Does this sound like a good process to remove swirls????

[dedonderosa]

ok heres the process i was going to use to remove some swirls on my 1997 milano red integra GSR and on my rio yellow s2000

wash
clay
Scratch X w/W8207 pad with g110 (or should i use something different to remove the swirls???)
#7 polish w/9207 pad with g110 (or should i use with w8207 pad) the pad and product recmd. says to use the finishing pad w/ #7
nxt 2.0 w 9207 pad with g110

my question is when using the #7 polish how should i apply it with g110? using speed 3-4? and how long to keep it on the paint. only do a few passes and wipe off???? or work it into the pain for a min or two. then wipe off... lmk thanks guys

[Markus Kleis]

Re: Does this sound like a good process to remove swirls????

Odds are if you are working with the G110 you will need a more aggressive step before the ScratchX.

In the past that would have been M83, followed by M80. Starting very soon here M105 and M205 via G110 will be your meal ticket for aggressive, yet safe defect removal.

As for the #7, just realize that is a pure polish with no abrasives. It will not remove damage, only enrich the paint's oils and add gloss. With #7 you do NOT want the product to dry or haze, simply move it around the paint, 1-2 quick passes, and then immediately wipe it off.

Speed 3 will work for the #7 and wax. Speed 4-5 for the defect removal steps.

[dedonderosa]

Re: Does this sound like a good process to remove swirls????

i thought scratch x was good for removing swirls though???
i just wan to use something safe and have no issues though
this is for soft honda paint what do u think i should use?
in what order is most aggressive to leaset out of these 3 m83,m80, m105???

[Markus Kleis]

Re: Does this sound like a good process to remove swirls????

ScratchX is good at removing light defects. Some swirls will fall into that category, some will not. But, for ScratchX most find the best results from working by hand on removing deeper defects because you can apply significantly more pressure than with a DA.

Start with ScratchX and go from there.

As for order of aggressiveness, currently: M105, M83, M80, ScratchX- (out of the products you asked about).

[akimel]

Re: Does this sound like a good process to remove swirls????

Least aggressive to most aggressive:

ScratchX - M80 - M83 - M105

As Mike P explained in your earlier thread, you will need to do a test spot and find out for yourself which product will accomplish your purposes. You are right to begin with the least aggressive product and work up until you find the one that works for you.

I know you are nervous about damaging the paint, but I think you will discover that the 80/83 combo will work real well for you. If you have any problems with them, just report back to the forum and the pros will help you find the solution.

If I may be so bold, may I suggest that for the moment you not worry about #7. #80 is rich with the same "trade secret oils" that make up #7. Once you get comfortable getting results with 80/83, then you can add a pure polish into your routine. You are going to be very pleased with how your car looks once you get the hang of the D/A.

Good luck!

Cheers,
Al

[dedonderosa]

Re: Does this sound like a good process to remove swirls????

well with the milano red its a tri-coat and and im worried about using m83 and m80 with marring the paint... also i know its gonna pick up a lil of the tinited clear. i just dont wanna mess it up. The car i in beautiful shape shines real good looks nice but under flourescent lighting you can see it does have swirls and some light oxidation on the spoiler. and im worried about hazing....
when u used it how did u use the m83 and m80? like how long and speed were u using it. thanks

[akimel]

Re: Does this sound like a good process to remove swirls????

Dedonderosa, if you haven't already purchased it, I recommend you get this DVD:

How to Use the PC for Showcar Results

It will answer, in a visual way, many of your questions.

At some point, though, you are just going to have to jump into the water and start swimming. There are plenty of experts here who are ready to help you if you encounter any problems; and any problem you encounter--and most likely you will not encounter any--can be easily corrected. Remember, you are working with a safe machine with well-tested products. On various forums I have read M80 described as an excellent polish for beginners. One well-respected detailer at Autopia even said it was "idiot-proof," which I found very encouraging.

I too have a Honda car--and mine is black! I do more damage to my paint simply by washing it than I could ever do with the D/A! Don't be afraid. Follow all the good counsel and instruction you have already received here on MOL and try out a test-spot. Begin with Scratch-X and see what happens. If you get the results you want, then you're set. If not, try M80 and see how that works. Once you do your first test-spot and discover that your car has "survived," you will then be eager to buff out your entire car ... and will probably start asking your friends if you can buff theirs, too.


Al

[dedonderosa]

Re: Does this sound like a good process to remove swirls????

thank you for your help everyone i guess i'll just have to jump in the water and see what happens... as soon as i get some time and decent weather i give it a go and report back here thanks again

[J. A. Michaels]

Re: Does this sound like a good process to remove swirls????

Your concerns are exactly why a test spot is so important. Try a test spot with the the G110 and the scratch-x. If the results are not what you expected. Do another test spot with the G110 and #80. This way if there is some marring of the paint, you are not going to have to redo the whole vehicle. Good luck.

[dedonderosa]

Re: Does this sound like a good process to remove swirls????

OK that sounds like a good plan to me.

buy my question is when using m80 or m83 how long and speed does it usually need to be worked into the paint??

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Does this sound like a good process to remove swirls????

thank you for your help everyone i guess i'll just have to jump in the water and see what happens...

Your concerns are exactly why a test spot is so important. Try a test spot with the the G110 and the scratch-x.

Meguiar's teaches,

"Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"

The reason for this is common sense. By using the least aggressive product that will get the job done you'll have removed the defects to your satisfaction while leaving the most paint on the car.

Thing is you won't know what you can do until you push away from the keyboard and go out into your garage and start working on your car or start doing a test spot and start using the least aggressive product for your test spot. Then after testing the first product wipe off the residue and inspect the results in two kinds of light.

Sometimes, if you don't get the results you looking for with the first application of a product before going to a more aggressive product maybe just try a second test with the same product.

When you first start out in most cases you buffing pad or hand applicator pad is new or clean and dry and it's going to absorb some of the product you're applying thus less product on the surface working for you. So after breaking in your buffing pad or applicator pad if you see an improvement with your test spot before instantly moving to the next aggressive product if you're concerned with removing too much paint then maybe do a second application to the same spot using the same product and then check these results.

Move slower than fast when testing and first starting out.