White Paint Single Stage - process?

What machines and products do you have on hand?

Unless you are working with a rotary burning shouldn't be an issue...even then, it shouldn't be an issue with proper technique and products.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: 60's Porsche White Paint Single Stage - process?

During the Detailing 101 Class I attended a few weeks ago Mike (or someone) mentioned that when trying to buff out white single stage all you get is burnt paint, but I forgot to catch up to him later and ask how to do it correctly.

I'm pretty confident I taught the class and also pretty confident I never said that if you work on white paint you'll burn through it.

Truth is you can burn through any color paint if you use too aggressive of products and don't use common sense.

The thing about single stage white paint is you're working on paint that is affected by the pigment in a way that usually makes it harder than most paints because of the pigment itself.

See this article for an in-depth explanation...

The Lesson White Paint Teaches Us

So fast forward to this week and I get a referral to a '67 911 Targa that is 100% original and has something like 10,000 original miles. As far as we could tell, the car has never been detailed. It is in very good condition, but will need some finish restoration.

Sounds like fun!

Because it's old paint, you just want to be careful around any edges or high points.

So, because I am now scared to "experiment" on this one, how do I attack it? Has anyone here had the chance to work on a 60's white SS Porsche paint? Any and all help is greatly appreciated!

Just stick to the basics,

1. Evaluate the condition of the paint - Does it have oxidation? Swirls?
2. Choose the right product - Balance your product choice to the goal for the paint.
3. Use good technique


If you want to be super careful, then simply rub this paint out the old fashioned way and that's by hand, you can use a variety of different paint cleaners from very gentle to very aggressive.

If you want to restore the paint by machine, then stick with foam polishing pads and cleaner/polishes and avoid buffing on any edges or high points.

Above all, when you go to work on the car, take your collection of products for correcting paint issues along with detailing clay and after washing and drying or wiping the car clean to remove any dust, inspect to see if it needs to be clayed and if it does then clay the paint.

Now start doing some Test Spots and dial-in a process that reaches the goal. Your test spot by hand or machine should give you an indicator of how hard or soft the paint is by comparing how many defects you removed to the surrounding paint you have not worked on.

If the goal is simply to remove any oxidation and other surface contaminants and the get some gloss, then you can use just about any of our paint cleaners or cleaner/polishes by hand or machine and get great results.

Then a couple coats of wax and it should look pretty clean and glossy.

[Rick McDonough]

Re: 60's Porsche White Paint Single Stage - process?

I would love to see pictures after the Targa has been detailed! I worked for several years at a Porsche dealership on the east coast which definitely furthered my excitement for the brand!

[Andrew C.]

Re: 60's Porsche White Paint Single Stage - process?

What Mike said

[rgcurtis]

Re: 60's Porsche White Paint Single Stage - process?

"Slow and steady wins the race" - Tortoise Just take your time and work methodically and you should get the results you are looking for. Oh, ditto what Mike P. said.

[jlb85]

Re: 60's Porsche White Paint Single Stage - process?

What machines and products do you have on hand?

Unless you are working with a rotary burning shouldn't be an issue...even then, it shouldn't be an issue with proper technique and products.

I got it all: rotaries, DAs, pads in foam and wool, compounds, etc. Products, no problem. However, the proper technique is what I want to be SURE I have at least researched prior to the job.

I'm pretty confident I taught the class and also pretty confident I never said that if you work on white paint you'll burn through it.

Truth is you can burn through any color paint if you use too aggressive of products and don't use common sense.

The thing about single stage white paint is you're working on paint that is affected by the pigment in a way that usually makes it harder than most paints because of the pigment itself.

See this article for an in-depth explanation...

"A Lesson From White Paint"




Sounds like fun!

Because it's old paint, you just want to be careful around any edges or high points.




Just stick to the basics,

1. Evaluate the condition of the paint - Does it have oxidation? Swirls?
2. Choose the right product - Balance your product choice to the goal for the paint.
3. Use good technique


If you want to be super careful, then simply rub this paint out the old fashioned way and that's by hand, you can use a variety of different paint cleaners from very gentle to very aggressive.

If you want to restore the paint by machine, then stick with foam polishing pads and cleaner/polishes and avoid buffing on any edges or high points.

Above all, when you go to work on the car, take your collection of products for correcting paint issues along with detailing clay and after washing and drying or wiping the car clean to remove any dust, inspect to see if it needs to be clayed and if it does then clay the paint.

Now start doing some Test Spots and dial-in a process that reaches the goal. Your test spot by hand or machine should give you an indicator of how hard or soft the paint is by comparing how many defects you removed to the surrounding paint you have not worked on.

If the goal is simply to remove any oxidation and other surface contaminants and the get some gloss, then you can use just about any of our paint cleaners or cleaner/polishes by hand or machine and get great results.

Then a couple coats of wax and it should look pretty clean and glossy.

Mike, thanks for all your help! You gave me some excellent advice when I attended the class, and you continue to do here. The link provided pretty much summed up my fears, and explained workarounds to many of them. You answer the rest in your post.

I will take my arsenal, and since the client live close to my house, I can always "adjust inventory" during my "lunch break". There is also a Auto Paint Supply store close by with a few products, with a good selection of pads.

I would love to see pictures after the Targa has been detailed! I worked for several years at a Porsche dealership on the east coast which definitely furthered my excitement for the brand!

I was blown away when I saw it, and I'm sure you will be too. This is definitely one I will want to document thoroughly and post on the forum!! Stay tuned...

"Slow and steady wins the race" - Tortoise Just take your time and work methodically and you should get the results you are looking for. Oh, ditto what Mike P. said.

agreed 100%!! I asked the owner if he has a specific date he wants it done by, like for a show or a trip. He said no, so I told him I'd prefer him to set aside a few days to work on it.




Thanks to all for the advice!

Regards,
Jacob

[PorscheGuy997]

Re: 60's Porsche White Paint Single Stage - process?

If you pay for my plane ticket, I'll polish it for free.


I really enjoy working on early 911's.