Will this process even work... Starts with wet sanding...

[nyjz1298]

I have very bad acid etching. I purchased some M105, a Orange Cutting Pad from LC, Maguiars 1500 unigrit paper and the foam sanding pad. I'm planning on buffing everything out with my G110. I know M105 will clear up 1200 or finer sanding marks and M105 is DA approved. Does anyone know if this process sounds flawed? I'm hoping to NOT get a rotary buffer. I feel like I could figure it out and if needed, clear up any harshness set in from the rotary with the DA.

[TH0001]

Re: Will this process even work... Starts with wet sanding...

I have very bad acid etching. I purchased some M105, a Orange Cutting Pad from LC, Maguiars 1500 unigrit paper and the foam sanding pad. I'm planning on buffing everything out with my G110. I know M105 will clear up 1200 or finer sanding marks and M105 is DA approved. Does anyone know if this process sounds flawed? I'm hoping to NOT get a rotary buffer. I feel like I could figure it out and if needed, clear up any harshness set in from the rotary with the DA.

Personally I don't think your process will work, nor even be close to working.

When Meg's rates the grit of the sanding marks it 'can' remove, it is likely on fresh paint, which is significantly easier to polish.

Even 3000 grit sanding marks usually require a heavy compound, a wool pad, and a rotary polisher, and many passes with a rotary polisher, to fully remove all tracers.

1500 grit scratches are going to be VERY hard to remove with a rotary, wool, and compound on most paints, and even then, you will likely have a very fine straight line texture to the paint when you are done.

[b00g2003]

Re: Will this process even work... Starts with wet sanding...

hey there.

First I've found this thread to be very helpful!!!
http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20874

I have never tried to remove sanding marks with the G110, I would almost be willing to say the action might be too gentle. I'm not saying that it can not be done, there are just more efficient ways of going about it. If the G110 is all you have to work with, I would probably have a rotary laying around for some backup. Someone with more experience removing sanding scratches with the G110 can jump in...

If you are working on OEM clear coat, just remember you don't have a lot of paint millage (thickness) to do aggressive sanding and buffing. I normally with try to start with the finest paper, 3000 and if that don't cut it move down to 2000 and then 1500 if that doesn't work.

Another tip to try is to refine your sanding scratches with finer paper before you buff. EX - if you start with 1500, follow that with 2000 and 3000.. A finer scratch will be easier to remove... Always use Mike Phillips advice about using the least aggressive product necessary to get the job done.

I use a rotary to remove any sort of sand scratches. I normally will start with a foam cutting pad on the rotary and some 105, do a test spot, if it seems to cut well, I'll continue that process. If it doesn't seem to cut, I'll move onto the wool solo pad. I have seen few clears out there that 105 and the foam pad won't cut, but they are out there!! If this is your first job with a rotary, this would be a good time for an ol' timer with some experience to stand over your shoulder to lend a helping hand...

After the compounding stage I'll come back in with less aggressive products to remove the hazing and compounding swirls with different pads and product. I can go on for days about this stuff!!

I know I got off the subject but I want you to be prepared if you sand your hood all up and can't get the scratches out with the G110!!


Good Luck!!!

[Andrew C.]

Re: Will this process even work... Starts with wet sanding...

Just a quick response, Meguiar's does not suggest removing ANY sanding marks with a DA. It is just not strong enough. In order to remove wet sanding marks you must use a rotary.

[nyjz1298]

Re: Will this process even work... Starts with wet sanding...

Hm. I'm somewhat disappointed with my G110 purchase. It seems so gentle that it's hardly able to do anything. Only the finest imperfections can be removed by it.

Well, I'm going to give things a shot minus the wet sanding. Too bad I already bought a 25 pack of 1500 grit.

I hope the DA and M105 will be enough to clean up most of the acid etching and get ride of that "micropitting" that shows up in direct sunlight... I might have to go the rotary route sometime, but after all... it's just a daily driver.

[roger 668]

Re: Will this process even work... Starts with wet sanding...

You will need a rotary!

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Will this process even work... Starts with wet sanding...

Hm. I'm somewhat disappointed with my G110 purchase. It seems so gentle that it's hardly able to do anything.

The irony... one of the reasons MOST, not all but most people like DA style polishers is because UNLIKE the rotary buffer they have a clutch and this makes them safe so you won't burn through the paint or instill swirls, its' also why they are gentle.

Only the finest imperfections can be removed by it.

Actually, using good technique, the right pads and products you can do amazing correction work with a DA Polisher, it does take a little practice if you're just starting out.

there's a wealth of information in these two forum groups,

Hot Topics
How To Articles


Here's two threads out of the "Hot Topics" forum.

Can You Use the PC to Polish-out #2000 Grit Sanding Marks?
Cutting Pads with the PC - Is this a good idea?


The reason a rotary buffer works best to remove sanding marks is because it's a direct drive tool, that is when you pull the trigger the buffing pad will start to rotate and it won't stop just by pushing too hard on it, instead it will remove paint and remove it fairly quickly. That's a dangerous thing for Newbies just learning the way of the machine.

Start out with the DA Polisher and read this article thoroughly before starting...

How To use: G110 - G220 - G100 - PC/Porter Cable - UDM
If you're moving up to machine polishing, be sure to read the below thread before starting...
Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher
(These are all similar tools)


Just to note for everyone reading this, I know a DA Polisher with the right pads, chemicals and technique can remove sanding marks, I've been doing this for a couple of years now, so "yes" I do understand this, that said this isn't my forum it's Meguiar's forum and Meguiar's recommends using a rotary buffer to remove sanding marks as it's the best tool for the job.

One thing for sure, sanding down an ENTIRE car and buffing 100% of ALL the sanding marks out using a rotary buffer is a TON of work. Trying to do it all using a tool with a clutch is only going to take longer with a lot more work.

It can be done, check it out here,

New Paint on the Pony! - Color Sanding and Buffing follow-up


And if you look at the second post and click on the links in that post you'll see we even helped this guy to reach his goal.

Congratulations!

Just goes to show what you can do with persistence and perspiration! We would like to thank your son for serving and you for being a Super Dad! We'd also like to thank you for coming back and posting a follow-up to your other threads and sharing the status of the project Mustang for your son. Many people join the forum to get information about how to tackle a project but so often we never hear or see the follow-up, so thank you.

Here's a list of your previous threads that led up to this one, you've really put in a lot of online time into researching this project and then a lot of hard work offline into making it happen.


New here and here for my son
color sanding and all that good stuff by hand
is outside temp important when color sanding
a question about cleaning paint b4 wet sanding
color sanding and taping off edges
m105 and removing sanding marks

In this particular situation the Dad was willing to invest a lot of time and work into sanding down the paint and buffing out the sanding marks using a PC but he also notes he couldn't get out all of the Tracers, but he was okay with that.

We often deal with members on this forum that want absolute perfection even when using the wrong tool for the job and it can be very hard to explain to them that their expectations are not based in reality.


For what you're trying to do, if the car is a daily driver, we don't recommend trying to get each and every little scratch or in your case etching, out of the car as it's likely going to get more abuse in the future and removing 100% of an etching might leave you with very thin clear paint to try to last over the service life of the car.


Some etchings, or holes in the paint can be quite deep so trying to remove them means going through the clear and into the basecoat paint and this would ruin the paint and force you to have to repaint the car.

Look at the etching from this thread,

How To Remove Water Spots off Automotive Paints

Type II Water Spots - Etchings below the surface




Close-up of same photo above




Hope this helps to some level...

[nyjz1298]

Re: Will this process even work... Starts with wet sanding...

Thanks for the response Mike. Please check this thread I started a while back....

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32091&highlight=acid+etching

I WISH my acid etching was as mild as the picture above. I'm sure just some M105 after a pass or two would resolve that. The only areas with etching is my hood and the top. Thankfully it's a Saab with a Hatch so theres no trunk to sand. And I have a sunroof so even less to work with.

I think I'll skip the sanding for now and just start with the M105 M205 to see how things work out. I have a "cutting" foam pad from LC that I'm going to attempt with the compounds.

I sure wish my car wasn't black...

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Will this process even work... Starts with wet sanding...

I think I'll skip the sanding for now and just start with the M105 M205 to see how things work out. I have a "cutting" foam pad from LC that I'm going to attempt with the compounds.

Be sure to do a test spot or two until you dial in a system that gives you the results you're looking for.

I sure wish my car wasn't black...

Silver metallic next time...