Need help on Meg products

[OriginalARod]

Hello everyone,

I am a newbie to the paint care scene. I need some help on selecting products for my project. The car is an 1988 BMW 635. The paint is simple base coat, white. One "problem" i have to fix is that the front clip of the car has been resprayed and has orange peel while the rest of the car has oxidized paint.

So would you guys please help me select the products I need to get the job done and give a brief description of the necessary steps? Meguiars has a bewildering (to me) array of products...makes my head hurt just thinking about all the possible combinations.

I believe I must sand down the orange peel to get the car to look somewhat consistent, so I was planning on purchasing an orbital buffer as well.

O yeah, and I have already started claying the car with ultra quick detailer.

Thanks in advance.

[Derrick]

Re: Need help on Meg products

Welcome to MOL. Well since you are a newbie into the detailing scene i will recommend you not get into the wet sanding job and leave this work to a professional or until you have experience in wet sanding and using a rotary buffer. If you were to get an orbital buffer you would be waisting your time because you will never be able to remove sanding marks with an orbital buffer or even some light scratches for that matter. Even the next step up being a DA polisher still does not have the power to remove sanding marks. If you are going to invest in some products to do this your self i will recommend getting a DA polisher instead of an orbital buffer only because you will have a very hard time trying to remove any paint defects with an orbital. Once you have a DA i would invest in plenty of W8006 polishing pads and W9006 finishing pads. With a simple single stage paint many people have had alot of success with just using #80 which is an awesome all around product to have in your arsenal. I would also get some #83 just in case but #80 should be able to take care of the oxidation and single stage paints are usually alot easier to work on. But i will still recommend you leave the front bumper to a professional because wet sanding is a very dangerous process and needs to be followed with a rotary buffer which also needs to be handled by a professional or at least someone with experience in the machine before trying to tackle this project. Just to ask, what is ultra quick detailer? Is it basically just Quick Detailer just made by another company or are you referring to Ultimate Quick Detailer? If you were referring to Ultimate Quick Detailer i would just like to add that UQD is not recommended for claying due to the fact that it is to slick and makes it difficult for the claybar to properly remove all contaminants

[yalerd]

Re: Need help on Meg products

Hi and welcome to Meguiar's Online!

Read the following links for general knowledge.
Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle
Rotary vs PC vs Regular Orbital Buffer

Knowing that your car is SS and thinking that you'll get a DA Polisher then I would suggest getting #80 Speed Glaze, #83 Dual Action Cleaner Polisher, #7 Car Show Glaze and a high quality wax could be Meguiar's NXT 2.0

Your process should look like this
Wash
Dry
Clay
#83/#80 (test with #80 since it's less aggressive and see how effective it removes the oxidation)
#7 Show Car Glaze
Wax

It would be a GREAT idea for your to get this DVD

Regarding the clear coat part of the car, it's best for you to just leave this like it is since wet sanding requires lots of experience and knowledge.

Hope this helps

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Need help on Meg products

Welcome to Meguiar's Online!

Hello everyone,

I believe I must sand down the orange peel to get the car to look somewhat consistent, so I was planning on purchasing an orbital buffer as well.

Like Derrik pointed out, removing orange peel through wet-sanding is an advanced procedure that will require a rotary buffer. You shouldn't really try to learn how to do it on something that's important to you.

Just to point out, wet-sanding is actually pretty easing, that's putting the scratches into the paint, it's the buffing out the sanding marks that can get kind of difficult.

If your car's paint is a single stage white paint, then at least from my own experience, after this paint is dried and cured it is going to be extremely hard and this mean it's going to be extremely hard to remove sanding marks out of it.

Maybe since your new a good place to start would be with Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle and get the overall car into great shape and as you reach for this goal do some reading on this forum about the wet-sanding process and then decide if you want to continue to pursue this for your car.

Everyone that joins this forum really needs to read through this to bring themselves up to speed on the products, procedures and lingo.


Meguiar's 5-Step Paint Care Cycle


Then to get your car's paint in overall good to great shape, read through this and note the products used and the order in which they were used.


How To Remove Swirls By Hand

O yeah, and I have already started claying the car with ultra quick detailer.

Is this a Meguiar's product? We offer a product called Ultimate Quik Detailer as well as our traditional Quik Detailer, but not Ultra Quick Detailer.

If you meant to say Ultimate Quik Detailer then we don't recommend this as a clay lube. Also, it doesn't come in a kit with the clay? Guess you could be getting the clay from another source but just to note we recommend our Quik Detailer for a clay lube.

Hope that helps...

[OriginalARod]

Re: Need help on Meg products

Guys,

Sorry I'm late with the response, it's been a very busy few days for me. Any way, thanks a bunch for the info. I did some reading on the forum and I have read the 5 steps. I buy it, but my question was what is the best product for my situation if i want to polish for example. That thread tells you what the steps should be but gives no info on what product to use. Probably because each case is different. But I think I got it from Yalerd.
I'll try the #80 first.

I guess for now I will not wet sand my car. I will practice on something else.

On the clay, yes I bought the clay separate. I thought if quick detailer was good then ultimate was even better. Guess I was wrong. I'll go get some quick detailer. BTW, why is ultimate not recommended? The couple of places I have used it look pretty good.

Thanks again guys. Look forward to learning more from everyone here.

[Derrick]

Re: Need help on Meg products

On the clay, yes I bought the clay separate. I thought if quick detailer was good then ultimate was even better. Guess I was wrong. I'll go get some quick detailer. BTW, why is ultimate not recommended? The couple of places I have used it look pretty good.

UQD is not recommended for claying because it can be to slick making it difficult for the clay to be able to pick up all the contaminants

[Murr1525]

Re: Need help on Meg products

Its also a lot more expensive than what you need. best ot buy the regular cheaper stuff for claying, since the cleaning proces ,etc will just remove the Ultimate part.

[Mike Phillips]

Re: Need help on Meg products

UQD is not recommended for claying because it can be to slick making it difficult for the clay to be able to pick up all the contaminants

Partly correct, the reason Meguiar's doesn't recommend using UQD as a clay lube is because the lubricity or slickness hinders claying from abrading which is how clay removes above surface bonded contaminants. Detailing clay can pull or pick some particles off the paint but the idea behind how clay works is akin to sandpaper in that it will abrade anything sitting on top of the surface off the paint. Because clay is tacky, the abraded particles stick to the clay and this is why you need to re-knead the clay to expose a fresh side and at some point the clay will become so loaded with removed contaminants that you'll want to throw it away and start using new clay.

Its also a lot more expensive than what you need. best to buy the regular cheaper stuff for claying, since the cleaning process ,etc will just remove the Ultimate part.

This is the common sense approach, Quik Detailer has been around longer than Detailing clay. Quik Detailer was introduced in 1981 and at that time was called Trigger Wash.






Near as we can remember, detailing clay was introduced to the U.S. market in or around 1990, even now it's still not considered a mainstream product. We can testify that many people still don't know what detailing clay is, why to use it, how to use it or when to use it based upon all the car enthusiasts that attend our classes as one of the things we do in all our classes is ask with a show of hands how many people have never used detailing clay and the runs between 70% of the class to 30% of the class.

So while online forum enthusiasts all know about detailing clay, the masses still do not.

The suggested retail price for Quik Detailer is $6.49, the suggested retail price for UQD is $9.99

Because Quik Detailer works great for claying and cost less than UQD it only makes common sense to use this as your clay lube and save the UQD for adding the finishing touch to your car's paint to maximize gloss, slickness and shine.

[Derrick]

Re: Need help on Meg products

Partly correct, the reason Meguiar's doesn't recommend using UQD as a clay lube is because the lubricity or slickness hinders claying from abrading which is how clay removes above surface bonded contaminants. Detailing clay can pull or pick some particles off the paint but the idea behind how clay works is akin to sandpaper in that it will abrade anything sitting on top of the surface off the paint. Because clay is tacky, the abraded particles stick to the clay and this is why you need to re-knead the clay to expose a fresh side and at some point the clay will become so loaded with removed contaminants that you'll want to throw it away and start using new clay.

Thats what i meant, i was just trying to keep it quick and simple