Best product?

[Buhundred]

So my problem is that my dads 4runner has very oxidized paint. Has never been parked in garage and the only time it was parked indoors was when it was a showroom display vehicle 12 years ago. Never been clayed, rarely waxed, and gets washed literally every 2 years or more. I was thinking of washing with gold class, the clay kit, and using DC1 to take care of the oxidation ( mostly on roof and hood) and then some #7 and then nxt 2.0. Would this be a good combo?

[gsxr310]

Re: Best product?

are you goin to be doin this project all by hand?

[Buhundred]

Re: Best product?

everything by hand

[gsxr310]

Re: Best product?

this will be alot of work by hand. have you considered purchasing a da polisher?

[Buhundred]

Re: Best product?

I really do want one but I don't have the cash

[g88]

Re: Best product?

Set yourself a budget than we talk

[BigLouie]

Re: Best product?

You can do all of this by hand, and you will see a vast improvement over what you currently see. The process you described at the start of the thread will work well.

[gsxr310]

Re: Best product?

I really do want one but I don't have the cash

no worries! those products you listed will definately make a difference. try and take some before and after pics if you can. also, try not to work w/ too big of a surface. if you get tired, rest and continue the job the next day or weekend. being too tired will force you to hurry up to finish the vehicle and you will not get good results. good luck!

[Murr1525]

Re: Best product?

I would look at:

1. Wash
2. Clay - Be sure to buy extra QD
3. #105
4. Polish - #7 is top of the line
5. Wax - Nxt 2.0, remember two thin coats.

[Lexus Guy04]

Re: Best product?

I would look at:

1. Wash
2. Clay - Be sure to buy extra QD
3. #105
4. Polish - #7 is top of the line
5. Wax - Nxt 2.0, remember two thin coats.

x2

[roushstage2]

Re: Best product?

I don't know about 105 on older oxidized paint. Seems a bit overkill to me...

When I de-oxidized my truck, I washed with a car soap and a bug scrubber to help scrub a bit of oxidation off. Rewashed with a regular mitt. Dried. I personally didn't clay as the paint didn't seem to need it. If your paint is pretty oxidized and this is your first time "correcting" this kind of paint, claying will definitely help.

Here is where you have some options...
DC1 will probably work just fine, but if you are working by hand, I'd go with a bit better product. I would try something like M80 by hand as it is a stronger and better cleaner and it has polishing oils in it. I would stock up on a handful of terry applicator pads and towels. Work in one application with a terry pad, then remove with a terry towel. The terry cloth works really well on single stage paint because the nap in it helps pick up and remove all of the dead, oxidized paint and the cleaner. If you get a decent quality terry product (something like the Viking products you can find all over at parts stores), single stage paint doesn't really seem to be affected by it even though it is a bit more aggressive than foam. I say stock up on a bunch of applicator pads because they will "fill" up with paint and product rather quickly. I use a pad four times before switching. One half, turn it 180, then flip it to the other side and repeat. The towels, you just want to make sure you have enough clean towels to finish what you start. May pick up some disposable gloves too to keep your hands from turning a different color.

From here, the paint should be clean and shiny! Use a foam applicator pad to apply M07. Then after that, be sure to wax each panel after using M07 to seal in the polish and keep the paint shiny! Single stage paint will generally require a bit more care to stay clean and shiny. I always use a spray wax while drying and bi-monthly, use a cleaner wax to remove any light oxidation/swirls that have built up (that oxidation sneaks up on you!!!) and re-polish and re-protect at the same time.

[Murr1525]

Re: Best product?

We'll have to get a little more info....

I'm kind of going on the idea that it may be a clear coated vehicle, and may not even really be oxidation but just a lot of dirst and wear and tear and swirls and scratches.

Have to get a little follow up.

[J. A. Michaels]

Re: Best product?

Well I think that because it is so neglected. (read his first post) he should add the cleaner wax step. After claying, the paint will probably need a good cleaning, before the lsp.

We still need some more info, is it ss, or bc/cc.

[gjohn28]

Re: Best product?

I would look at:

1. Wash
2. Clay - Be sure to buy extra QD
3. #105
4. Polish - #7 is top of the line
5. Wax - Nxt 2.0, remember two thin coats.

It was also recommended to me in the case of light swirls/oxidation, to perhaps consider ColorX or #80 for steps 3 & 4.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Best product?

So my problem is that my dads 4runner has very oxidized paint.

Are you 100% sure it's a single stage paint and not a clear coat?

If so,

Wash
Clay
M80 Speed Glaze by hand using cotton terry cloth applicator pads or cut pieces out of a quality cotton towel.

Work the M80 to small sections at a time so you can really focus on working/massaging the paint, this will remove the dead paint and revive the color.

After you've cleaned and polished with M80 apply your favorite wax.

M80 = One of the best if not the best hand applied product for neglected, oxidized single stage paints.

M80 Speed Glaze did this,

http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19372