Always Clay before DA or Rotary?

[jmitch8011]

I just wanted to know if you always clay before buffing. I think one post stated they reversed this process due to the paint condition. I will be getting my new toy(DA) next week if nothing crazy happens so I want to work on the spider marks and some nice marks in my car.

1- when using clay, do you have to use the whole bar or is it ok to break a smaller section off about the size of slightly used bar of soap to use?

I did my sisters car just learning and I could feel the difference once I clayed the surface.

2- when the clay is sliding very well can you still some how apply too much pressure?

3- since I will be using this on customer cars do I need to get the Quick Clay kit as well? I didn't know if this was less aggressive clay or should I be fine with what I have?

[RaskyR1]

Re: Always Clay before DA or Rotary?

I don't think many high volume shops have even heard of clay.

[jmitch8011]

Re: Always Clay before DA or Rotary?

from the post on the website I believe that is true -

[jmitch8011]

Re: Always Clay before DA or Rotary?

I also forgot to ask / do you use more than one piece of clay of you decide to do the entire vehicle?

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Always Clay before DA or Rotary?

I just wanted to know if you always clay before buffing.

The below is a key sentecne...

"Claying is the most effective way to remove above surface bonded contaminants"

The key word here is effective.

Other means, buffing by machine or working by hand with a paint cleaner will remove some above surface bonded contaminants but claying is the most effect way to remove all above bonded surface contaminants or at least as much as is possible.

A rotary buffer with a wool pad and a compound will also remove everything because it's going to take a lot of paint off fast. A DA Polisher however won't be very effective as it's too gentle and the foam buffing pad will tend to glide over above surface bonded contaminants versus kicking them off.

Make sense?

So...

Wash
Clay
Start your paint cleaning steps.

1- when using clay, do you have to use the whole bar or is it ok to break a smaller section off about the size of slightly used bar of soap to use?

Which clay bar to you have? If it's ours from our Professional Line then "Yes" you can break it up into multiple pieces.

2- when the clay is sliding very well can you still some how apply too much pressure?

Yes. You don't want to push too hard and scratch the paint. Focus on the task at hand, do what's necessary to get the job done then wipe off the residue and move on.

3- since I will be using this on customer cars do I need to get the Quick Clay kit as well? I didn't know if this was less aggressive clay or should I be fine with what I have?

Again, we need to know which clay you have?

Besides that you need to use a clay lube anytime you clay paint or the clay won't slide and glide.

Hope this helps...

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Always Clay before DA or Rotary?

I also forgot to ask / do you use more than one piece of clay of you decide to do the entire vehicle?

There is no set rule for how many pieces of clay you use to clay a car.

You use your judgment and common sense. When the clay looks too dirty to be used safely then you toss it and switch to new/good clay.

It's really not that complicated. You usually only have to clay horizontal surfaces but you should check by feeling the sides to be sure.

[jmitch8011]

Re: Always Clay before DA or Rotary?

I have the Professional Detailing Clay (Mild). I use piece about the size of a half used bar of dial soap. I used Final Inspection to keep it gliding. I had it catch once or twice trying to move too far outside of where I was working but it wiped right off with no scruff marks or scratches.

- as long as I can find a clear surface on the clay it is still good?
- Also when you beend the clay to show a clean surface are you really just folding it from the top down which would incase the dirty side inside the body of clay leaving the clean surface that is closest to your hand to contact the surface of the paint now. - I the blue disposable gloves when using clay.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Always Clay before DA or Rotary?

I have the Professional Detailing Clay (Mild). I use about piece about the size of a half used bar of dial soap.

Most people will cut our 200 gram bars in our Professional Line into 4 pieces.

You need enough to make a small patty of clay, kind of like a small pancake.

[jmitch8011]

Re: Always Clay before DA or Rotary?

Ok, I will do that when I get home. I was leaving the unbroken piece in the container with the plastic still on it so I wouldn't get anything from the used clay on it.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Always Clay before DA or Rotary?

Lots of people store there working clay in a Zip-Lock Baggie and spray a little Quik Detailer into the baggie to help keep the clay from sticking to the plastic.

[jmitch8011]

Re: Always Clay before DA or Rotary?

cool thanks a lot! - one question not sure it's just me but do you know why #34 helps this clay glide better then using UQD? I tried UQD first and the clay seemed to stick but once I started #34 it was like ice.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Always Clay before DA or Rotary?

Meguiar's doesn't recommend using UQD for a clay lube. It's more expensive compared to Quik Detailer and M34 so not sure why you would want to anyway?

Remember, claying is actually a very simple procedure, there's no reason to complicate it.

Clay the paint and move on to the next steps.

[jmitch8011]

Re: Always Clay before DA or Rotary?

ok, thanks for all the help! I haven't used UQD since but I guess I had it mixed up with QD as being similar.

[ZoranC]

Re: Always Clay before DA or Rotary?

I think one post stated they reversed this process due to the paint condition.

IIRC you are correct and that was in post by Mike Phillips on use of rotary, paint was in very bad condition so rotary+wool was used to do quick knock down of impurities as using clay would be very inefficient.

[Lydia]

Re: Always Clay before DA or Rotary?

IIRC you are correct and that was in post by Mike Phillips on use of rotary, paint was in very bad condition so rotary+wool was used to do quick knock down of impurities as using clay would be very inefficient.

I've also had to do that before too on a severly oxidized car. The clay just loaded up with dead paint really quickly, so I had to buff it first.