Removing #7

[buddy89]

How is everyone??

I dont know wether it is just me, but i find #7 a little hard to remove??
Does anyone else have this problem, Or am i doing something wrong??

Cheers

[sdprius858]

Re: Removing #7

Are you letting it dry on the paint like you would a wax?

7 is meant to me applied then wiped off immediately without letting it set or haze.

[Markus Kleis]

Re: Removing #7

Are you letting it dry on the paint like you would a wax?

7 is meant to me applied then wiped off immediately without letting it set or haze.

Bingo

[J. A. Michaels]

Re: Removing #7

Do a section at a time. Apply, remove. Next section. Should not be difficult to remove at all.

[angeloabbattista]

Re: Removing #7

Are you letting it dry on the paint like you would a wax?

7 is meant to me applied then wiped off immediately without letting it set or haze.

No problems with #7 here, you just have to follow as above.

[yalerd]

Re: Removing #7

When working M07 work on small section at a time, apply and work the product against the paint and remove when still wet.

Like said above, don't let it sit and don't try to work an entire panel at once.

When removing, with a microfiber towel, on one side of the towel try to remove with one pass (gentle) as much product as you can and then flip the towel and start removing the residue of the product, very gentle, and you'll see the results will be amazing!

[akimel]

Re: Removing #7

Five years ago Mike Phillips wrote an article at Autopia on M07. Here is his wise counsel on how to remove it:

Removing #7 requires a special technique, not the same kind of technique you remove a wax with.

Most people remove their wax like this. Start in one area, begin wiping until all of the wax is removed in that area and then move on to virgin territory.

This will not work for #7. The "Act" of removing #7, tends to "Re-liquefy" the product, basically creating the smearing around effect that you experience when you apply it.

Instead, "Break" or "Disrupt" the "Continuous" layer of film-build and then move on to a virgin area and "Break this film-build up.

You see, #7 doesn't actually dry, but… it will "Skin", somewhat like homemade pudding.

This "Skin" is easier to break up and remove then the more liquid film is.

By breaking up the continuos film-build and then moving on, you are exposing a fresh layer of the film to the air where it will skin. The next time you come around, it will be easier to break up and remove.

So the idea is to apply a thin coat to the entire car.

Then, Go around the car two to three times, removing a little bit at a time.

A big soft, high quality, 100% cotton, terry cloth towel works best for the first two passes, and then switch over to a Microfiber polishing cloth for the last pass. Microfiber polishing cloths have an affinity for both water and oil based liquids and will remove oily residues much better with less fiber inflicted scratches.

Anyway, that’s what my experience has taught me after applying and removing gallons of #7 over the years, to every kind of car with every known type of paint.

http://www.autopia.org/forum/detaili...-phillips.html

[Rick McDonough]

Re: Removing #7

Humidity probably isn’t a factor for most at this time of year, but #7 Show Car Glaze can become more challenging (more difficult to remove) in humidity as well.

[Stevenredx]

Re: Removing #7

I had troubles removing it the first couple of times i used it and i dropped down the size of my work area and product used and it made it a little easier. There's defiantly seems to be a learning curve to applying/removing it properly, or at-least there was for me. Maybe try using different amounts and different size areas to see if that helps you.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Removing #7

Apply a thin amount, more product doesn't add any benefit, the goal is to introduce the polishing oils to the surface, work them in and then wipe the residue off and move on to a new section.

Most people that have hard time with #7 are,

Using too much
Letting the product dry

Besides those to major mistakes, there are these,

Working to large of an area at one time
Using #7 on the wrong condition paint - paint should be in good to excellent condition, smooth and clean

This product has been around since probably the 1920's or even earlier in some version, so generations of satisfied customers knew how to use before the Internet was created and that was by applying a thin amount, working it in and over the paint and then wiping it off.


Wiping technique is also important as is a high quality wiping cloth.

[buddy89]

Re: Removing #7

Hey,

Thanks to every one for there input, It maybe as most of you have suggested, working on a larger section then i should, dries before i get to wipe it off.. When i go to wipe it off, my microfibre cloth seems to "GRIP"... Is imagine that would be a classic tell tale sign wouldn't it?? Apart from the removal of the product, it is an awsome product, unbelivable shine!!

Thanks again..

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Removing #7

A large nap cotton towel actually works better for removing an oily product like M07 but the trade-off is cotton towels are not as gentle to the paint as a quality microfiber polishing cloth.

Keep your application thin and work a small section at a time and this will help to make M07 easier to remove with microfiber.

[hondamtrco4life]

Re: Removing #7

Wiping technique is also important as is a high quality wiping cloth.

Everyone that has seen the Meguiars G110 instructional DVD know the importance behind this statement. I believe the biggest mistake people make when using M07 is their "wiping off" technique. They try to buff rapidly until their arm falls off. Slow down your buffing movement, giving the excess product time to attach to the micro fiber cloth. Also Mike states you don't have to get it all in the first pass. Sometimes you need to go twice around the car and that's fine. Apply the "right" amount, don't let it dry, when buffing slow your arm speed down, and making two or three passes is normal. Follow those steps and you should be good.