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1. Washing
Use 2-bucket system and grit-guard, lamb wool mitt, GC Washing Solution… Then use one bucket with clean water for cleaning other bucket for soap both with a grit-guard in it. First rinse the entire car with water and work in shade, start at top part of vehicle and use the mitt (dip is soap solution) to gently scrub away dirt, dust and other contaminates (from top to bottom). Then dip mitt into clean water and scrub against the grit guard to loose bonded materials and then re-dip into the soap solution and continue to a lower panel tell complete. Now the washing part is done and you’re ready for the drying part of the process. I use Chamois to get most of the water off the car and then use the Meguiar's Water Magnet Drying Towels to get the rest of the water off the car. Go get some Windex and a dedicated Meguiar’s Supreme Shine Microfiber Towels microfiber towel for windows only get the windows and mirrors…by this time you will notice some dripping from the mirror’s onto the panels go for a quick spin around the block and then re-dry it with a Meg.’s SS MF towel this should make the car completely dry and beautiful. While you are driving make sure to hit the brake a couple times to get the nasty looking rust off your rotors. Step 2 and above will get the car to become even better looking then before.
2. Cleaning or Surface Prep
Meguiar’s has created a kit for this specific step all you need is a “Smooth Surface Clay Kit” which I purchased and was amazed by what it can do. This step is called clay baring and it’s fairly easy. The kit comes with a Quick Detailer, 2 Clay bars, and a Supreme Shine MF towel. Now roll the bar into a ball and flatten it into a pancake/waffle shape patty and place it on right between your palm and your fingertips this is the ideal place to put the bar for even pressure. Now on the clean surface spray some quick detailer on a small portion of a panel and on the bar, now rub the bar to the panel and make sure the surface is well lubricated (enough for into to slide onto of the surface) and wipe it down with the clean SS mf towel to a shine. Now look at all the bonded contaminants the clay bar took out of your car after you have washed it…I know it’s a lot now for the dirty clay bar in itself tell it is clean again. Now shape it into a patty and continue for entire vehicle if you want and go ahead and feel the surface of the car its really smooth. Now your car is completely clean and ready to be polished and removal of swirls and scratches. Oh yea if you drop the clay bar throw it away and get a new one.
3. Polishing
Preparation
It is recommended that you tape off all textured plastic trims such as the vents door handles and other things you do not want to apply the wax to. Also it’s a good idea to put a beach towel (this tip got from Mike at the class) to cover the vipers and under part of hood. Open hood and place towel onto the windshield from the opening right under the hood and keep some of it in the inside then close the hood and wrap the towel over the wipers. Now you have no risk of putting products onto places your do not want them to be.
Polishing
Now get your DA (G110)/Orbiter out for some polishing put on a polishing pad and use. If you do not have a DA then just use hand like the old fashion way to polish and wax instead of the DA polisher. Now apply a circle of your product (ex. M80, M83, M205) onto the surface of the pad and make sure it is not on the center but on half of the radius of the pad thus your avoid the chance of splattering being in the middle. When first approaching a car, always start with one of the lightest polish and pad combination that you have. This will remove only a small amount of clear coat, but may be enough if you have soft paint or only light swirls. If the scratch is too deep and the clear is thin then using a product with fillers gives another option in these situations – the defects are not removed, but instead they are masked by using fillers. They are little particle that cover the surface to hind the scratch but the down side is that they all come off and thus the scratch is visible again. So in general you have to options to polish and cut the clear coat until flat or just use fill and temporarily hide and cover up the scratch from your eyes.
Now that you have the product on the G110 spread it onto the surface of your panel with the DA off so it’s just like using a pad by hand now that the polish is spread turn on and go slowly in a up and down motion and then side to side and then diagonally covering 50% of the pervious pass and then work in the polish. After the polish has been spread and massaged into your clear coat you can simply wipe it of using the SS mf towels…make sure that the polish does not completely dry because it will make it that much more harder to take off when dry it should be damp when removing. Examine the surface…is all the scratches gone…if not then reapply re-do the steps and if you are not getting any improvements then move onto a more aggressive compound until satisfied. If there is an isolated area that has more scratches then you can use a more aggressive polish specifically for that area. Alright now you are done with the polishing step doesn’t your car look beautiful…
Step-4 Protecting
Now switch pads to a new clean pad dedicated to waxing. In this step we make barrier to protect the clear coat. There are two choices in this step, which is using a wax or a sealant. The difference between them is that a wax contains natural ingredients and a sealant is synthetically made. People sometimes prefer one over the other and some use one coat and others use two or three. People with multiple waxes use different waxes to attain a certain goal such as one for more protection and other for shine although there is not much difference between the waxes. Just apply to pad the same way to I explained before but instead of polish put wax on it and spread it on the surface with it off and then turn on and just work the product in but with waxes you have to let it cure and if you want multiple layers of waxes then you need to make sure the waxes fully cures to get the full benefit of the layers waxes because if you do not cure the wax all you are doing is moving it around but if you let it cure then you are build a layer on top of a lay of wax. When apply a layer you will see a light haze appear (whiteness) and when it is ready use your microfiber towel to clean it off let it cure for awhile and your done.
Step-5 Maintaining
This step is the easiest and it is basically maintaining this beautiful look longer. If there is light dust then you can use a quick detailer and if there is a lot of dust then just do a quick wash and dry without much scrubbing or soap and use the Quick Detailer to just enhance the efficiency of the wax and prolong the beautiful shine. Quick Detailer is a easy mist and wipe product use good clean towels.
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