#83 Problems

[Iano]

Today was my first experience with #83 and the PC. It wasn't entirely pleasant... I started on the hood at around speed 3.5 and covered about 1/4th of it. By time I switched out to my ultimate pad, about 60% of the #83 wouldn't come off! My guess is that isntead of working the product in I allowed it to dry on top the surface?

After 30 min of having to rub #83 off with a microfiber towel (The PC Bonnet wouldn't do anything for me at this point, which is odd because isn't it supposed to be more effective than removal by hand?)

My next approach was to go a little faster at 4 and try and work the product in some. This was definitely better as far as the bonnet removal went, but I was concerned because the surface of the paint did not feel smooth, but almost felt dulled. At this point I decided to stop and try some NXT on the hood to get the feel of using the PC for that.

I stopped for the day to examine some of the areas and post here for opinions. It seems that on the door while it did get rid of clearcoat scratches, the surface seemed to dull with almost a scouring appearance. Is this how the DACP is supposed to work? And then NXT to restore shine? Or am I doing something severely wrong. I was applying a little bit of pressure to work the DACP in, but I didn't have much of a technique down for the movement of the PC on the surface / overlapping / etc. Opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[travisdecpn]

Did you clay first? I found that the best way to use #83 is to use about 3 drops on the pad and work it until it completely disappears. If it's too hot the product will dry too fast so make sure the surface is cool to the touch.

[Marc08EX]

Iano, your experience really reminded me of how my first time with the DACP and the PC went.. I think that the product dried already.. Next time you work on it, try to work the DACP with the PC set on 5. Remeber to move your arm slooowwwww.. Really slow and work a small section at a time.. jfelbab adviced me to have a 2'x2' section at least 3-5 minutes and Mike Phillips recommends overlapping each stroke by 50%. What I do is start moving the PC horizontally. After, I do the area again moving the PC vertically... There should only be a thin layer of residue remaining at this point and remove it immediately.. If it can't be removed, try using a Quick Detailer or similar product to help you remove it.

I think that the DACP leaves a little bit of haziness after it. Usually, members follow it up with a #82 Swirl Free Polish or #80 Speed Glaze which has less aggressiveness in comparison to #83.. Then you can also follow it up by a pure polish such as the #7 Show Car Glaze or the #81 Hand-Polish. Then use your NXT as a LSP.

Hope this helps and post pics when you're done! Good luck!

[Iano]

Sounds good, thanks for the advice. I think I'll re-wash and just do some NXT today until I get some of those other products and more pads / bonnets ordered. Then we'll try another #83 day.

[the newbie]

looks like the dacp works different on every kind of paint.
i used it on the black seat leon,without a single problem,and it was perfect,i could wax it after dacp immediatly,but on the toyota i experienced some problems,working with dacp.
i had the idea that the hood warmed up very fast,and maybe that caused a problem,but i got it perfectly flawless,with a little more work,and some good old elbow grease.
i do clay allways,before using dacp,

ciao,

Rick

[6318]

Did you clay first? I found that the best way to use #83 is to use about 3 drops on the pad and work it until it completely disappears.

3 drops of clay?

[Tim Lingor]

Hey,

The problem you experienced sounds like you did not work the product long enough. With the PC set to 5, it may take as long as 3-5 minutes for a 2'x2' panel in order for the product to break down. You must work the product until only a slight dust/residue remains. This residue should wipe off VERY easily.

As for the finish, the results are directly related to the buffing duration. As #83 breaks down, its diminishing abrasives get smaller and smaller. If it is removed too soon, you may get a haze in the finish.

Finally, I would suggest (especially for darker colors) following the #83 with either #82 Swirl Free Polish or #80 Speed Glaze.

I hope this helps!

Tim

[Mike Phillips]

Re: #83 Problems

Originally posted by Iano
After 30 min of having to rub #83 off with a microfiber towel (The PC Bonnet wouldn't do anything for me at this point, which is odd because isn't it supposed to be more effective than removal by hand?)

The Ultimate Bonnet is primarily used for removing pure polishes and waxes, I have never personally used a bonnet to remove a compound, paint cleaner or cleaner/polish, for this I will use either a terry cloth towel or a microfiber polishing cloth.

I stopped for the day to examine some of the areas and post here for opinions. It seems that on the door while it did get rid of clearcoat scratches, the surface seemed to dull with almost a scouring appearance. Is this how the DACP is supposed to work? And then NXT to restore shine? Or am I doing something severely wrong. I was applying a little bit of pressure to work the DACP in, but I didn't have much of a technique down for the movement of the PC on the surface / overlapping / etc. Opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

#83 DACP is usually very effective at removing defects with the rotary buffer and the PC, depending on the hardness of your car's finish and you're technique, you may have to follow the #83 DACP with a second polishing step using a less aggressive polish. For this #80 Speed Glaze with a dedicated W-8006 foam polishing pad works really well. After that start to apply your wax.


Applying #83 Dual Action Cleaner/Polish with the G-100

• Speed Setting - 4.0 to 5.0
• Arm Speed - Slow Arm Speed
• Pressure - 3-5 pounds of pressure
• Work Area - Work a small area at a time, about 1 to 2 feet square
• Overlapping motions - Overlap each pass by 50%, move the polisher using different patterns
• Time - Work the product until the diminishing abrasives have broken down, but you haven't gone completely to a dry buff.
• Amount of product - Don't overuse product, use enough to lay down a film in the area you are working

Applying #80 Speed Glaze with the G-100

• Speed Setting - 4.0 to 5.0
• Arm Speed - Medium Arm Speed
• Pressure - 3-5 pounds of pressure
• Work Area - You can work a larger area than what you do with the #83 DACP
• Time - Work the product until the diminishing abrasives have broken down, but you haven't gone completely to a dry buff.
• Amount of product - Don't overuse product, use enough to lay down a film in the area you are working. Speed Glaze is rich in polishing oils a little bit goes a long ways

Applying NXT Tech Wax with the G-100

• Speed Setting - 3.0 to 4.0
• Arm Speed - Medium Arm Speed
• Pressure - Light pressure - More than the weight of the machine, you want to engage the foam pad with the surface, not just float over it
• Work Area - You can work panel by panel, for example, apply to one half of the hood, then walk to the other side of the car and apply to the other half of the hood. Apply to fender all at once, door, deck lid, etc.
• Time - Work the product long enough to make two passes over the finish then move on
• Amount of product - Don't overuse product, use enough to lay down a film in the area you are working

Removing Polish or Wax with an Ultimate Bonnet on the G-100

• Speed Setting - 4.0 to 5.0
• Arm Speed - Medium Arm Speed
• Pressure - 3-5 pounds of pressure
• Work Area - You can work panel by panel, for example, apply to one half of the hood, then walk to the other side of the car and apply to the other half of the hood. Apply to fender all at once, door, deck lid, etc.
• Time - Work the area until the bonnet has removed the wax

Hope this helps...

Mike

[Don]

Re: #83 Problems

Originally posted by Iano
... I started on the hood at around speed 3.5 and covered about 1/4th of it. By time I switched out to my ultimate pad, about 60% of the #83 wouldn't come off! My guess is that isntead of working the product in I allowed it to dry on top the surface?

There's the problem, you had the PC set WAYYY too slow. DACP needs to be worked in at a higher speed. I always have the PC set between 5 and 6 when using it. Plus you might try using less product, too much will coat the paint with a gluey tough mess that's like armor.