83 vs cleaner and polish

[jezroj]

Instead of using a cleaner and then a polish, is using 83 a shortcut I will regret?

[Nappers]

Re: 83 vs cleaner and polish

Watcha working on?

The best is to start the least aggressive, have a test panel(I tend to use the "more abused areas" such as the hood) and dial your process in. One of my cars I needed a paint cleaner then used 83 then 80 or 09. I started with 80, then 83 then 2 as the clear coat was hard as nails.

Let us know what your working on and what you have, hand? PC? Rotary?, Pads? etc.

[jezroj]

Re: 83 vs cleaner and polish

I am working on a car that is about 4 years old and has been kept up fairly well. I started using some 83 just because I had it, I then started to wonder if using the consumer line cleaner + Polish + Wax was better or if the combination products such as 83 (cleaner/polish) or other products sucha as cleaner/wax worked just as good as the three step process.

[Nappers]

Re: 83 vs cleaner and polish

83 is a dual action cleaner polish (not to be confused for the Dual Action machines). Therefore, it cuts the paint with their diminishing abrasives, then the polishing oils brings the paint to it's luster. M80 (which is less aggressive and very popular) has the more of these oils in their product and a favorite combo for a long time has been 83 followed by 80 or start with 80, if more aggressivness is needed, go with 83. And...do this on a test spot, I would hate to do a whole car and not like the results then go back to square one. If the 83 is working and you like the outcome then it's all good. I would definately get some M80 as well, it's less aggressive than 83.

The 3 step Deep Crystal I think was aimed at the normal consumer which is readily available through most through discount stores. Also, most consumers apply by hand or use the off the shelf orbitals. These don't have much power and they wont go out and destroy their paint with a orbital and the Deep Crystal series, actually hard to wreck your paint unless you really tried, the PC is bubba proof (I said that so Kevin Brown doesn't flame me LOL, hard to burn your paint with a PC, unless like he said, soak the pad in lighter fluid and set it on fire as your polishing)

The Mirror Glaze line is designed for high capacity shops and although available to us consumers, not typically available as much as the A line. I own and have used the 3 step (except the wax). Actually when I do my Yukon, I use the step 1 as my least aggressive then work my way up. My Neon I need to glue diamonds to a 7006 pad and throw a handful of sand in 84 compound to get the swirls out (I have used M02 with a PC on it as it's tough). The Mirror Glaze line is availible in Gallons and the Detailer Line available in 55 gallon drums depending on product. Can't find the A-line in gallon sizes, the typical consumer just wont use that much, I know I didn't when I was the "regular consumer".

Cleaner Waxes are very mild, the A-Line (deep red bottle) is very mild working on up to ColorX followed by Mirror Glaze #66 and the brand new Detailer Line D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream seems to be the most aggressive actually coming close to M83 in threads I've read. I used ColorX in the past and it didn't touch the swirls on the Neon, I haven't use it on the Yukon so can't comment. I've used the D151 PRC on the metal trim but found it to be too aggresive on the metal trim on a GM SUV. There are some great write ups on the new PRC by Tim Lingor. Good stuff, I would just follow up with a coat or two of your favorite wax.

To answer your question?

Yes, the Mirror Glaze line may prove better with it's arsenal of products to choose, does the A-Line work? you bet it does and I use it too for light stuff like my In-Laws CRV which needs a good washing and waxing soon, they just bought it and I've read that Honda paints are typically soft, hence a test spot on all I do

Aaron