Sorting through the mythology

[Mad Scotsman]

Hey guys.

I'm sort of new to all of the great information here.

Like most men my age I've been washing and waxing my cars since I was a young boy, and over the years I've heard a lot of "gospel" on washing and waxing that is turning out to be just plain garbage.

I've recently purchased a brand new car that I'm trying to learn how to care for *properly*, and I'd like to know about a couple of the myths I've grown up with. I have a quick question too.

First... I've been told over and over (and even by the dealership) that you shouldn't wax or claybar a brand new car for the first year or perhaps even more. Yet I read on here where lots of guys are washing and waxing their 2008s. Which leads me to beleive that it's an old myth that has no basis in reality. Could anyone shed a little light on this for me?

Secondly... I noticed the VERY first time I washed and dried the new car that it had what appeard to be darkened 'water spots' under the clear coat. They vanish the minute the car is properly dried (mostly) but they are pretty obvious when it's wet? What exactly is that all about?

Thanks for you time.

AND your patience with newb questions.

Mac
The Mad Scotsman

[PorscheGuy997]

Re: Sorting through the mythology

Hey Mac,

It is perfectly safe to apply a protectant and use a clay bar on a new car.

Factory cars today come with paint that is back and fully cured. The confusion comes from resprays where the paint is no baked, but rather left to dry on it's own. Supposedly, the paint needs to outgas and a protectant prevents this from happening.

Clay bars are not applying anything to the paint. They strip away contaminants that have bonded to the paint while sitting in the dealer lot.

Do you mind posting a picture of the spots you are seeing? It would help a lot to see the defect.

[yalerd]

Re: Sorting through the mythology

First... I've been told over and over (and even by the dealership) that you shouldn't wax or claybar a brand new car for the first year or perhaps even more.

You can wax from the first day you receive your car, I've always done it because what better moment than taking good care of you car from the very first beginning! You can also clay bar, you won't have any type of problems just make sure you evaluate your finish and see if you have bonded contaminants, remember the car no matter how new it is travels and it's parked in the dealership lot 24/7 exposed to harsh contaminants so sometimes a new car has to be clay bared to get that nice smooth glossy finish.

Secondly... I noticed the VERY first time I washed and dried the new car that it had what appeard to be darkened 'water spots' under the clear coat. They vanish the minute the car is properly dried (mostly) but they are pretty obvious when it's wet? What exactly is that all about?

Like I said, because the car is exposed to contaminants in the dealership and if it rained nobody dried it only left will the sun/heat took care of it then you'll have this problem. Claying and using a paint cleaner should take care of the problem. Remember to follow with a high quality wax to protect that finish

[J. A. Michaels]

Re: Sorting through the mythology

I have clayed 08's without a problem. I personally have never heard of not claying for the first year. More often then not there is a lot of bonded contaminants that settle on the new vehicle in transport. I would clay your car. You can use the Smooth surface clay kit and buy yourself a extra bottle of quik detailer for the lube. I think you will notice a huge difference in the feel of your paint. Your paint will even shine more. You will have to apply a coat of wax when finished.

As for the water spots, i would see if this problem goes away with the claying. It does not seem from your description that these spots are permanant.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

[Mad Scotsman]

Re: Sorting through the mythology

Do you mind posting a picture of the spots you are seeing? It would help a lot to see the defect.

I am working toward this.

Complicating the effort is the fact that

a. I don't just **** as a photographer - I am THE ****.
b. The problem is most apparent when the surface is wet. As it dries it becomes harder to see.

I'm going at it with the macro-focus on my digital camera. I'll post them as soon as I can get one that accurately represents what I'm up against.

I've order the Deep Crystal steps ,the Paint Cleaner, the Polish and the Carnuba wax. In addition to Supreme Shine towels and a large Water Magnet and Meguiars wash and some NXT 2.0 liquid. I've also learned about the 2 bucket method.

My plan this weekend was to use the 2 bucket method, the DC Paint Cleaner, then NXT 2.0. I was hoping that the spots weren't an issue after that.

Mac
The Mad Scotsman

[Murr1525]

Re: Sorting through the mythology

Hopefully the spots arent baked in too bad.... Should be fixable, just might be a hassle to fix.

Also, try putting your finger on/above/near the spots, might help your camera focus.

[roushstage2]

Re: Sorting through the mythology

I have the same spot deal on my car. You can really only see them, when say, you are drying and the paint gets "moist" and the spots appear but immediately disappear again when the moisture goes away. Hard to describe.

[Mad Scotsman]

Re: Sorting through the mythology

You can really only see them, when say, you are drying and the paint gets "moist" and the spots appear but immediately disappear again when the moisture goes away. Hard to describe.

EXACTLY!

I'm going to try hard to get the photo. Photography isn't my thang. MACRO photography is even more not my thang.



Mac
The Mad Scotsman

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Sorting through the mythology

Water spots are either a defect on the surface, (This is an above surface defect that is usually removed with clay), and if it is it also will often times leave some kind of imprint in the surface, (Which is a below surface defect and removed by removing the paint around it), or they are a down and out etching in the paint which is a below surface defect only.

Above surface water spots are usually some kind of mineral deposit or some kind of dirt or airborne contaminant deposit. Meguiar's classifies these as Above Surface Defect which are removed by claying.

Below surface water spots or etchings are usually caused by some kind of corrosive liquid remains to long on the surface and actually eats or dissolves the paint to some level and leaves behind small voids without paint.

To remove any type of below surface defect you will need to remove paint surrounding the etching until the highest points on the surface are now level with the lowest points of the etchings.

Here's an article on this topic in our Hot Topics forum... even though the article talks about scratches, removing ANY below surface defect is done the same way...

What it means to remove a scratch out of anything...

Here's an article on removing water spots in our How To Articles forum...


How To Remove Water Spots off Automotive Paints

Type I Water Spots or Etchings


Type II Water Spots or Etchings



Sounds like you have Type II

[Lydia]

Re: Sorting through the mythology

I have the same spot deal on my car. You can really only see them, when say, you are drying and the paint gets "moist" and the spots appear but immediately disappear again when the moisture goes away. Hard to describe.

EXACTLY!

I'm going to try hard to get the photo. Photography isn't my thang. MACRO photography is even more not my thang.



Mac
The Mad Scotsman

I have the exact same thing on my truck (and I've noticed it on other vehicles). I've clayed and buffed my truck well and it still didn't seem to do anything for it. The only time I can see them is when the paint is just slightly wet so they don't bother me that much. I know exactly what you mean though.

[roushstage2]

Re: Sorting through the mythology

Yeah, I can't get rid of them either. Stupid things...lol