I am using 105 with my rotary at about 1800rpm with a yellow wool pad....I am having a very hard time taking out the deeper swirls. Should I be pressing on the rotary or should I continue to do more passes with the weight of the machine as the only source of pressure?
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M105 & rotary
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Re: M105 & rotary
As I said on the other thread:
I believe so, light to moderate.
Hopefully someone will chime in who has used it on the rotary.Joel
Firefighter/EMT-B
Rejuvenation Auto Detailing
"Satisfaction Guaranteed or Your Dirt Back!!!"
'99 F-150
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Re: M105 & rotary
For removing more serious defects start out with medium pressure, (as compared to really pushing down harder or just the weight of the buffer), for your first few passes.
Be sure you don't heat the paint up so that you can never place the palm of your hand onto the surface you're buffing without having your Flight or Fight reflex kick in and you quickly jerk your hand away.
What are you working on?
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Re: M105 & rotary
Noticed you're in SoCal,
While we don't go into the rotary buffer in our Car Care 101 Class myself or any Instructor here would be happy to take a look at your paint and your technique and offer some suggestions...
We do use the rotary during our casual Thursday Night classes.
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2009 Saturday Class Schedule Thursday Night "Open Classes" for 2009
2009 Thursday Night "Open Garage" ScheduleMarch
March 19th - First Thursday Night "Open Garage" - Click here to sign-up
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Re: M105 & rotary
Originally posted by blueap2 View Postim working on my s2000....dont worry, it is not the factory paint. i got a paint job so the clear is evidently harder than the stock honda clear....if that doesn't work do you think i should try the burgandy wool pad?
Check this thread out,
Order of Aggressiveness - Cutting Pads
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Re: M105 & rotary
Originally posted by blueap2 View Postwould m205 be a good follow-up for the m105?
And just FYI, I've never used M105 at 1800rpms. It always seems to work better for me when I slow it down a bit. I'm usually around the 1000-1200rpm mark. When you slow the speed down, you can slow your hand movement down also.
Nick2008 Meguiar's Batmobile Team
2008 Meguiar's/Ford SEMA Team
2009 Meguiar's/Ford SEMA Team
2010 Meguiar's/Ford SEMA Team
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Re: M105 & rotary
Solo red wool pad(WWHC7) is easier to use(IMO).
Or just grab some 2k grit sand paper and knock out those deeper scratches, then buff with the foam.
Either way will lead to a beautiful end result2008 Meguiar's Batmobile Team
2008 Meguiar's/Ford SEMA Team
2009 Meguiar's/Ford SEMA Team
2010 Meguiar's/Ford SEMA Team
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Re: M105 & rotary
Originally posted by Nick Chapman View PostSolo red wool pad(WWHC7) is easier to use(IMO).
Or just grab some 2k grit sand paper and knock out those deeper scratches, then buff with the foam.
Either way will lead to a beautiful end result
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Re: M105 & rotary
Originally posted by blueap2 View Postim working on my s2000....
dont worry, it is not the factory paint. i got a paint job so the clear is evidently harder than the stock honda clear....
Originally posted by Nick Chapman View Post
Or just grab some 2k grit sand paper and knock out those deeper scratches, then buff with the foam.
If this car is important to you along with the paint, and you've never sanded and buffed a paint job before, then it's usually not a good idea to learn on something that's important to you.
Hold old is the re-paint?
If it's older than 30 days then it's very likely it's reached maximum cure which means it's reached maximum hardness. So waiting until our first Thursday Night Open Garage Class is a safe idea and we'll take a look at the paint and help you dial in a process that will remove your scratches [if possible], while leaving the most paint on the car.
You can also sign-up for the next Saturday class and either come early or stay late and we'll take a look at it then, at least we'll throw that out there and you can decide.
If you do decide to take Nick's advice and start sanding down your car's paint, please only do a test spot, or small section and make sure you can successfully sand and buff one small section without any tracers left in the paint before sanding a large section let alone the entire car.
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Re: M105 & rotary
Originally posted by Nick Chapman View PostAbsolutely!
And just FYI, I've never used M105 at 1800rpms. It always seems to work better for me when I slow it down a bit. I'm usually around the 1000-1200rpm mark. When you slow the speed down, you can slow your hand movement down also.
Nick
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