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I recently compounded and polished a black 2004 Cadillac CTS with the intention of removing all swirl marks and lighter rds. I followed the "least aggressive" philosophy and decided M105 was necessary for the cutting stage. Based upon other members experiences coupled with advice, I set about compounding with W5000 and M105. I put product on the paint, feathered the rotary trigger to spread it over areas approximately 1.5' x 1.5' large and began cutting at 1500 rpms for approximately 3-5 passes. Upon inspection with my Brinkmann, the finish showed typical signs of compounding (i.e., holograms and micro-swirls). I was under the impression this product finished down well in comparison to traditional compounds such as M85. If anyone can indicate what I may have been doing incorrectly or can offer advice regarding proper use of this product, it would be greatly appreciated. Additionally, I followed the M105 with M80 on a W8006 pad at 600 rpms with 1-2 passes to spread, 1500 rpms with 5-6 passes to polish, and 900 rpms at 2 passes to burnish; while it did remove the compound inflicted micro-marring and holograms, it left faint holograms of its own. I recompleted this process with the W9006 and the results were the same. Being that M80 is the least aggressive polish I own, I opted to use it with the PC and W8006 to polish the vehicle. I began by making 20 passes over each area; with moderate pressure and slow movement in the beginning to no pressure and well paced passes at the end. Again, under the brinkmann, I could see some very faint micro-marring. Some might consider the remaining defects negligible, as they were very difficult to spot under close inspection in sunlit conditions, however, like most, I prefer a "perfect" finish under any lighting. Could I have done anything to work the polish better or do I need to move on to a lighter polish such as M82? The car still came out pretty good, however, it was short of being near perfection.
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Re: Need help with M105 and M80
Instead of 82 you might get that final bit out by using a product like ColorX or M66 and then topping with an LSP.
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Re: Need help with M105 and M80
M105 does finish out very nicely, sometimes with some paint systems you won't see any swirls at all but not all paint systems, so it might just be paint related.Originally posted by milabfocker View Post
Same goes for M80, it will finish out with a DA most of the time really well but not always.
Usually if I run into any kind of light micro-marring I'll do a follow up with ColorX and a W-9006 finishing pad and work the ColorX or the M66 really well. Hopefully this will remove the micro-marring, not just fill it in.
If you can, give that a try...
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Re: Need help with M105 and M80
I appreciate the quick responses and will give the M66 a shot when I encouter similar problems in the future. Unfornately, the owner has already collected this vehicle. Even with the mentioned problems, I wasn't uncomfortable handing the vehicle over; it left looking much better. Here is a picture I took with my phone in the sun.
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Re: Need help with M105 and M80
With the finish still "having what most would see as negligable" flawing, are you taking into consideration your technique as well and not just product performance? Are you cleaning your pad on the fly? Are you using a fresh pad as needed (i.e. if pad becomes saturated with product)? Are you using too much/little product? Are you allowing the product to dry while working it in/working product too long?
Just something to consider, hope it helps.
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Re: Need help with M105 and M80
Technique was my first consideration. I adjusted and readjusted my technique many times in an effort to achieve desired results. I experimented with speed, pass rate, pressure, and product usage. Changing techniques did improve the finish; however, the faint micro-marring was left after appropriate adjustments in technique were made. Is there a certain technique you employ when using M80 which you believe might have benefited me in this situation? I appreciate your input and any advice would be appreciated.Comment
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Re: Need help with M105 and M80
I took these pics of the vehicle with my phone; hence the less than perfect quality.Comment
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Re: Need help with M105 and M80
You seem have a sound process in place for adjusting your tecnhiques and product / pad selection. As Mike pointed out, occasionally you will find a paint that just doesn't respond as well to the "go-to products" like 80. If you've tried progressively softer pads and less pressure with the PC and 80, then I think you need to try the other products suggested.
In addition to the suggestion to try 66, you might also try 151 with a finishing pad. I've have very good results on finicky paint with 151 and soft pads.Comment
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Re: Need help with M105 and M80
Only the area's wich I mentioned. I have had 80 dust off in the past because of working to long and/or too little product. I have also experienced that clean/fresh pads make a world of difference.Originally posted by milabfocker View Post
Question, was a test spot done on the car prior to doing the whole vehicle? Just anotherone of those things I've learned here. Perfecting your test spot will allow you to perfect the whole vehicle once as opposed to doing the whole vehicle, stepping back and seeing that it wasn't quite what you were trying to accomplish. Forgive me if my suggestions come across as elementary or "duh" even.
I just have had experience overlooking the little things 
and have learned to keep them in mind. 
But it seems as though you've got your ducks in a row, maybe as stated in the other comments, a follow up with 66 or color x could be in order. And as kerrinjeff stated (although I have yet to try it myself) I've seen a lot of good results with 151.Comment
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