Rotary or DA

[Yoseff]

So as a quick intro... I worked in a detail shop for 3 years but, this was over 15 years ago, not sure if it holds much water or not...

I recently purchased a 98 toyota (black) which is in need of some serious help, not sure if I can get by with a DA or need the power of a rotary...

On hand I have 105, 205, speed 80, UC, scratch 2.0, nxt, clay, everything but some power...

I tried to take some pics of the vehicle to show the general condition of the paint, hood is the worst with bird droppings or serious water spots baked in, overall car has lots of water spots, light scratches, and just dull finish, previous owner had just waxed it with who knows what, no correction...

Tried to take pics, had to use kids camera and it's super overcast.

Side of car, lots of light scratches, some deeper, nails don't catch:



Hood, water/bird etching:


Hood again:


wish pics were better, I can really only afford (aka talk wife into) getting a nice da (G110) or rotary (hitachi sp18), I don't mind having to go over the car 2x with a da, but if more than that would wish for the power of the rotary.

Plan was to clay, go UC, if UC didn't work drop to 105, (scratch 2.0 hood) go 205, then speed 80, then XTC, still have to figure out pads and power...

I'm really hoping that the rotary will be somewhat like riding a bike (I get the flow back, not too worried about burning) but our other cars are all newer and a da would be plenty, tough decision, any recommendations?

Thanks

[Maserati Mario]

Re: Rotary or DA

Well M105 is designed for a rotary
That paint needs some deep paint removal in some parts,
I would use the M105 a wool pad and a rotary on that scratch, but that's me, I have a more experience than you.
Meg's says "use the least aggressive action first". So go the general route first and ALWAYS DO A TEST SPOT FIRST
And don't forget, all paint is different, even on the same car. So what works on one part might not work on another

[Tim Lingor]

Re: Rotary or DA

Well M105 is designed for a rotary
That paint needs some deep paint removal in some parts,
I would use the M105 a wool pad and a rotary on that scratch, but that's me, I have a more experience than you.
Meg's says "use the least aggressive action first". So go the general route first and ALWAYS DO A TEST SPOT FIRST
And don't forget, all paint is different, even on the same car. So what works on one part might not work on another

Really??? The new M105 is DA compatible as well as with the rotary and by hand.

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28363

So you would use a rotary, a wool pad with a very aggressive compound like M105 on a "light scratch" than can not be felt with a finger nail on paint from a 1998 Toyota? Why would you use something that aggressive!? The original poster worked in a detail shop for 3 years, so what is your experience?

I also think you meant the "A.R." rather than the genital route! Sigmund Freud would have had a field day with that one! Eowwww!

To the original poster, do a test spot first. First try something less aggressive like M80 or M205 on a polishing pad and a DA set to speed 5 and see how that works. If that does not do it, move up to M83 on a polishing pad and the DA at speed 5. If after 2-3 passes the marring, water spots etc are still there, then you could move up to M105 and a polishing pad. Now if you have the old M105, it will still work with the DA though not recommended by Meguiar's, but it will dust a lot more. The new M105 will work just fine with the DA and a polishing pad. After the M105, follow it with M205 and a polishing and/or finishing pad depending on how the paint finishes out.

For the scratch or deeper marring, I would suggest using either a couple of passes with M105 and the DA, UC by hand using terry cloth toweling for more bite or M83 with the rotary and a polishing pad. There is absolutely no reason to start off with a rotary, a wool pad and M105 as that may remove WAY more paint than needed for what appears to be moderate marring and general neglect. Toyota paint is usually very workable, so again, no need to go aggressive unless needed.

Moreover going too aggressive on older paint may lead to burn through as you have no idea how much paint is really there after all of these years.

Tim