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I have an 02 jetta with light swirls and scratches. I have used 83 with an orange cutting pad but im not having great results. I did the scratch test so im sure these should come out. Ive tried a bunch or techniques with not much luck. No doubt it is better then what it was but some large light scratches arent coming out. I know VW clear is hard so does anyone have any suggestions?? Id like to use the products I have and not spend more money. But if I have to id be willing to try another type of pad or better megs. product if you think that will help. Thanks
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Re: Help with 83 & 80 on a VW!
What brand pads are you using? What machine are you using? DA or rotary? I ask these only because Meguiar's does not recommend a cutting pad with the da/g-100 polisher. Give a Meg's 8006 pad a try. I have removed some fairly haevy scratches with it using a g-100 and 83. If you are using a da/g-100 Meg's recommends 83 as the strongest product to use with it. Products stronger than 83 are Meg's compounds and are a rotary only situation. Hope this helps out.Originally posted by technomafia View Post
Andrew2013 Race Red F-150 SCREW -
Re: Help with 83 & 80 on a VW!
hiya
before i suggest anything my confession is i have never corrected a VAG car yet.
I have made the presumption you are working by DA (G220 for e.g.)
just check that the #83 with cutting pad isnt leaving it own marks behind (being a cutting pad) these could be improved upon via a less agressive approach, say
#83 and polishing pad,
#80 and polishing pad,
A wax via a finishing pad could be a suggestion
Keep the speed down towards the end of buffing to burnish the finish, if needs be you can try up to top speed 6 on the DA (its not reccomended as my pads edges came away from the velcro.
Hope this helps
ChristianComment
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Re: Help with 83 & 80 on a VW!
What are you working with? If your using a PC or G100 the deeper scratches may require the power of a rotary.Originally posted by technomafia View PostComment
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Re: Help with 83 & 80 on a VW!
Read through the below article copied from
See if you can find something you're doing wrong that is listed below and then read the remedy. Also read the lower portion where it talks about the limits of a tool with a clutch.
Tips & Techniques for using the G110, G100, G220 and the PC Dual Action Polisher
(These are all similar tools)
After teaching hundreds of classes here at Meguiar's, there are some common mistakes most people make when trying to remove swirls and scratches with a dual action polisher. Most of them have to do with technique.
Here's a list of the most common problems- Trying to work too large of an area at one time
- Move the polisher too fast over the surface
- Too low of speed setting for removing swirls
- Too little pressure on the head of the unit
- Too much pressure on the head of the unit so the pad quits rotating
- Not keeping the pad flat while working your product
- Too much product, too little product
- Not cleaning the pad often enough
- Shrink your work area down, the harder the paint the smaller the area you can work. The average area should be and average of about 16" by 16" up to 20" by 20" or so. You have to do some experimenting, (called a Test Spot), to find out how easy or how hard the defects are coming out of your car's paint system and then adjust your work area to the results of your Test Spot.
- For removing defects out of the paint you want to use what we call a Slow Arm Speed. It's really easy to move the polisher too quickly because the sound of the motor spinning fast has a psychological effect to for some reason want to make people move the polisher fast. Also the way most people think is that, "If I move the polisher quickly, I'll get done faster", but it doesn't work that way.
- When first starting out many people are scared of burning or swirling their paint, so they take the safe route of running the polisher at too low of a speed setting, again... this won't work. The action of the polisher is already g-e-n-t-l-e, you need the speed and specifically the pad rotating over the paint as well as the combination of time, (slow arm speed), together with the diminishing abrasives, the foam type, and the pressure to remove small particles of paint which is how your remove below surface defects like swirls or scratches. It's a leveling process that's somewhat difficult because the tool is safe/gentle while in most cases, modern clear coat paints are harder than traditional single stage paints and this makes them hard to work on. This is also why people get frustrated, they don't understand paint technology, all they know is their paint swirls easy and getting the swirls out is difficult and thus frustrating.
- For the same reason as stated in #3, people are scared, or perhaps a better word is apprehensive, to apply too much pressure and the result of too little pressure is no paint is removed thus no swirls are removed.
- Just the opposite of item #4, people think that by pushing harder on the polisher they can work faster and be more aggressive, but the truth is the clutch in the tool is a safety mechanism to prevent burning and will cause the pad to stop rotating, thus less cleaning or abrading action and once in a while this will lead a person to then post on the forum something like this, "Hey my pad doesn't rotate". There needs to be a balance of enough pressure to remove defects and keep the pad rotating but yet not too much pressure as to stop the rotating action. This balance is affected by a lot of things, things like type of chemical, some chemicals provide more lubrication and the pad will spin easier, curved surfaces or any raise in body lines will tend to stop the pad from rotating. This is where experience on how to address these areas comes into play or you do the best you can and move on. It's not a perfect tool, nor a perfect system, but it's almost always better than working/cleaning by hand.
- Applying pressure in such a way as to put too much pressure to one side of the pad will cause it to stop rotating and thus decrease cleaning ability.
- Too much product over lubricates the surface and this won't allow the diminishing abrasives to do their job plus it will increase the potential for messy splatter as well as cause pad saturation. Too little product will keep the pad from rotating due to no lubrication and there won't be enough diminishing abrasives to do any work. Again it's a balance that comes with experience, or another way of saying this would be it's a balance that comes with hours of buffing out a car to learn what to do and what not to do. Information like what you're reading here is just an edge to decrease your learning curve. Hope this is helping.
- Most people don't clean their pad often enough and most of the time the reason for this is because they don't know they're supposed to clean their pad often and they don't know how to clean their pad. Again, that's why this forum is here to help you with both of these things. You should clean your pad after every application of product or every other application of product, your choice, most of the time cleaning your pad after every other application of product works pretty well. It enables you to work clean and enables the foam pad, the polisher and the next application of fresh product too all work effectively. How to clean your pad will be addressed below sooner versus later, but not at the time of this posting. (Sorry, I'm behind a keyboard, not a video camera
"That's what I'm doing wrong"
The dual action polisher is a gentle tool, that's why people like it. People are afraid of machines because they're worried they're going to either instill swirls or burn through the paint. When they learn that this is pretty hard to do with this machine, so after enough research or after watching a demonstration they learn to trust it and try it.
Summary: People like the dual action polisher because it's oscillating action is safe and gentle to the surface.
Now follow me on this...
For the same reason people love the dual action polisher, (it's safe and gentle), a segment of people get frustrated with it because it won't remove all defects all the time. It won't tackle serious or deep defects quickly and easily. It won't always work on really hard paints. So for the same reason people love this tool, they also hate it, they just don't know why. Maybe after reading this post they will understand.
This is the reason this thread is so widely read and you can learn a lot from it if you'll only take the time to read through it.
PC + 83 not "Cutting" it! - The Limits of the Dual Action Polisher
Even the pictures of the paint on the white truck on the first page and the story behind it are powerful and REAL (This writer took them and did the testing with both the G100/PC and the RB).
When the G100/PC with a strong cleaner/polish like M83 and our W-8006 polishing pad doesn't remove the defects to your satisfaction or within an acceptable time limit the answer is not to get more aggressive with a more aggressive pad or chemical or both, the answer is to switch to a more powerful machine like the rotary buffer and or take the car to a Pro who knows how to use a rotary buffer, or learn to live with the defects.
Hope this helps...
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Re: Help with 83 & 80 on a VW!
sorry i forgot to mention im useing a PC7424 which is think is the same at the g100. with lake country pads. I know megs. wants u to use theres but LC pads are a well respected brand. I spread the product on at 3 speed. then boost it up to 5-6 and work it. Ive done as much as 3 passes with no improvement.Comment
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Re: Help with 83 & 80 on a VW!
How large of an area are you trying to work? I would suggest try working a smaller area. like 16x16 or if need be 12x12. If after that you are getting the same results you may need a rotary buffer to get you cars paint to where you want it.
Andrew2013 Race Red F-150 SCREWComment
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Re: Help with 83 & 80 on a VW!
"find something you like and use it"Originally posted by technomafia View Post
That's what we always say. We introduced the idea of buffing with foam in 1965 and it's good to see a few companies have jumped on our idea and duplicated it in their own way.
Have you read the article we posted and double checked what your doing to the most common mistakes people make when using a tool like this?Originally posted by technomafia View Post
It' likely you just need to tweak your technique....
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Re: Help with 83 & 80 on a VW!
I don't think VW clear is hard at all, in fact my mom's 2001 Golf was the easiest paint I've ever worked with! I used #80 and a white LC polishing pad and in just one pass I got out almost all of the scratches! Even some of the deeper ones that I thought would take 2 or 3 passes came out on the first go! And her car was never repainted, it's the original VW paint. (dark green too)Originally posted by technomafia View Post2018 Torch Red CorvetteComment
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Re: Help with 83 & 80 on a VW!
i have a simmular post out there with a 04 jetta, called im doin something wrong. my findings are the CC id super hard and an 83 with several passes made it look a little better but not where i wanted it i used eerything up to and including an #83 with a 7006 and a #4 and 7006 with min results, with good tech i thinkComment
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