Mike Phillips..stop in here plz

[BLACK_MACH]

hi, i have read over at autopia and i get tons of different suggestions... dealer prep hacks scratched my brand new mach 1 which is black...my car was built in beginning of jan i used nxt end of feb....should paint cured longer there was mixed opinions at the other forum?? now for the scratches i have #7 i wanted to try weakest polish...can this work on fresh paint ? and becuase my paint is freshh is it most likley to go away faster?...should i try a diff polish?..i have regular yellow foam aplicators and autopia blue mf aplicators..which should i use?

should i just wash everything off and wait fore curing?....sorry but this is a brand new 30k car my 1st new car...and i'm heart broken over these scratches

[BLACK_MACH]

did i put NXT on to early

from reading over here..it seems paint curing is needed, autopia has different opinions...my car was built early jan...i put nxt on end of feb...should i wash this stuff off? its ford paint if that helps?

[wjfm1]

Usually the paint is cured at the factory. The curing before you wax usually refers to repainting or doing touchups.

[BLACK_MACH]

no pc, umm my girl can only feel 1 or 2 with nail....i have a pic of engine if you look at left top fender...that is the worste also the roof...the car was dirty i think they look worse in pic



do u think my ford paint cured enough before i put the nxt on??

[BLACK_MACH]

looks like the towel they used was real dirty...there not exactly in circles...the fender kinda just runs down straight like they wiped it

[wjfm1]

See my post in the NXT for your question.

[BLACK_MACH]

thx..i almost had a heart attack

[BLACK_MACH]

i will take good pics later in the day.....i think an expert could fix it...i dont trust any local hacks....i dont even use my warranty

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Mike Phillips..stop in here plz

Originally posted by BLACK_MACH
hi, i have read over at autopia and i get tons of different suggestions... dealer prep hacks scratched my brand new mach 1 which is black...my car was built in beginning of jan I used nxt end of feb....should paint cured longer there was mixed opinions at the other forum??

When you say built, do mean it literally rolled off the assembly line on January? Just want to make sure. If this is the factory paint job, then the paint was cured at the assembly line as it was baked in a high heat oven. So it would be perfectly safe to apply a wax to the finish in February.

now for the scratches i have #7 i wanted to try weakest polish...can this work on fresh paint ? and because my paint is fresh is it most likely to go away faster?...should i try a diff polish? ..I have regular yellow foam applicators and autopia blue mf applicators.. which should i use?

When you say fresh paint, was the car painted in January? Or was it brand new at the dealership?

I just want to make sure were talking about the same thing. Some people confuse a brand new car with having a brand new paint job. And yes, a brand new car does have a brand new paint job, it's already cured by the time the dealership takes possession of it.

Now if it's a brand new car that was recently repainted because it was damaged in transit, then we're talking about a brand new paint job that should first be allowed to fully cure before applying a coat of wax, or any type of paint sealant

should i just wash everything off and wait fore curing?....sorry but this is a brand new 30k car my 1st new car...and I’m heart broken over these scratches

Let's figure out whether were working on fresh paint, or cured paint and then progress to a solution.

Mike

[BLACK_MACH]

my car is brand new had 3.7 miles on it....the plastic protection was still on...they just cleaned top part ...i requested it off the truck!!!

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by BLACK_MACH
my car is brand new had 3.7 miles on it....the plastic protection was still on...they just cleaned top part ...i requested it off the truck!!!

Okay. Unless your car has been repaired somewhere between the assembly line and the dealership show room floor, I think it's safe to assume that wer'e working on cured paint

This means it's okay to apply a wax, or paint sealant.

Mike

[BLACK_MACH]

Originally posted by Mike Phillips
Okay. Unless your car has been repaired somewhere between the assembly line and the dealership show room floor, I think it's safe to assume that wer'e working on cured paint

This means it's okay to apply a wax, or paint sealant.

Mike

great, so on cured new paint how should i 1st try and tackle prep hack scratches? few passes with #7 if that dont work #9? then nxt...use foam or mf aplicator? i have the viking seamless mf's for removal

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Mike Phillips..stop in here plz

Originally posted by BLACK_MACH
dealer prep hacks scratched my brand new mach 1 which is black

Sorry to hear this. It's too bad dealerships, i.e. owners and manager don't read discussion forums, if they did, they would see that people are sharing their experiences with the online communities and more and more people are requesting that no prep work be done to thier car, not even washing when it's brought in for service. It's all about the swirls and scratches. Scratches are easy to put in, (just look at your car for an example), but difficult to get out without the proper tools, chemicals and technique.

now for the scratches i have #7 i wanted to try weakest polish...can this work on fresh paint ? and because my paint is fresh is it most likely to go away faster?...should i try a diff polish?.. I have regular yellow foam applicators and autopia blue mf applicators.. which should i use?

A couple of things,

1) #7 Show Car Glaze is a pure polish and will probably not remove any scratches in your finish. Unless this paint job is out of the ordinary, it will be a basecoat/clear coat finish. This means compared to traditional paints like lacquers and enamels, your car's finish is much harder, therefore removing scratches out of it will be more difficult. But, we can help you to do this.

2) Just so that everyone is on the same page, we are not working on fresh paint, in the sense that the term fresh paint usually refers to. In other words, paint that was applied at a body shop, or custom paint shop recently, as in the last 30/60/90 days. We are working on a new car, with factory paint. Yes the car is fresh as in brand spanking new, and the paint on the car is fresh as in brand spanking new, but the paint is cured, and not what we should refer to as fresh paint, i.e. un-cured paint.

As far as removing the scratches in your car's clear coat finish goes, chances are really good it will require a dual action polisher at a minimum, and depending on how deep they are, a rotary buffer. This is where a good picture would help out. Meguiar's ScratchX applied by hand with a foam applicator pad can remove fine scratches in a clear coat, and improve deeper scratches, so this may be an option.

should i just wash everything off and wait fore curing?....sorry but this is a brand new 30k car my 1st new car...and I’m heart broken over these scratches

There is no need to wash everything off. The only washing we need to be concerned with is washing the car before beginning any detailing work to insure that the surface is clean.

Mike

[BLACK_MACH]

ok..i'll have to take good pics i dont think there that deep...mostly noticable in my garage under flo lights..and evening sun...but if a rotary needs to be put on it...maybe i should get a lawyer and give it back...i thought some minor buffing would do it

[Mike Phillips]

Originally posted by BLACK_MACH
great, so on cured new paint how should i 1st try and tackle prep hack scratches? few passes with #7 if that don’t work #9? then nxt...use foam or mf applicator? I have the Viking seamless mf's for removal

Without seeing the defects, it's difficult to make specific recommendations. Another factor to consider is your skill level. Clear coat finishes are thin, delicate coatings that are easily scratched, and easily dulled. I'm not saying you cannot remove, or at a minimum improve the scratches in your brand new car, but were not talking about grabbing some product quickly rubbing it on and ta-da.... scratches are gone.

You need to work carefully.

Again, without seeing them, (where are you located?), it's hard to determine what will and what won't work.

The first thing you could try would be the #9 Swirl Remover using a soft, clean foam applicator pad. Best results with #9 come from machine application, either a rotary buffer or a dual action polisher. For light scuffs, mars, and scratches, you might be able to remove/improve them by hand with a foam applicator pad.

Emphasis on the word might

You will probably have better luck applying Meguiar's ScratchX.

If ScratchX by hand does not remove the scratches, then the next attempt to remove them will require either a Porter Cable Dual Action polisher, or a rotary buffer.

Do you own either of the above tools, or have access to them? Do you want to try the #9 or ScratchX first?

Let me know...

Mike